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Old April 6th, 2006, 08:50 AM   #1
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Default Installing engines at 4 degrees off center...

Anybody see any problem with putting an engine in aprox 4 degrees rotated clockwise to clear front driveshaft issues?


YJ - TPI Small Block
Trans, 700r4
Dana 300

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Old April 6th, 2006, 08:55 AM   #2
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not 100% sure but alignment issues with the rest of the drive train could be a problem considering angles and wear issues of the connections

just a guess I mean its not like I got very far in school
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Old April 6th, 2006, 09:16 AM   #3
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You will need to make the oil returns on the motor accept more oil flow. So it won't puddle and get sucked up thru the PCV system. Also you will have to recalibrate your dipsticks to show proper fluid level. You could move the motor 2-3" off center and do custom exhaust on the short side.
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Old April 6th, 2006, 09:33 AM   #4
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How are you the only person in the world who can't make a small block work in a YJ?
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Old April 6th, 2006, 12:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar
How are you the only person in the world who can't make a small block work in a YJ?


Hell I cleared the front driveshaft with my 355/700r4/231 and all I had was a shackle lift at that time

Where on the front DS is it not clearing? Im guessing right at the D300 t-case output.

If its an oil filter coming close to the shaft try a AC PF454 -- shorter and works with tight clearances, or remote oil system -- i didnt like this with all the vibration and bouncing though. [this shouldnt be the case unless your running drivers drop on that D300]

If your not clearing exhaust on the shaft what are you running manifold or headers and where are they dumping....??? Daves Muffler in durand is a Jeeper and he can bend your pipes around almost anything using 14ga aluminized systems. Does VERY good work. I trailered my jeep to him and he did all the work in his shop, when we couldnt clear the shorty headers, he removed them while I ran home for the Caprice manifolds I now use, and he installed those, and ran the exhaust, great guy and does good work The owner is actually mike and Jason runs the shop now, both are jeepers jason has an SBC jeep and Mike has a Buick 455 IIRC in his FSJ or at least they were, the thing about the exhausts is you dont have to get one often because they do good work lol.


Pics would help
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Old April 6th, 2006, 01:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar
How are you the only person in the world who can't make a small block work in a YJ?

Find me someone else running my setup, and I won't ask any more questions.

Sorry I'm doing something original.. Or trying at least.
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Old April 6th, 2006, 01:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak81


Hell I cleared the front driveshaft with my 355/700r4/231 and all I had was a shackle lift at that time

Yeah, if I was running that setup, I wouldn't have a problem. But I'm running a dana 300 instead of the 231.

If the 300 was as long as the 231 I wouldn't have an issue
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Old April 6th, 2006, 01:31 PM   #8
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Original is gay. You will never be as cool as a TJ with a 4wd catalog..
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Old April 6th, 2006, 01:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar
Original is gay. You will never be as cool as a TJ with a 4wd catalog..

If I could afford a tj, I would buy one.
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Old April 6th, 2006, 02:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker
Yeah, if I was running that setup, I wouldn't have a problem. But I'm running a dana 300 instead of the 231.

If the 300 was as long as the 231 I wouldn't have an issue

Hence why i asked the questions I did and didn't get an answer

I KNOW the D300 is different and shorter, I have looked into the setup you are running myself... but at the time I didnt have the time to mess around with getting it to work.

You want to clear the shaft... but where and what is it hitting, if your drivers drop you could be hitting, exhaust, tranny or oil filter... pics would be VERY helpful here.
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Old April 6th, 2006, 02:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker
If I could afford a tj, I would buy one.
This comming from the guy that has 2 land rovers
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Old April 6th, 2006, 02:36 PM   #12
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I did it with my CJ because the front shaft was real close to the trans pan. Although I'm not exactly sure of the angle I know it wasn't straight.
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Old April 6th, 2006, 02:43 PM   #13
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I love your threads cc, genuine issues that you need help with, and this is what happens. TJ's are expensive, You are on the right path by swapping in a killer drivetrain, awesome paintjob, and I have no doubt, many extras. Way cheaper:tonka:
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Old April 6th, 2006, 02:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak81
Hence why i asked the questions I did and didn't get an answer

I KNOW the D300 is different and shorter, I have looked into the setup you are running myself... but at the time I didnt have the time to mess around with getting it to work.

