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Old July 24th, 2008, 11:52 AM   #1
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Default 302 no oil pressure

i bought this engine used off a guy on this site and the damn thing has no oil pressure. It starts right up but the damn valvetrain is noisy as hell and no power. Something is effed up inside so im pulling the motor now and tearing it apart. Any tips on what to look for inside once i pull the pan off?
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Old July 24th, 2008, 11:53 AM   #2
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cooper on the crank bearings or lack their of
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Old July 24th, 2008, 11:57 AM   #3
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cooper on the crank bearings or lack their of
thanks. Im going to have to rebuild this thing. Im never trusting anybody when buying used engines no more..this guy still owes me money and wont send it.
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Old July 24th, 2008, 04:30 PM   #4
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motor is almost out, just gotta unbolt the motor mounts and bellhousing bolts.
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Old July 25th, 2008, 01:16 AM   #5
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are you talking about the 302 sally sold you?
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Old July 25th, 2008, 07:47 AM   #6
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yes he is
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Old July 25th, 2008, 08:09 AM   #7
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The oil pumps are a common problem on those motors.
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Old July 25th, 2008, 10:04 AM   #8
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are you talking about the 302 sally sold you?
yeah.
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Old July 25th, 2008, 10:23 AM   #9
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man that thing ran tits the whole time he had it and he got it off a guy on here to
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Old July 25th, 2008, 12:23 PM   #10
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The oil pumps are a common problem on those motors.
since when is a 302 oil pump a common problem?
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Old July 25th, 2008, 02:56 PM   #11
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man that thing ran tits the whole time he had it and he got it off a guy on here to
idk why it broke. All i did was replace a head gasket, intake manifold gasket, swapped the carb to 4bbl, and a new power steering pump, 5 quarts of oil. Its always had valvetrain tap..all the valves barely open when its running. I just got the engine out onto the stand and going to look at it tomorrow nite. Im really pissed at this thing because its been in and out of the truck 3 times.
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Old July 25th, 2008, 09:41 PM   #12
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damn i would be pissed off to
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Old July 25th, 2008, 11:42 PM   #13
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i did notice the EGR port on the back of the motor wasnt plugged all the way. Would this cause the oil pressure to drop?
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Old July 25th, 2008, 11:47 PM   #14
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if the egr wasn't plugged and open, then you would leak exhaust and or vacumn not loose oil pressure
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Old July 25th, 2008, 11:55 PM   #15
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idk why it broke. All i did was replace a head gasket, intake manifold gasket, swapped the carb to 4bbl, and a new power steering pump, 5 quarts of oil. Its always had valvetrain tap..all the valves barely open when its running. I just got the engine out onto the stand and going to look at it tomorrow nite. Im really pissed at this thing because its been in and out of the truck 3 times.
did coolant get in the oil from the bad head gasket, if so coolant will take out bearings fast...hence no oil pressure
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Old July 26th, 2008, 12:11 AM   #16
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did coolant get in the oil from the bad head gasket, if so coolant will take out bearings fast...hence no oil pressure
i think your right. The headgasket was blown as well as the intake mainfold gasket. This had to of made a coolant leak which is prolly why coolant is mixed with my oil. Looks like im getting a new motor..or rebuilding this thing.

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Old July 26th, 2008, 10:06 AM   #17
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did coolant get in the oil from the bad head gasket, if so coolant will take out bearings fast...hence no oil pressure
Since when do bearings have ANYTHING to do with oil pressure. Have eve even had a Ford SB apart (or any engine for that matter)? The oil pump is a completely separate compenent ran by the Cam gear through the distibutor shaft.

I would pull the distibutor out and check to see if the hex shaft that goes from the dist. shaft to the oil pump isn't damaged. If that all looks good (not Stripped or broke) Then drain the oil and then pull the pan to access the oil pump itself and change it out for a new one. You will also need to replace the oil pump shaft at the same time and would suggest buying the hardened one from arp for longevity.

Another thing before you tear anything else apart. How are you checking oil pressure. Is it an existing electrical guage in your dash our do you have a mechanical guage with a line from the engine to the back of the guage. If you have the electric guage yet you should replace it with a mechanical one that will bve more accurate and have graduated readings instead of L or H. If you already have a mechanical guage are you sure that is isn't kinked, pinched, or blocked off by some debris, prohibiting any flow getting to the gauge itself.

One last thing, When you had the head off to replace the gasket did you check it for warp? Most of the time when a normally aspirated engine with a lower compression ratio developes a head gasket leak it is due to a warped head. You may need to get the heads milled in the future, and you should keep a close eye on your oil level/quality to make sure you aren't leaking through the head again.

