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Old October 23rd, 2009, 08:24 AM   #61
MidMichxj
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So here is the story.
It flopped while wheeling at the Tressel in Canada. It was driver error.
Wheeled it a couple hours then the crank locked up. Had to drag it dead out of the bush.
Got it home to evaluate the damage.
Pulled the pan, loosened the main caps and now the crank turns.
I will pull the engine this weekend and put a crank and bearings in it and that should take care of that issue.
I am going to link the rear end to improve the handling. Prolly coil springs out of a TJ.
Thinking about 7075 alum. links but, could use some input from those who know.

Still thinking about cage designs. But the first step will be to gut the interior.
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Old October 23rd, 2009, 08:54 AM   #62
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Dale,
Good to see you getting back on the horse. I'm not a good advisor on link material but I can tell you that I've bent the shit out of my steel ones and I think you'll be heavier than me.
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Old October 23rd, 2009, 12:15 PM   #63
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go 7075....
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Old October 23rd, 2009, 01:12 PM   #64
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I've never run anything but 1.75x.25" DOM so my opinion is easily discredited. If you want links that will last a long time and not break the bank then go with a DOM and at least a .250" wall. .375 is closer to long term material if you're hard on it. If you have some money to spend and want low maintenance then go with 2.0" 7075 lowers and as small as 1.5" but safer with 1.75" uppers. Spidertrax heat treated links are right up there if not better than solid 7075 links. Another alternative is to get ballistic or some other brand chromoly threaded race inserts and some heat treated tubing by the foot from poly performance. That should be a little cheaper than spidertrax links but they arent 100% heat treated, just the tube.

I'm building with 2.0" 7075 lowers and 1.75" 7075 uppers this time around and I dont foresee any issues. If I do have any I'll go with spidertrax links.

$0.01
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Old October 23rd, 2009, 01:18 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
If you want links that will last a long time and not break the bank then go with a DOM and at least a .250" wall. .375 is closer to long term material if you're hard on it.
I've put a nice bow in both of my 36" long 1.75x0.25 DOM front lowers on the first big trip out in Harlan. (Similar setup to WhiteRhino's rig, but about 400lbs lighter and 100hp less ) I'll run them a good while longer, but a little thicker or bigger diameter might be worth it.
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Old October 23rd, 2009, 01:50 PM   #66
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a 1.75x.25 is about the minumum you can get away with for lowers on the average build. Triangulated lowers are a significant part of what you can get away with too. the problem is that a 2.0" tube is a bitch to get welded onto the bushings and you need a huge chamfer and some clean up work in order to get the welded with a mig and not be unsightly or screwing the housings up so bad that they are junk.

I dont think DOM is any sort of long term lower link material for people who are hard on vehicles, you need better materials and that costs a significant amount more. Up until recently prices were through the roof. I have over $25/ft into raw 2.0" 7075, about 3x the cost of DOM. Heat treated links are as much as $150 each for a 2.0"x.25" wall with inserts. It adds up quick!
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Old January 4th, 2010, 08:39 PM   #67
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Got started on the rear suspention.
Out with the old!


Getting the axle mocked up.




About ride height stretched 3 1/2".






I have to run the measurements on the 4 link calculator to see how it comes out. This set-up was the best for packaging.

Last edited by MidMichxj; January 5th, 2010 at 05:20 AM. Reason: Enlarged pics
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Old January 4th, 2010, 08:48 PM   #68
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not to be rude, but the pics are to small
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Old January 5th, 2010, 05:21 AM   #69
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Better pics?
I have a lot to learn!
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Old January 5th, 2010, 05:30 AM   #70
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looks like it will be a sweet ride dale. last i saw it was awesome.
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Old January 5th, 2010, 11:21 AM   #71
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glad your going to put it back together...now you can beat the crap out of it with us and not worry about dents.
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Old January 29th, 2010, 07:48 PM   #72
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who made the rear bumper?
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Old February 1st, 2010, 07:03 AM   #73
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I made the rear bumper last year.
Bunch of progress made in the last couple weeks.
I will get some pics this week.
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Old March 14th, 2010, 06:04 AM   #74
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Sorry for no pic, but I had a fight with the camera.
Updates:
Rear 4 link is done except shock mounts, paint and final spring calibration.
Spent an afternoon with 2 port a powers and a good body man to get the roof back into general location. The windshield fits and all the doors open and close.
Got 2 sticks of 1.75 x .120 dom and 2 sticks 1.5 x.125 dom and the cage build starts today.
Reworked the rear wheel wells with rear inner fenders from a 80s gm pick-up and redid the rear tube fenders.
Lots of work to do, but still working for a May 1 test date.
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Old March 14th, 2010, 06:48 AM   #75
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very cool xj dude. keep up the good work
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Old April 10th, 2010, 10:50 PM   #76
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Can't wait to see the 4 link, when my 60's go in, no sense doing it twice... do you do mentoring programs Any cage pics? Just make 2 of everything, I'll catch up with ya
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