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Old May 16th, 2008, 01:04 PM   #1
Flexin' XJ
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Default Hydraulic Cylinder Help

I am working on a John Deere 4100 Utility Tractor. The steering cylinder is leaking at the rod seal and it needs to be replaced.

Looking at the parts breakdown, it looks as I can unscrew the one end (top in the pictures) and remove the rod and replace the seal.

I have never rebuilt one of these so if anybody has, is that how these cylinders come apart?

The other end is welded but this end is not. There are two notches and I am thinking there is a special tool to unscrew or remove the end.



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Old May 16th, 2008, 01:23 PM   #2
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u need a set of spaner wrenches to unscrew the cap......make sure when u take it apart that u make notes (on a note pad) on which parts came out in which order.....

and just incase u don't know what a spaner wrench is.....here is a pic
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Old May 16th, 2008, 01:25 PM   #3
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Thanks. I don't think there are any of those in the shop. I may have to get one.
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Old May 16th, 2008, 01:29 PM   #4
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they make all different sizes and u can normaly pick em up cheap at harbor freight......we use em on airplanes all the time to rebuild the struts and hydulic cyl.
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Old May 16th, 2008, 02:20 PM   #5
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I found an adjustable one, but it won't work. I need one like in the picture so that it can't spread apart.
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Old May 16th, 2008, 03:07 PM   #6
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its probably a lot easier and maybe even cheaper to get a new ram from surpluscenter.com
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Old May 16th, 2008, 03:29 PM   #7
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how would buying a new ram be cheaper than paying $15 for a cheap set of spaners and $1 for the o- ring needed????
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Old May 16th, 2008, 03:45 PM   #8
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how would buying a new ram be cheaper than paying $15 for a cheap set of spaners and $1 for the o- ring needed????

gas money to get spanners, looking for a good deal and going to 3 places or shipping charges
a $1 o-ring isnt going to fix a leaky hydraulic cylinder
I'd figure on ~$20 for the right seal kit/bushing
and then crossing your fingers that everything will work without issues for years to come so you dont have to do it again....

just because all of the money isn't spent in one spot doesnt mean it wont add up.

I'm just saying, price one, it may or may not be worth it.
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Old May 16th, 2008, 04:18 PM   #9
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I don't pay gas. I would just order from grainger and we don't get charged shipping and I order the seal kit from the JD dealer and go pick it up.

Money isn't an issue at all.
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Old May 16th, 2008, 06:21 PM   #10
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and if u were to order a brand new one from JD its gonna cost u an arm an a leg........y do that if all the parts are useable except a freakin o-ring......o and most of the jd places will send u the o rings frees of shipping
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Old May 17th, 2008, 10:06 AM   #11
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A little FYI

Yes that is how they come apart.

Be careful the way you have it in the vise, the barrels will crush especially as people have a tendency to keep tightening them as they spin in the vise trying to get the cap out.

These caps can be very hard to get out. Especially if they are the aluminum ones.

I have had to scrap cylinders that take a hard impact on the cap like steering and bucket cylinders with the aluminum caps. The high impacts will actually wedge the caps in the threads. I tried to have one cut out by a machine shop once but the cost was going to exceed the cost of a new complete cyl.

If you have a good straight edge check the ram a slight bend in one will cause leaks. Just like on a jeep these will bend like the steering links do.

And last if you have to start buying parts. price a complete cyl. allot of times you can buy a new one with a warranty cheaper then you can buy many parts. This is hard to believe but the way they source and price repair parts it happens that way.

Hope this helps
(former ag and heavy equipment mechanic)
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Old May 17th, 2008, 05:00 PM   #12
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Thanks Jasper, it is only slightly tight in the vice. I didn't want to crush the housing. I will try to get a spanner and see if I can get it off there. If not, I may just take it to the dealer and see what they can do. They should have the correct tools.
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