Good Luck
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Old July 26th, 2008, 10:27 AM   #18
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Since when do bearings have ANYTHING to do with oil pressure.

Since the dawn of time! The clearance between all of the plain bearings in the motor (cam, crank, rod) contribute to the resistance of the oil pump delivering the oil. Excess clearances equal low oil pressure.

It sounds like the coolant contamination helped wipe out the bearings. Other things I've seen with Ford motors that contribute to oil pressure loss: aluminum oil pump bodies (its great when the drive gear galls the aluminum and breaks the drive from the distributor). I've also seen multiple instances with Ford oil pump pickup screens clogging up with parafin and other solids on motors that lacked maintanence. This was very common on the 2.3 motors in Rangers.

Good luck with the project.
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Old July 26th, 2008, 04:46 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by bigblockford79 View Post
Since when do bearings have ANYTHING to do with oil pressure. Have eve even had a Ford SB apart (or any engine for that matter)? The oil pump is a completely separate compenent ran by the Cam gear through the distibutor shaft.

I would pull the distibutor out and check to see if the hex shaft that goes from the dist. shaft to the oil pump isn't damaged. If that all looks good (not Stripped or broke) Then drain the oil and then pull the pan to access the oil pump itself and change it out for a new one. You will also need to replace the oil pump shaft at the same time and would suggest buying the hardened one from arp for longevity.

Another thing before you tear anything else apart. How are you checking oil pressure. Is it an existing electrical guage in your dash our do you have a mechanical guage with a line from the engine to the back of the guage. If you have the electric guage yet you should replace it with a mechanical one that will bve more accurate and have graduated readings instead of L or H. If you already have a mechanical guage are you sure that is isn't kinked, pinched, or blocked off by some debris, prohibiting any flow getting to the gauge itself.

One last thing, When you had the head off to replace the gasket did you check it for warp? Most of the time when a normally aspirated engine with a lower compression ratio developes a head gasket leak it is due to a warped head. You may need to get the heads milled in the future, and you should keep a close eye on your oil level/quality to make sure you aren't leaking through the head again.

Good Luck

you sir do not have a clue. i have built about every brand of motor there is. back in the 90s i built the top four in points sprint cars motors from SOD, (sprints on dirt). please get a clue before you run your mouth..
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Old July 26th, 2008, 05:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblockford79 View Post
Since when do bearings have ANYTHING to do with oil pressure. Have eve even had a Ford SB apart (or any engine for that matter)? The oil pump is a completely separate compenent ran by the Cam gear through the distibutor shaft.

I would pull the distibutor out and check to see if the hex shaft that goes from the dist. shaft to the oil pump isn't damaged. If that all looks good (not Stripped or broke) Then drain the oil and then pull the pan to access the oil pump itself and change it out for a new one. You will also need to replace the oil pump shaft at the same time and would suggest buying the hardened one from arp for longevity.

Another thing before you tear anything else apart. How are you checking oil pressure. Is it an existing electrical guage in your dash our do you have a mechanical guage with a line from the engine to the back of the guage. If you have the electric guage yet you should replace it with a mechanical one that will bve more accurate and have graduated readings instead of L or H. If you already have a mechanical guage are you sure that is isn't kinked, pinched, or blocked off by some debris, prohibiting any flow getting to the gauge itself.

One last thing, When you had the head off to replace the gasket did you check it for warp? Most of the time when a normally aspirated engine with a lower compression ratio developes a head gasket leak it is due to a warped head. You may need to get the heads milled in the future, and you should keep a close eye on your oil level/quality to make sure you aren't leaking through the head again.

Good Luck
The hex on the dist shaft is all good, checked it the other day. I did notice the EGR on the back of the heads wasnt blocked off so i blocked it with plates. I checked the oil pressure with a mechanical gage screwed into the port on the motor, no oil pressure at all, even when i rev it up or hold a rev the needle dont move, and no oil goes up the tube. No wonder why this damn motor has such loud valvetrain, nothing is getting lubricated. I never checked the head for warpage. I did say earlier that i had a head gasket leak (blown headgakset) but i really didnt, i thought i did its been so long. I replaced the gasket cuz i had to take the head off because of a broked stud. I drained the oil and there was VERY little coolant mixed in, just alilttle came out for 1 second then it stopped, the rest was oil. Im about to pull the pan off.

I was thinking about putting some good 289 heads on my 302 because they have beefy valve springs and adjustable rockers, I think its a roller setup. All id need is a roller cam, which i could swap the e303 from the 289 into the 302..at least i think it can be done.

Since i noticed hardly any coolant in my oil im hoping the main bearings are still good. Hopefully its a bad oil pump because thats what it sounds like to me, since no oil is getting up to the upper end. Ill keep u guys posted and ill try to get some pics up today.
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