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Old July 26th, 2008, 04:19 PM   #21
blownexploder94
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Originally Posted by bigblockford79 View Post
Since when do bearings have ANYTHING to do with oil pressure. Have eve even had a Ford SB apart (or any engine for that matter)? The oil pump is a completely separate compenent ran by the Cam gear through the distibutor shaft.

I would pull the distibutor out and check to see if the hex shaft that goes from the dist. shaft to the oil pump isn't damaged. If that all looks good (not Stripped or broke) Then drain the oil and then pull the pan to access the oil pump itself and change it out for a new one. You will also need to replace the oil pump shaft at the same time and would suggest buying the hardened one from arp for longevity.

Another thing before you tear anything else apart. How are you checking oil pressure. Is it an existing electrical guage in your dash our do you have a mechanical guage with a line from the engine to the back of the guage. If you have the electric guage yet you should replace it with a mechanical one that will bve more accurate and have graduated readings instead of L or H. If you already have a mechanical guage are you sure that is isn't kinked, pinched, or blocked off by some debris, prohibiting any flow getting to the gauge itself.

One last thing, When you had the head off to replace the gasket did you check it for warp? Most of the time when a normally aspirated engine with a lower compression ratio developes a head gasket leak it is due to a warped head. You may need to get the heads milled in the future, and you should keep a close eye on your oil level/quality to make sure you aren't leaking through the head again.

Good Luck
WTF? Thats all I have to say to that response
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Old July 26th, 2008, 04:45 PM   #22
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took the oil pump out and tested it, works fine. The screen is clean and pickup tube is not clogged. The whole bottom end looks clean , and i made sure the pump is being driven by rotating the engine. I took a look at the cam since i could see it through the bottom, spun the motor and no lobed or anything are broke off. Im going to replace the pump while i have the pan off.

This engine never had a engine oil dipstik, prevuous owner broke it. The oil pan is a 5 qt dual sump so i assumed 5 quart..well it had more like 5.5-6 , i added more just to be sure but i hope i didnt overfill it..maybe this could have been my problem? I do know if its overfilled the oil pressure can be affected.

Next step is to put the pan back on and look at the upper end of the motor. Im thinking the lifters might be collapsed or clogged. What i want to do is get a cam and lifter set, and swap on my 289 heads since i know they worked well and a benefit of better valve springs and adjustable rockers.

Is this a good plan?

Last edited by 88mudder; July 26th, 2008 at 05:59 PM.
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Old July 26th, 2008, 08:01 PM   #23
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took the intake off and lifters are out. None are collapsed, but i can shake every lifter and i can hear em tapping and they dont drip any oil out of them, is this a sign that oil isnt getting to them?
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Old July 26th, 2008, 08:08 PM   #24
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how do the cam lobes look and bottom of the lifters any of them wiped out worn down
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Old July 26th, 2008, 08:24 PM   #25
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how do the cam lobes look and bottom of the lifters any of them wiped out worn down
all the lifters are in great shape and not worn out. The cam is still in the engine so its kinda hard to evaluate it, but from what i can see every lobe is still pointed and not rounded out or wiped.
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Old July 26th, 2008, 11:14 PM   #26
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Did you check your main and rod bearings? If you see copper you're all done. If you still have babbet left on the bearings I would plastigage everything and see whats up.
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Old July 27th, 2008, 12:13 PM   #27
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ok i know what u did wrong.. first off all that motor ran like new.. i shoulda never sold it, u have your oil filter relocator lines hooked up backwarks.. which equals no oil pressure.. ive done it before when i put 302 into my 2nd bronco... depending on how long uve run it, u might have fucked up a good motor..
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Old July 27th, 2008, 12:17 PM   #28
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ok i know what u did wrong.. first off all that motor ran like new.. i shoulda never sold it, u have your oil filter relocator lines hooked up backwarks.. which equals no oil pressure.. ive done it before when i put 302 into my 2nd bronco... depending on how long uve run it, u might have fucked up a good motor..
i got em hooked up right. The thing that screws to the motor has I and O and the filter relocator has the I and O and i ran the lines and matched them up.
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Old July 27th, 2008, 01:03 PM   #29
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ok check the block and haed oil passage ways in it they choled be pluggled also check the oil coolerit chould also be pluged or leak oil psi
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Old July 27th, 2008, 06:46 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by bigblockford79 View Post
Since when do bearings have ANYTHING to do with oil pressure. Have eve even had a Ford SB apart (or any engine for that matter)? The oil pump is a completely separate compenent ran by the Cam gear through the distibutor shaft.

