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Old November 15th, 2005, 04:48 PM   #1
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Default Time for a New Clutch

After 148,000 miles it's time for a new clutch. Any suggestions on where to purchase it? I see Ol JC Whitney has a complete package for $224 bucks. Since my exh manifold is cracked, I thought I might as well pull the engine and change the clutch and mainfold at the same time. If history repeats itself, I should break about 1/2 the bolts on this. I just don't feel like drilling manifold bolts out while the engine in the Jeep. I'm open to suggestions on this endeavor:bdr:

First time on this site, looks good.

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Old November 15th, 2005, 05:14 PM   #2
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I just did the clutch on my 95YJ 4cyl. The cost of the complete kit was around $160 (that's clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, install tool)
I paid $35 to have the flywheel resurfaced. My clutch came from Carquest but you can find a price similar to that anyday of the week online.

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Old November 15th, 2005, 06:57 PM   #3
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www.carolinaclutch.com

I have a Luk Gold in my YJ... it's 3 years and 60,000 miles old with lots of wheeling miles with the wrong gears... still works great... I can smoke my swampers with no issues.

I would recommend it highly.
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Old November 16th, 2005, 04:27 AM   #4
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Thanks for the responses. Just wondering, did you make this repair by removing the trans or pulling the motor? The reason I thinking of the motor is only that I need to do the manifolf also.

What did that Luk Gold run?

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Old November 16th, 2005, 04:58 AM   #5
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I think this repair is made easiest by rmoving the tranny/t-case. ut since you need to put a new header on, it might be easier to pull the motor for that and do the clutch with the motor pulled. If you pull the tranny/tcase, you'll want something other than a jack to get it out of the vehicle. A tranny jack would be great but at least a motorcycle lift will work. I used a motor cycle lift to get it done. And with the help of a couple friends we had the whole operation done in about 6 hours. I think that's pretty good cuz we goofed a bit and I was a virgin at clutches.
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Old November 17th, 2005, 06:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWK
Thanks for the responses. Just wondering, did you make this repair by removing the trans or pulling the motor? The reason I thinking of the motor is only that I need to do the manifolf also.

What did that Luk Gold run?

AWK
Yep, just take out the skid plate, driveshafts, take apart the gear shifters, and rubber boot, disconnect all the wires/tubes going to the t-case, unbolt it, and slide it back..

I would only suggest leaving the t-case/tranny bolted together if you have at least one other person helping.. It is a real bitch pegging that trans back in with the t-case attached..

Also, when you are frustrated and can't get the transmisssion off, look up

You will find two real hard to get at bolts... I usually use the proper sized extension and go from the top, through the shifter hole

Good luck, and you might want to post this is the wrenching section... This is a easy job after you have done it 20 times
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Old November 17th, 2005, 08:16 AM   #7
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"Good luck, and you might want to post this is the wrenching section... This is a easy job after you have done it 20 times"

What folder would be the "Wrenching Section" I think I may be ovcer looking this.

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Old November 17th, 2005, 01:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker
Also, when you are frustrated and can't get the transmisssion off, look up

You will find two real hard to get at bolts... I usually use the proper sized extension and go from the top, through the shifter hole
A 1/2" drive univeral works very well for those.
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Old November 17th, 2005, 05:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeperscreepers89
A 1/2" drive univeral works very well for those.
I drop the trans as far as I can then use a long extension and come from behind. :tonka:
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Old November 17th, 2005, 06:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyevil
I drop the trans as far as I can then use a long extension and come from behind. :tonka:
That's what I did. As far as easy after 20 times, he's prolly right. It's all about alignment, once it's aligned right it slips right in. . .
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Old November 17th, 2005, 09:43 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWK
"Good luck, and you might want to post this is the wrenching section... This is a easy job after you have done it 20 times"

What folder would be the "Wrenching Section" I think I may be ovcer looking this.

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Old November 17th, 2005, 09:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker
Yep, just take out the skid plate, driveshafts, take apart the gear shifters, and rubber boot, disconnect all the wires/tubes going to the t-case, unbolt it, and slide it back..

I would only suggest leaving the t-case/tranny bolted together if you have at least one other person helping.. It is a real bitch pegging that trans back in with the t-case attached..

Also, when you are frustrated and can't get the transmisssion off, look up

You will find two real hard to get at bolts... I usually use the proper sized extension and go from the top, through the shifter hole
Good luck, and you might want to post this is the wrenching section... This is a easy job after you have done it 20 times

I get those two through the shifter hole as well! Have done this several ways and it seems the easiest and you only need one long extension so you can still get good leverage.
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Old November 18th, 2005, 07:08 AM   #13
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I would agree on the 20 times also. This will be the first time this clutch has been changed on this old 94 YJ. EVERYTIME I work on anything on this Jeep I average about 50% breakage of bolts. I always spray them with PBR, WD40, days before I start. This is one reason why I thinking of taking the motor out to do the clutch. I just have a bad feeling about drilling out manifold bolts while the motor is in.

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Old November 19th, 2005, 08:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWK
I would agree on the 20 times also. This will be the first time this clutch has been changed on this old 94 YJ. EVERYTIME I work on anything on this Jeep I average about 50% breakage of bolts. I always spray them with PBR, WD40, days before I start. This is one reason why I thinking of taking the motor out to do the clutch. I just have a bad feeling about drilling out manifold bolts while the motor is in.

AWK
I thought I was going to bust a bunch of bolts as well in my 85 but I didn't break one and they all came out pretty easily for the most part. Once you get inside the bell housing, there's really no worry of breaking those bolts either. Also, if someone tells you not to have the flywheel balanced, it's okay, do it anyway. It's a $30 job that will saev you headaches later.
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Old November 19th, 2005, 02:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodapop
I thought I was going to bust a bunch of bolts as well in my 85 but I didn't break one and they all came out pretty easily for the most part. Once you get inside the bell housing, there's really no worry of breaking those bolts either. Also, if someone tells you not to have the flywheel balanced, it's okay, do it anyway. It's a $30 job that will saev you headaches later.
Balanced? I would make sure mark it and put it back in the correct orientation. Do you mean re-surfaced? I plan on doing that since I will have to motor out any way. It will be staring me in the face. I have never had a clutch chatter concern after a resurface.

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Old November 19th, 2005, 07:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWK
Balanced? I would make sure mark it and put it back in the correct orientation. Do you mean re-surfaced? I plan on doing that since I will have to motor out any way. It will be staring me in the face. I have never had a clutch chatter concern after a resurface.

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Ya, the wife was talking to me when I was typing, I meant resurfaced. as far as marking for orientation, there was only one way mine would go one based on how they had the bolt holes spaced. I might have been able to put it in 180* the other way though.
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