You want to clear the shaft... but where and what is it hitting, if your drivers drop you could be hitting, exhaust, tranny or oil filter... pics would be VERY helpful here.
PIIIICCCCS would help :tonka:

(getting it back on topic)
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Old April 6th, 2006, 02:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak81

You want to clear the shaft... but where and what is it hitting, if your drivers drop you could be hitting, exhaust, tranny or oil filter... pics would be VERY helpful here.
I had the drivetrain together, with a small block, 999/ np2, it worked out fine.

I replaced the np231 with the dana300, and the front driveshaft hit the tf999 (this is a flipped 300, connecting to my driver side drop dana44. So after doing some investigation, I find out the 700r4 is going to give me alittle more room. so I had one all beefed up, (by killer b) and after looking into driveline angles, and how much travel my front suspension will have, and I'm worried about driveshaft issues. I DO NOT want to run a two piece shaft.

Then KC and I decided that rotating the engine about 3-4 degrees clockwise will give me almost another inch of clearence from the trans to the front driveshaft.

Sorry if this doesn't make sense, but it makes sense to me. :tonka:

I'm thinking of moving my driverside engine mount 2" forward, and my passenger side motor mount 2" backwards...

Hopefully that helps.
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Old April 6th, 2006, 03:04 PM   #16
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So you really want to move the engine rotationally in the engine bay 4* looking at the motor from the top...

not tilting the motor 4* left to right if you were looking at it from the raditator?

Where is it coming too close for comfort to the tranny? I guess I am having a hard time getting a visual of where your shaft would be coming in contact... I am picturing closer to the D300 output, but the u-joint closest to that output should be the widest part of the shaft I would think (if the double cardan is here -- I assume you have one, you may not), and it wont move left to right unless you break something.

If the engine is still level left to right, and tilted slightly rearward, the only problem i see rotating it in the engine bay is possible binding in the driveshaft, but 4* i woudnt think would make much of a difference here on a trail rig.
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Old April 6th, 2006, 03:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker
Find me someone else running my setup, and I won't ask any more questions.
Maybe there's a reason you can't find anyone else doing it.


:tonka:
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Old April 6th, 2006, 04:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker
I had the drivetrain together, with a small block, 999/ np2, it worked out fine.

I replaced the np231 with the dana300, and the front driveshaft hit the tf999 (this is a flipped 300, connecting to my driver side drop dana44. So after doing some investigation, I find out the 700r4 is going to give me alittle more room. so I had one all beefed up, (by killer b) and after looking into driveline angles, and how much travel my front suspension will have, and I'm worried about driveshaft issues. I DO NOT want to run a two piece shaft.

Then KC and I decided that rotating the engine about 3-4 degrees clockwise will give me almost another inch of clearence from the trans to the front driveshaft.

Sorry if this doesn't make sense, but it makes sense to me. :tonka:

I'm thinking of moving my driverside engine mount 2" forward, and my passenger side motor mount 2" backwards...

Hopefully that helps.

Not sure if u have thought about the rad. setup and fans but u will be mighty close to the cooling system if u move the mounts like that. Mine was pretty close and it was head on. Might want to mock that up first to make sure its all going to fit.
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Old April 6th, 2006, 04:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder
Maybe there's a reason you can't find anyone else doing it.


:tonka:
I could just put a 20" lift on my dodge ram, and be like every other redneck out there.

:tonka:
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Old April 6th, 2006, 08:12 PM   #20
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Hey, my tires are under my fenders, buddy.


Rednecks don't lift Rams. They lift POS rigs with 305's.
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