I would like to Retract this part of my reply, It appears that I was having a momentary lapse of sanity. Sorry for offending anyone, and I will be sure to make a point to proof read my posts next time, to remove an idiocies.

Thanks
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Old July 27th, 2008, 08:51 PM   #31
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Sally was right, hooked up the remote filter wrong. No internal damage happened. Now i just gotta put the motor back in.
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Old July 27th, 2008, 09:23 PM   #32
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lol well now its going to run tits man
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Old July 27th, 2008, 09:59 PM   #33
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Sally was right, hooked up the remote filter wrong. No internal damage happened. Now i just gotta put the motor back in.

No harm, no foul.
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Old July 27th, 2008, 10:26 PM   #34
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No harm, no foul.
We did get to find out that bigblockford79 does not know what he is talking about.
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Old July 27th, 2008, 11:34 PM   #35
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lolz . . . if you would have mentioned that you had hooked up an external filter someone would have likely been able to tell you to check it out. Check your bearings before you throw it back in. If it was just unloaded revving you did, you may not have killed the crank, but you probably did hurt the bearings . . . check 'em and hopefully you'll only need to replace the bearings . . .

Good luck, I also have hooked up the oil hoses incorrectly too . . . Iran the oil pump with a drill before I hooked it up though, and made sure I had oil flow . . . easy enough mistake.
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Old July 27th, 2008, 11:50 PM   #36
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lolz . . . if you would have mentioned that you had hooked up an external filter someone would have likely been able to tell you to check it out. Check your bearings before you throw it back in. If it was just unloaded revving you did, you may not have killed the crank, but you probably did hurt the bearings . . . check 'em and hopefully you'll only need to replace the bearings . . .

Good luck, I also have hooked up the oil hoses incorrectly too . . . Iran the oil pump with a drill before I hooked it up though, and made sure I had oil flow . . . easy enough mistake.
are u talking about the crank and cam bearings?
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Old July 28th, 2008, 12:04 AM   #37
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Sally was right, hooked up the remote filter wrong. No internal damage happened. Now i just gotta put the motor back in.
ouch, alot work and trouble just to find that out.
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Old July 28th, 2008, 12:28 AM   #38
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the remote filter should be installed like this am i correct? Outlet to Inlet and Outlet to Inlet? Outlet out the motor...inlet into the filter...outlet out the filter...inlet to the motor?? Before i had it Outlet out the motor..outlet out the filter..inlet into the filter..inlet to the motor..LOL.
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Old July 28th, 2008, 12:42 AM   #39
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yup u had it backwards, yes check both the crank bearings and the cam bearings.
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Old July 28th, 2008, 12:44 AM   #40
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Yes, your second description sounds right. Follow the oil flow path.

If you want to make sure, and avoid any more damage . . . pull the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill or a screwdriver . . . I think the ford has a hex drive shaft, you may need to cut up an allen wrench that'll fit and turn the oil pump to see if you have oil flow. Start at the outlet of the engine and follow it up through the filter and back into the engine . . . the reason it was not flowing when you had it backwards, is that the filter has an anti-drainback valve in it, which prevents the oil from traveling the wrong way in the filter.

Now, since you ran it with no pressure you probably did some damage to your bearings . . . probably mostly your crank and rod bearings. With the lifters deflated the cam likely didn't have much load on it. I'd check the bearings . . . cheaper to replace now rather than when you have a hole in your block from a thrown rod . . .

When you start it you're gonna want to prime the oil system too. Use your drill setup like I described and pump the thing until you have oil coming out of all the pushrods. Yes, take the valve covers off and look. You can rotate the engine by hand during priming to uncover the oil holes in the lifters and inflate them as well.

Then you just have to stab the dizzy back in and fire it up . . . And re-time it of course.

you might want to change the oil and filter really quick after too . . . all that metal that ground off the stuff is not exactly good to leave in there . . .

Also, run a good filter . . . not a Fram . . .
Wix/NAPA/CarQuest are all the same, and good filters. Being a Ford, I think you're needing a 51515 (WIX) or 1515, (NAPA) not sure what nomenclature CarQuest uses . . . Of course, your filter adapter might use any filter, but my filter kit came with Ford size bushings anyway . . .

Last edited by merr6267; July 28th, 2008 at 12:50 AM.
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