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Old July 28th, 2008, 07:15 AM   #41
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Remote oil filter set up. OUT from the motor, IN to the filter, OUT from the filter IN to the motor.
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Old July 28th, 2008, 07:16 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by bigblockford79 View Post
I would like to Retract this part of my reply, It appears that I was having a momentary lapse of sanity. Sorry for offending anyone, and I will be sure to make a point to proof read my posts next time, to remove an idiocies.

Thanks
I'll give you credit, that took some stones to admit that.
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Old July 28th, 2008, 11:53 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Nuggets View Post
Remote oil filter set up. OUT from the motor, IN to the filter, OUT from the filter IN to the motor.
i eventually figured that out after thinking about how the oil HAS to cycle through..and realized my setup was wrong. Give me a next time.
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Old July 29th, 2008, 01:43 AM   #44
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hows the bottom end of the motor look?
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Old July 29th, 2008, 06:57 PM   #45
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hows the bottom end of the motor look?
looks great. The motor is in the truck now, just hooking everything up tonight and tomorrow.
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Old July 30th, 2008, 12:52 PM   #46
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does it run now??
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Old July 30th, 2008, 09:59 PM   #47
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does it run now??
yes i fixed it, runs like a top. I need to richen up my carb cuz the plugs are really white. It has a flat spot between 1,000 and 2,000 rpm , im thinking its too lean and needs more fuel. Its a strong engine and im almost positive it has a cam in it, it revs up quick after the flat spot. Its good oil pressure now right when i start it up it goes up to 50psi which is what i heard is good anywhere between 40-60 on a 302.

AND the faukin remote oil filter keeps leaking..it looks like its leaking where the barb fittings come out by the engine, the IN and Out. I got rubber hoses on them with strong hoseclamps..but it always leaks.
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Old July 30th, 2008, 10:01 PM   #48
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sweet

those oil filter relocators are tricky eh
i never really got them though, does the oil filter in the stock spot not clear a crossmember or something.
use some sort of sealant, JB weld or something?? idk if that would work or not.
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Old July 30th, 2008, 10:06 PM   #49
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sweet

those oil filter relocators are tricky eh
i never really got them though, does the oil filter in the stock spot not clear a crossmember or something.
use some sort of sealant, JB weld or something?? idk if that would work or not.
its quite common for people to hook them up wrong..so far everyone that ive talked to that has done the v8 swap has hooked em up wrong the first try. As far as the leak i just think there is too much oil pressure for the hose clamps and rubber lines to withstand..i would like to get stainless braided. Ill talk to ppl and see how they do it cuz apparently my way is a FAIL
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Old July 30th, 2008, 10:13 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by 88mudder View Post
its quite common for people to hook them up wrong..so far everyone that ive talked to that has done the v8 swap has hooked em up wrong the first try. As far as the leak i just think there is too much oil pressure for the hose clamps and rubber lines to withstand..i would like to get stainless braided. Ill talk to ppl and see how they do it cuz apparently my way is a FAIL

i can understand that, try so much and something always goes wrong.
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Old July 30th, 2008, 10:41 PM   #51
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Cool you got it running . . . I'd richen the carb for sure. Holley? If that's the case, I'd buy a full jet kit, they are like $50. The way to check for richness is to run it wide open loaded, and then check the plugs . . . if lean, yeah definitely jet up.

As for your stumble, if it's coming off idle you likely need a bigger or faster accelerator pump shot. with the engine off, looking down at the carb smack the throttle open. If the squirters shoot all their load really quick you may need a larger accelerator pump . . . of they piss for a few seconds, you probably need a bigger nozzle. They are sold in all different sizes. A larger nozzle will obviously flow more fuel faster . . . Holley's website is good info.

if you've got an Edelbrock or other style . . . well then I don't have specific directions, but the principles are the same.

