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Old May 24th, 2008, 12:37 AM   #1
Neurotoxin
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Default 89 Yota Pickup Questions....

I'm looking at a 89 4x4 Pickup with the V6 to make into a budget offroad only toy. I have a couple of questions for the experts in the Yota game. Most offroad I would have to say would be moderate.

I want a lift to fit 33's mininum and I think superlift has a 4" lift to do just that. Is there any cheaper alternatives?

Is there any known issues with the 89's with the V6?

How's the stock strength of the drivetrain on these things?

Any electrical gremlins?

Any help with this would be great.

Thanks in advance.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 11:25 AM   #2
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You can fit 33's with a 3 inch body lift if wanted to go that route, alot cheaper too. But you could also do a solid axle swap and leaf spring lift.


The v-6 motors suck in those, they always blow. So if you get it cheap enough run it til it blows(assuming it will) and put a v-8 in it.
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Old May 26th, 2008, 10:46 PM   #3
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I had an 89 XtraCab with a 22RE and a 5 speed. The torsion bars were cranked up some and I only had to do a little trimming for some 31 x 11.50 (yes, 11.50s not 10.50s)

The 3.0 has a rep for not liking headgaskets. I drove one and didn't think it had much over the 22RE for power. Not sure how much power loss to expect with 33s without a regear. If you are on a budget I would just stick with 31s and crank the bars.
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Old May 28th, 2008, 11:44 PM   #4
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33x10.50's will fit stock with minor triming.........there are alot of people running this setup with good results.

I would not add a drop bracket lift like the one you mentioned.
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Old May 29th, 2008, 05:03 AM   #5
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If you install a new idler arm (they all go out and aren't cheap) get the Downey support brace for it.
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Old May 29th, 2008, 06:10 AM   #6
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The 3.0 is a no-no in my opnion. We have 33's on our 86, just crank the tortion bars. There is a guy around here that put a 555 in a yota and left the front axel for a long time with no problems. There are no major problems with the electrical on the 22re.
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Old June 2nd, 2008, 12:44 PM   #7
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my 89 Toyota has over 251k on the clock and still runs fine. Not sure of the previous maintance but i dont believe the head gasket or anything else major on the motor has been replaced.
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Old June 4th, 2008, 11:35 AM   #8
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I have an 89 PU that runs 31'Ss stock goes great no real problems. I use it to haul and beat it at the mounds. I have replaced the idler arm that is about it. I have an 89 4Runner with the V6 the motor has been replaced at 150K with a K & N heades and exhaust it seems a bit better than a 22RE but I have not driven it that much yet. I need to get it on the road my 85 4Runner is getting tired time to turn it into a trail toy.
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Old January 6th, 2009, 09:52 AM   #9
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i was wondering if your 89 with 22r was mated to the r150f 5 speed trans? my 1990 v6 is shot (fixable) but i have a good 22r (carb) cant find the right bellhousing any ideas?
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Old January 6th, 2009, 11:35 AM   #10
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It looks like you will have to get a bell housing for a R151 Transmission. It was typically mated to the 22RET.

Bellhousing bolt patterns by MarlinCrawler
84' to 03' Toy 5 speed trannies use two bellhousing to transmission bolt patterns.
small 9 bolt pattern
84-88' G52,54 carb 22R
89-95' G58 EFI 22R
85-88' W56 early EFI 22R
89-95' W56 late EFI 22R
96-03' W59 EFI 2.7

