Sometime late last summer I was talking to Jim about modding his jeep and it snowballed and somehow I got in the middle of it. before I knew what was going on I agreed to build his jeep over again pretty much. The goal was lots of strength and a nice cushy ride while providing clearance for 40's in the future.
I think tieing the high steer to the lower tie rod arm is more strength in the knuckle. Helps support the loads better the top of the knuckle sees. Probably not as much on aftermarket knuckles as oe kingpin knuckles.
Exactly. Does it help? Some for sure, but the way it is usually done doesn't do much. Do the math and almost all the load is still on the top. I plan to do something different but it's not in the near future.
I figure it box's the knuckle, keeps the arm from pushing up or down or flexing the cast of the knuckle. But yeah probably doesn't do much with left to right forces on it.
As far as up and down, it might help some but I think the casting is very strong in that direction. I failed to show that I went with the 5 bolt arm design too.
Typically the way alot of people design their "double shear" high steer setups do not load the bolt in a true "double shear" fashion lol. Double shear is a pin/bolt loading term, but how many bolt failures do you see??
But there is no doubt that it disburses the load "more" evenly across the knuckle so that it reduces stress in the more vulnerable areas. ie stress risers around bolt holes transitional areas where the , abrupt changes in material thickness,
If you did a load analysis "correctly" on this and color mapped it, you could visualize the benefits
Yes, but not yet Paul for 2 reasons. Lots of holiday stuff going on right now and I don't think I can get it swapped out before 12/26. Second, since I broke a stub shaft, I'm a little concerned about my Detroit. There was nothing in the dif oil but.......
So, rather than having to pull both sides back down if there is a problem, I save some labor by waiting till after a test run.
Oh, and credit goes to @95geo for the hoist brackets on the frame. :thumb:
At the time, those brackets were temporary to cycle the suspension during the build.... Had we known they were going to get burned in permanently, they probably would have been a little more thought out than scraps welded to the frame!
The jeep is looking good, and by good I mean getting used!
So I mentioned that I had spun my rear driveshaft enough on the rocks that it had worn down the yoke and the snap rings were about to fall out. Since there was nothing else wrong with this driveshaft and it's a thick wall, I wanted to salvage it. So...... what to do??
Rock rash
First thing to do was to set the shaft up in the mill and machine the old yoke down flush to the top of the u-joint.
Next I made up some new rings with a thru diameter of 1.188 to match the u-joint and a counterbored diameter for the snap ring.
Next I drove the u-joint out far enough to pilot the ring on the yoke and then clamped it in place. (no pic) A few tack welds around the outside hold it in place. (sorry I don't have a TIG so I can't brag about nice welds :d
Hey, snap rings fit!
Final hit with the flap wheel to remove the high spots, splash some spray bomb rustoleum on and it's good to go. :woot:
Well that was a good idea. Way easier than replacing the whole yoke
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