Ad for your leaky hose clamps; what kind of hose are you using? I'm just using clamps on my setup, but the hose is nice thick oil hose and really sharp barbs . . .
As for the braided stainless, I really don't know the cost of it necessarily, but you could look into regular hydraulic hose. Low pressure like that (0-100psi) is generally pretty cheap. Look for a local hose and rubber shop. They will probably sell you just whatever lengths you want for pretty cheap. Then you'll have no more leakys:
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Old July 30th, 2008, 10:49 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by merr6267 View Post
Cool you got it running . . . I'd richen the carb for sure. Holley? If that's the case, I'd buy a full jet kit, they are like $50. The way to check for richness is to run it wide open loaded, and then check the plugs . . . if lean, yeah definitely jet up.

As for your stumble, if it's coming off idle you likely need a bigger or faster accelerator pump shot. with the engine off, looking down at the carb smack the throttle open. If the squirters shoot all their load really quick you may need a larger accelerator pump . . . of they piss for a few seconds, you probably need a bigger nozzle. They are sold in all different sizes. A larger nozzle will obviously flow more fuel faster . . . Holley's website is good info.

if you've got an Edelbrock or other style . . . well then I don't have specific directions, but the principles are the same.

Ad for your leaky hose clamps; what kind of hose are you using? I'm just using clamps on my setup, but the hose is nice thick oil hose and really sharp barbs . . .
As for the braided stainless, I really don't know the cost of it necessarily, but you could look into regular hydraulic hose. Low pressure like that (0-100psi) is generally pretty cheap. Look for a local hose and rubber shop. They will probably sell you just whatever lengths you want for pretty cheap. Then you'll have no more leakys:
i have an Edelbrock with a calibration kit and I jetted it 1 stage lean and now its too lean. Im gonna bring the carb back to factory settings and it should richen back up a bit. It idles right at 650. I slowly press the gas it the rpm rises normally and smooth up to 1,000 , then from there up to 2 grand it isnt smooth at all..stumbles. After 2 grand its normal and smoothens right out, and it revs up GREAT, i can get it to redline now

ill look more into my hose leaks. The barbs i got are old and not sharp..ill replace those and get some hose that fits tighter around, and good new hose clamps for sure.

Thx for the help
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Old July 30th, 2008, 11:21 PM   #53
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when you're getting new clamps, go to a good parts store, (CarQuest, NAPA, AutoValue) and instead of regular worm gear clamps ask for good high pressure clamps. I don't know what they are called, but they are a band clamp that uses a screw to pull two flanges together. They can get a lot tighter than a worm gear type clamp.

As for the stumbling at 1000-3000 it may be timing related . . . of course I don't know how your set-up is.

I know that on my Jeep it will advance timing too far without a load on the engine because of all the vacuum advance combined with the mechanical . . . when the engine is loaded (no vacuum) the vac advance is not operational and the thing is smooth as glass. I've toyed with losing the vac advance entirely, but have kept it due to some street driving.

Sounds like you got it all figured out. have fun.

Phill
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Old July 30th, 2008, 11:42 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merr6267 View Post
when you're getting new clamps, go to a good parts store, (CarQuest, NAPA, AutoValue) and instead of regular worm gear clamps ask for good high pressure clamps. I don't know what they are called, but they are a band clamp that uses a screw to pull two flanges together. They can get a lot tighter than a worm gear type clamp.

As for the stumbling at 1000-3000 it may be timing related . . . of course I don't know how your set-up is.

I know that on my Jeep it will advance timing too far without a load on the engine because of all the vacuum advance combined with the mechanical . . . when the engine is loaded (no vacuum) the vac advance is not operational and the thing is smooth as glass. I've toyed with losing the vac advance entirely, but have kept it due to some street driving.

Sounds like you got it all figured out. have fun.

Phill
thx for the tips. I will play with the timing some more. Im really whipped today..because i put the 302 in the truck last night/today..and had to hook everything else up..put fluids in the truck..then at first it wouldnt start so i went around the horn with the dist and i got the rotor right on.
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