large 9 bolt pattern
86-87' R151F EFI Turbo 22R
88-95' R150F EFI 3.0V6
96-03' R150F EFI 3.4V6
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Old January 6th, 2009, 11:54 AM   #11
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There is one for sale over on Yotatech ............ http://www.yotatech.com/f107/r151f-t...ousing-161700/
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Old January 6th, 2009, 05:35 PM   #12
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thanks for that info it will help me narrow down my search i already bought a small pattern bellhousing before i knew the difference does it have to be from a turbo or will any 89-90 4 cylinder 5 speed housing bolt up? thanks again
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Old January 7th, 2009, 07:40 AM   #13
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Best thing you can do with a low budget is to get 3" body lift and 33" Mud terrains add that to a heavy foot and you will be surprised what it will do. The front axle will hold up good for a while but when it goes your better off with a solid axle. Weld the diff in the rear that will make a big differance. As for the 3.0L once the head gaskets are replaced they can be good engines. they deffinitly have their quirks but they can go upwords of 220K for sure. I know of two myself that where beet on regurlarly. Their's no argument that an RE is more reliable but the 3.0L has 180-190hp and the only time i could tell is passing on the freeway.
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Old January 7th, 2009, 09:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajatoy53@hotmail View Post
Their's no argument that an RE is more reliable but the 3.0L has 180-190hp and the only time i could tell is passing on the freeway.
Hehe. I usually made the appointments to pass a week ahead of time to do that with either of my 22REs.
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Old January 7th, 2009, 07:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawk View Post
You can fit 33's with a 3 inch body lift if wanted to go that route, alot cheaper too. But you could also do a solid axle swap and leaf spring lift.


The v-6 motors suck in those, they always blow. So if you get it cheap enough run it til it blows(assuming it will) and put a v-8 in it.
i have a 3.0, it has 219k on it never been touched other then head gaskets for the recall. i have about 10 inches of lift and 35 with stock gears and i push them fine not a problem at all.the 3.0 is alot nicer on the freeway if your going 70 and want to start moving again. as fare as this guy saying they suck he dont no what he is talking about cuz they work great if you take care of them. fare as the v-8 i never would, it is not worth the hassel or money or time. and i no that from my brother (mudntruck) unless u want to see a nice boom. but it sounds like a good truck. and if you have money later on you can drop in the 3.4 out of the tacomas.
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Old January 7th, 2009, 07:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solid95yota View Post
as fare as this guy saying they suck he dont no what he is talking about
No, actually, its pretty common knowledge that the 3.0's like to fail rather quickly. You're lucky, and if it continues to work for you, then thats cool. Why mess with success? But it is fair warning that they are known for spitting headgaskets.
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Old January 7th, 2009, 08:57 PM   #17
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No, actually, its pretty common knowledge that the 3.0's like to fail rather quickly. You're lucky, and if it continues to work for you, then thats cool. Why mess with success? But it is fair warning that they are known for spitting headgaskets.
yes i do agree they have there head gasket problems. and they have a rep with as bad motors but i dont no i guess i was just happy with mine lol
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Old January 19th, 2009, 04:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajatoy53 View Post
As for the 3.0L once the head gaskets are replaced they can be good engines. they deffinitly have their quirks but they can go upwords of 220K for sure. I know of two myself that where beet on regurlarly. Their's no argument that an RE is more reliable but the 3.0L has 180-190hp and the only time i could tell is passing on the freeway.
I would argue that the 3.0's are just as reliable as the 22re. The 22re's have issues with timing chain guides. Both engines easily see 200k and up. I had the headgaskets done on my 3.0 for free but they never went. I have 177k on mine with no problems to speak of other than water pump, idler pulley, and radiator replaced.
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Old January 20th, 2009, 11:29 AM   #19
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I drove my 89 on the E-way today for the 1st time with the 33's not as bad as I thought. Was able to maintain speed in 5th gear, no real hills though. The 33's fit with no lift with minor rubbing at the rear of front fenders. They are all rusted there so a couple smacks with a BFH should solve the rubbing issue. I am going to bolt on a set of 32x11.50x15's and try them out before Sno-Blind.
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Old January 20th, 2009, 11:34 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by BOGDOG View Post
I drove my 89 on the E-way today for the 1st time with the 33's not as bad as I thought. Was able to maintain speed in 5th gear, no real hills though. The 33's fit with no lift with minor rubbing at the rear of front fenders. They are all rusted there so a couple smacks with a BFH should solve the rubbing issue. I am going to bolt on a set of 32x11.50x15's and try them out before Sno-Blind.
I am guessing the torsion bars are cranked up on it. I ran 31x11.50 (yes, 11.50s yokohama Muddiggers) on an '89 with cranked t-bars and had to trim some plastic and hammer back some of the firewall but didn't have too much more rubbing after that.
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