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Old May 24th, 2008, 05:45 PM   #1
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I recently installed a 400sbc in my 91 wrangler. I got it started finally, but it blowing blue smoke out of the driver's side exhaust. Any body know a cause?
I have another issue. I trying to run vacuum lines & i can't find a schematic to save my life!! The only one i have on now is from the distibutor to the carb. There is a 3-way tee right behind the carb. I plugged these & the engine died out instantly. It won't even start. If I open them up I can start it & get it to idle. What am I missing?
I am not real good with this stuff. I know just enough to be dangerous. I am amazed I got the engine installed & running.
One more thing, I totally rewired the Jeep using a Summit harness ( i know i should of used a Painless harness) but I can't figure out the brake switch. If anybody can help i would really appreciate it.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 06:39 PM   #2
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is this engine newly rebuilt , how many miles?

could be rings, do a compression check.... or could be a valve issue

put a few drops of oil in the cylinder thats low on compression and check again. If it dosn't change that chances are its a valve issue. If it does change, rings are the source.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 06:55 PM   #3
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Some of the other things (besides vacuum advance on the distributor) that may need to have vacuum lines hooked up are EGR valve, PCV valve, power bake booster, etc.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 11:16 PM   #4
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do you have a pcv valve in the drivers side manifold? If so unhook it and plug the hose. It could be sucking oil out of the valve cover. Run breathers instead
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Old May 25th, 2008, 08:52 AM   #5
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I have no pvc valve in the drivers side. I am thinking of just running breathers & running the brake booster to the manifold. Should be ok right? Also, i have no EGR valve. DO I really need one? Isn't it just an emission thing? If i need one, I'll run up to Autozone & see if i can get one. Yes its been rebuilt, but not recently. I bought it from a guy that had it rebuilt about 4 years ago & it sat on an engine stand since then. Everything looked really good under the valve covers & it turned over freely. I know the guy I bought it from so I would think he would be honest about it.
My neighbor said it looked more like black smoke....... That tells me its running rich. I will check the carb & double check the gap on the plugs.

Here's the specs: 400sbc, Holley 600, Advance Adapter fenderwell headers, Supertrapp mufflers, Summit HEI distributor, 350TH with B&M trankskit just installed, Ford 8.8-4.88 gears mini spool, Dana 30-4.88 gears Aussie locker, SOA, Summit 15gal fuel cell mounted behind rear seat, 3 racing seats (but can still run the flod & tumble) all with 4-point harnesses, new Summit gauge & tach, B&M Mega shifter. I have the 205 t-case but am going to run the 231. I may sell it. I wll need to upgrade front axle in order to use it. I guess its a good excuse to get a new axle!

Thanks for the help guys. If any body has a vacuum schematic please send it to me.

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Old May 25th, 2008, 08:56 AM   #6
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If it sat for 4 years and didnt run you could have a valve seal gone bad, a ring that hasn't seated yet, etc. so it could be minor

If its black like you said then its rich and is a timing or carb adjustment.
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Old May 25th, 2008, 09:19 AM   #7
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I was assured that it was turned over a few times a year. Like i said i know the guy i guess i have to take his word for it. I am double checking the carb & gaps But like i said, I am having trouble with the vacuum lines. I can't find a clear route or schematic any where. thanks for the tip.
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Old May 25th, 2008, 11:24 AM   #8
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did he by chance put oil in the cylinders to keep it from rusting??

How long have you ran it for??

When i had my I6 sit for a while i put a few drops of oil in the cylinder to keep it from rusting. Smoked for a while
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Old May 25th, 2008, 07:22 PM   #9
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I don't know if he did that. I guess i didn't think about it. If he was turning it over then oil would have circulated a little bit right. I did pull the valve covers off & everything looked pretty good. I will do so again tomorrow. I haven't messed with the timing at all yet.
Whats the worst it could be? Is it drivable? The longest i had it running for was about 2 minutes. I t hasn't run for real long yet. Like i said i haven't messed with the timing yet or anything. I just got it started. it does fire right up, but there are vacuum leaks galore. The one i am worried about is the EGR valve. I think its on the drivers side right by the header. Sound right? I guess its time to get a Chiltons book eh?
thanks again for the help.
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Old May 25th, 2008, 07:24 PM   #10
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I just thought of something else. I was reading on line for a start up procedure for a rebuilt engine & it said to spray WD40 in the spark plug holes & let it sit over night. It said to use ALOT!! Could it be that? Burning that crap out???!! Just something i thought of.
I did say I'm not too bright when it comes to this stuff.
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Old May 26th, 2008, 07:18 AM   #11
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I haven't done a whole lot of major engine work in a while, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

What are you trying to do with the vacuum lines? There should be one off the carb that has no vacuum at idle and the vacuum increases as you increase RPM, that one is for the distributor vacuum advance. You need a large one for the brake booster that has vacuum all the time. Same for the PVC. What other vacuum does it need? I think you can just plug the rest of them unless the engine has some emissions crap on it.

