|April 21st, 2008, 12:44 PM||#1|
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Dearborn Heights, MI
Ford OBS (1994-1997) powerstroke intercooler instal
I figured since I'm pulling half of a house down the road now, I'll be needing an intercooler. In the past, I would have to watch EGTs on hard accels pulling about 8K lbs. I am hoping the intercooler reduces the EGTs under boost by about 200-300F.
I choose a 7.3L stock intercooler, I believe from a late 99 truck.
The spider intake piece (that attaches to the turbo) was purchased from http://www.powerstrokeshop.com/ for $115ish. Part ## F81Z-6K889BA
The pipes are all mandrell bent, 3" dia, from http://www.woolfaircraft.com/ . Woolf is located near the Metro airport, and has a lot of surplus stock (scrap pieces, canceled orders, etc) and they'll work with you on the price if you are a "walk in". I'm used them for my contour and buggy and they're always great to work with.
I mainly followed this write-up, with a few minor changes
It took 1 evening to pull all the front grill components off (everything infront of the rad support). It took me a while to figure out how to remove the parking light assemblies, since it is kind of a blind job.
The next two evenings was spent mocking up the intercooler and making the brackets. I also moved the AC condenser as described in Tim's write-up, and repaired a cracked rad support...
Step one is to completely remove front grill, including the headlight assembly, turn signals.
Step two is to relocate the AC condeser as described in the link above
Step three is to start clearancing the rad support to fit the intercooler and boots. below are the pics shouwing what I had trimmed
Step 4 is to make the brackets to house the lower tabs of the IC, and drill into the rad support for the brackets.
In these pictures you can also see how I moddified the AC condenser mounts to work
Step 5 is to clearance the hood latch handle to clear the intercooler
Step 6 is mount the intercooler into the brackets, and drill the holes for the upper mounts.
Step 7 is installing the pipes... How I made the piping is included below.
pass side lower (note that all piping has matching numbers to help instal) 1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2, etc...
pass side upper
The pics for the drivers side didn't show up, but all the piping is labeled for easy instal.
Here is how I made the pipes
The final night (4 total) was making the pipes
Here are the pipes for the pass side. I'll get dimensions when I pull the pipes off for final paint
The drivers side pipes are simply 2 90 deg bends, I'll get better pics of those too.
I ran out of the good T bar hose clamps, so I ran to home depot and just got the el-cheapos, fully expecting them to blow off.
I ran the truck about 300 miles this weekend and didn't have a hiccup (90 miles of which was pulling about 5500 lbs). The EGTs seem to be a lot lower, and there is certainly more power under higher boost. Playing around on a hard accel on an entrance ramp, I did get to 1200F. I also set a CEL for low pressure in the high pressure oil pump circuit (gotta love the wildman tunes) Even at 20+ psi the home depot clamps didn't blow.
Special Thanks and Recommendations to;
PAC Racing Springs
Joint Clutch and Gear
Last edited by Bones; September 26th, 2008 at 12:15 PM.
|April 22nd, 2008, 07:30 AM||#4|
Are we there yet?
Join Date: 04-20-06
Location: Auburn, Mi
Wow! Nice Work.
|March 20th, 2012, 02:08 PM||#7|
Join Date: 09-06-06
Location: Middleville, MI
I am considering doing this with my 97 crew cab. Was curious if you felt it was worth it in the end? My truck is pretty unmodded with just the down pipe and straight pipe, mufflerless exhaust.
I see 1200 degrees quite a bit while towing and would like to get them down. I just picked up a set-up from a 01 powerstroke with all the components (I know I still need other bits and pieces), but before committing to doing it was curious of your opinion Bones.