Transfer Case Doublers vs. different t-case gearing; Which is better? - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

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View Poll Results: Pick 1 of the following
Leave the alone 1 8.33%
Run a doubler 7 58.33%
Run 4:1 gears 3 25.00%
Run 4:1 gears and a doubler and go super super slow!!! 1 8.33%
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll

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Old May 22nd, 2008, 02:28 PM   #1
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Default Transfer Case Doublers vs. different t-case gearing; Which is better?

In the process of trying to make my TJ bigger and better it finally came time to start looking into getting a new t-case. I initally was leaning towards an Atlas 4 speed, because of the different gearing options i would be offered. However a 4 speed is just to spendy right now, so I settled on a STak Dana 300 RAC. Basically its a machined aluminum housing that you swap the guts of a dana 300 into, its also designed to be a drives side drop t-case, so no flip is needed. This also gives me the option of using all the 300 upgrades if i want to, like 32spline outputs and 4:1 gears.

In the past ive never had any issues with the low range speed of my 231, even though i thought it was a little fast at times. Ive been looking around and have been thinking about doing either 4:1 gears in the t-case or running a doubler setup as options for later on down the road. Does anyone have the 4:1 gears in a dana 300, how do you like them? Is it sometimes to low for what you need? At the moment im more leaning towards a doubler of some kind. For almost the same price of a Teralow 4:1 kit you can build a 231 doubler with 1 of the available kits. Or for more you can do a Klune V or a Northwestfab black box. All of these offer the same 2.7:1 reduction, just the klune and Blackbox are a bit more compact and have a fancier housing

Right now im just looking for opinions, dont start a shitstorm.
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 03:06 PM   #2
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The RAC is really sweet for the D300. I think that the most affordable option is the 231/300 doubler. The 4:1 IIRC are in the neighborhood of 1200 bucks. If you do a 4:1 with a 231 you are typically going to need an SYE because of the lift, which is not an issue for a 300 because it already has the fixed rear output.

125ish for a 300, 600ish for the doubler kit, and the 231 you already have, and you are rolling with about a 7:1 super low for under $800.
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 03:38 PM   #3
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125ish for a 300, 600ish for the doubler kit, and the 231 you already have, and you are rolling with about a 7:1 super low for under $800.
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 03:59 PM   #4
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well so far i got the STak RAC in the mail, along with a complete 300 rebuild kit, and i just picked up a cmplete 300 for $40 a few days ago. Im gonna sell my np231 cause its in great shape and already has a sye, good internals, and novak shifter. Ill get another 231 to cut up. The only things im unsure of is the strength of the cast aluminum housing of the 231 and the rear drive shaft length.
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 06:32 PM   #5
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I run a doubler in my truck, and really like the setup. There have been several times that I've thought about going ot a single case in the 4 to 5:1 range, but I use both ranges too often.

For example, on the SS snow run this year, I ran exclusively in my single low range, since wheel speed was key. Double Low-reverse wouldn't have been enough to get momentum for rocking out of trouble.

But, then a few weeks ago at Turtle Ridge, I spent 90% of the trip in double low range.

If you are pushing your rear axle back, I'd really look at a doubler, they are very versatile. Especially in a vehicle thats not overly powerful like my 4 banger.

I wish I could fit one in my current Jeep project, but I have no wheelbase for it with the automatic..
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 06:39 PM   #6
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A 231/300 doubler is roughly the same length as a 231 with a slip
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 07:49 PM   #7
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A 231/300 doubler is roughly the same length as a 231 with a slip
Hence the comment about pushing the rear axle back. From my TJ days, I believe its, what, 11 to 13" between u-joint centers on a 231 with a slip? Now, you lose, what, 1-3 more inches of length due to the dana 60 pinion snout? Now you put a good amount of lift, and no way to get a driveshaft in it. But, move the rear axle back 6-8", which is a great wheelbase anyway for the kind tire size you'd want with those axles.
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 08:23 PM   #8
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I'll let you know how my D300/231 doubler works in about 9-12 months. It shifts really nice while sitting in the vehicle, not moving....without axles.....

I run 36's and 5.13's and sometimes I wish I had a bit less low range in the mud and a much deeper gear in the rocks. My 4.0L isn't a horsepower monster, and I want to keep it stock, so in my opinion the doubler (4spd) is the only way to go. I NEVER use high range while offroading. Its either in 2wd or in Low.
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 09:51 PM   #9
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If your going to drop the coin on a d300, aluminum case, and lower gears all at once. Just get the full Stak.

Your probably going to eventually upgrade your 300 outputs, and with a full rebuild kit your going to be within a few hundred dollars of a Stak already.
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 09:27 PM   #10
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Doubler for sure. I run one and love it. Main reason being you have plenty of gearing options at a lower cost then an atlas 4 speed case.

Also if you are good at fabrication and machining you can make your own doubler. I did for about 100 bucks.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 11:13 AM   #11
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ok this is on the same line..can you do a doubler using a 231?? and if so how??
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Old May 25th, 2008, 11:34 AM   #12
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ok this is on the same line..can you do a doubler using a 231?? and if so how??
http://www..com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1686&st=0&sk=t&sd=a
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