About the 3-way T, I would try looking up the donor vehicle vacuum schematic and see what they are supposed to go to. I don't see any reason that plugging a vacuum line would kill a motor? Unless the carb is that badly out of adjustment it need the air.

I have had recently rebuilt motors smoke for a while until everything decided where it wanted to be. I would run it a bit before I got too excited. (well, unless it looks like a crop duster, then it may be a problem)
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Old May 26th, 2008, 08:57 AM   #12
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That's what I started to think about last night. It hasn't run for a while straight thru. I was just mistified that as soon as I plugged the 3-way tee it died out. The plugs where gapped way off. It was running rich when I checked the plugs for gap. i am going to pull a couple today & check them out. The carb is brand new & I shouldn't have to adjust too much should I? I am going to run the engine for a while when I get it timed & see what happens. What about the EGR valve?
Thanks for all the help. I will keep you informed.
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Old May 26th, 2008, 05:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.O.S. View Post
What about the EGR valve?
I would put one in. They actually help cool the intake charge. When they would get stuck, you could tell because the vehicle wouldn't accelerate properly and would run like crap.
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Old May 26th, 2008, 05:11 PM   #14
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Do you have all the gages hooked up and the radiator too? Id figure out the vacum lines and run it. I dont know if anyone would agree with me but running it for ? 5mins/ no rev's. Keep an eye on the water temp(190*/200*) and oil pressure(50 pounds). If the rebuild had crome moly rings installed, those will take longer to break in than stanard ones(molys being better) The smoke should eventually clear up. Ive had new valve guides installed before and the guy who reamed them did a sloppy job on a couple of the guides, thus dumping oil thru the guide into the exhaust. After you run it for about 5 mins, pull some plugs on the driver side to see which one is burning blue/black./keep posting.
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Old May 26th, 2008, 08:39 PM   #15
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Yes, all the gauges are hooked up & the radiator is hooked up also. I guess i'll grab an EGR valve & hook that up also. I just want to get all the easy stuff taken care before i dive into ripping the engine apart. I have a feeling that if i let it run it will clear up. How hard is a valve job? Weekend work? Just curious, if i need to do it i will. Luckily wife is awesome & will let me spend to get it running. She wants to go the Dunes or Mounds as bas as I do. Thanks again for the help.
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Old May 27th, 2008, 10:53 PM   #16
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Now here is the question of the day for you are you sure the heads are for a 400 , are they 350 heads or a modafied 350 heads???? the reason to ask this a 400 chevy sb need hole between the block and the head that 350 didn't have. and don't worry about the vacmune lines make sure that you don't have any open EI going somewhere or blocked. In fact for right now block off all vacume ports. You can hook them back up after you get the engine running.

Has far has the carb goes take the two adjusting screw on the front bottom and close them off ( do this lightly when they seat you don't torque them tight ) then back them both out about 2 turns is a normal starting point try starting the engine then adjust the idle adjustment till the engine will stay running smoothly. Then check the timing with a timing light it should be about 7 to 10 degrees before top dead center ( mark the damper and timeing mark with light color paint or chauk)

Now shut the engine off and then restart it it should start fairly easy. now time to finish the carb adjustments set the idle has low has it will go and stay running. Then start with the adjustment on the front of the carb and listen for any changes in speed. I would start by going in one on side and go intill the engine stumbles then back it back out about a 1/4 turn leave it alone and do the othersside the same way. Now the engine should be running real smooth..

Double check the timing again. set idle to about 700 to 800 rpm. Then one more time with the with the carb adjustment this should be the last time you need to touch them.check idle speed and timing. Now you should be able to rev it up without the vacume advance conected it might seem a little slow to rev up. But that is normal.

Now hook up you vacume line back up one at a time you should NOT see or hear any major changes in engine speed . now rev it up it should crack has you snap the gas. Don't forget to adjust the timing to specs now and tighten the hold down.

Any other question ask...
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Old May 28th, 2008, 08:03 AM   #17
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thanks alot. How can I tell with the heads? I will check casting numbers i guess. Whats your opinion on the smoke?
I will run down you list this weekend & keep you posted. Thanks for the help.
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Old May 31st, 2008, 07:34 PM   #18
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Did what ya told me & smoke cleared up. I guess i just had to run it a bit. I looked at the Oil Pressure gauge & it was reading around 20pounds at idle!!! If i reved it of course it came up but what should i be at idle. It was idling around 1K. Help!
Everything else checked out. Timing wasn't too bad & it stayed around 200-210degs. I'm running a mechanical fan & no shroud at the moment. Let me know if i missed something.
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Old May 31st, 2008, 07:54 PM   #19
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Well the idle is a little high but by much 200 to 300 rpm oil pressure sounds right for when it's warmed up looks like you have it under control I would still check the heads and block casting number and make sure that they are what you were told. If they 400 heads on 350 or 400 block no problems but if they 250 heads on a 400 block then you are going to have aproble later down the road. You can over heat the block and never know it intill puff it over and done....
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Old June 2nd, 2008, 07:37 AM   #20
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Thanks everybody for all the help.
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