Project Yancy 46 CJ2a Build - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

ovrlnd · April 12th, 2008, 07:03 PM

well it's been a couple of months and I have been plugging away at the build for the flatfender. got some progress done so I'll post some pics and update as I go.

the build plan:
stock drive line: L134, T90, Dana 18, Dana 41 rear, Dana 25 front.
Suspension will be a 1" with H shackles.
wheels: undecided
Tires: 7.00-16 NDT.
color will be olive drab

it's not going to be an "according to hoyle" restoration. much will stay original but a lot of stuff will be updated.

the frame, front hood, windshield, grill, and fenders will stay. the tub will be tossed eventually as it is piece patched together and out of square and too much trouble to fix. either a new tub or one that is in repairable condition.

so far the rear axle has been stripped treated, primed and painted. new stainless cover bolts, new rear driver wheel cylinder and new bent rear brakeline with stainless retainer clamps.

I have removed all the windshield bracketry, trans covers, boot rings, rear bumpstop blocks, rear floor mount which were all cleaned in the electrolysis tank, then cleaned, primed and painted. no old bolts are being used so I got all new stainless fasteners for the items removed. anything for the frame like the rear crossmember bolts are being replaced with grade 8 units.

windshield after all 53 drilled holes from whatever were welded closed and ground smooth before paint removal.

some after shots of the windshield frame

rear axle work (ignore my greasy finger smears on the cover there LOL!)

rear crossmember replacement mocked up

more cleaned and painted parts

Quagmire · April 12th, 2008, 07:16 PM

futurama ftw

looks nice!

ovrlnd · April 12th, 2008, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quagmire

futurama ftw

looks nice!

yup that's where it came from I figured I was going to use that name on something sooner or later

Jeepaholic · April 12th, 2008, 08:08 PM

Looks good, where did you get the new rear cross member from? I need one also.

ovrlnd · April 12th, 2008, 08:45 PM

I've been ordering most of my stuff from willys overland down in toledo. the website tho does not have the updated price ($95) it still says $78 at least under the 2a section. I been really pleased with their stuff. www.willysoverland.com. you can also check out www.walcks4wd.com

ovrlnd · May 29th, 2008, 07:02 PM

ok, so the pix are late but I have been a busy one lately. here are some pix of the work on the windshield, cut out the skin where someone had previously attached a mirror (earlier pix show a patch of blue bondo in this area) and welded in a new clean patch. have been doing some hood work on the new to me hood and it is in the process of being stripped. the w.s. frame has a first coat of primer and the holes that were previously used by sheet metal screws have been drilled and tapped for 10/32 hardware including the holes for the cowl seal. the leather gaskets for the pto cover, master cylinder access cover and trans cover are awaiting the second oil stain but looking good. I had my mother in law tear down the lockouts and clean them up. one is still awaiting finishing and the other was put on for a test fit (hence the blue sealer until my replacement gasket set arrives). missing pix still of the refinished steering wheel and the driver side hub, drum, backing plate I removed stripped, painted and replaced. but soon all the front brake lines will be redone by myself as I begin to tear apart the front axle. going good and having fun.

suckyjunk · May 29th, 2008, 09:12 PM

Looks good, I just installed 33x10.50 TSL's tonight on my CJ 5 with 1" body lift and stock suspension. I think you will be fine with a steel body and small suspension lift.

bj house · May 29th, 2008, 09:41 PM

can I borrow your mother in law ;)

1x1_Speed_Craig · May 30th, 2008, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bj house

can I borrow your mother in law ;)

x2

Looking good.

Craig

ovrlnd · June 24th, 2008, 08:59 PM

got some more progress done but not as much as I would have liked. made the tie in plate from the v-brace to the crossmember. then removed both for prime and painting. removed the muffler to get at the frame in the rear and start the rust removal. some pitting and weld marks but nothing serious. unfortunately I have to do the frame in sections and don't have the room to separate the body so the top of the frame or interference areas will have to wait until I can get at them better. took about 3 hours of working with various wire wheels, scotch brites and the like to get all the areas to the metal and then started the coating with the rust converter. I only took pix after the first coat but you get the idea. once dry I put on the OD chassis paint. it is a little lighter that the other OD I am using but am real happy with the two tone OD.

Pic of the driver front brake assembly:

The steering wheel:
I need a new nut but the wheel itself came out pretty nice.

Crossmember and plate:

First Coat of Rust converter:

OD Chassis Coat 1:

bj house · June 24th, 2008, 09:55 PM

Rockin, I am about 3/4 of the way through the wire harness resto on my 53 then onto the body work like you are doing ;)

Thanks for the motivation.

gmotox · June 24th, 2008, 10:42 PM

pm me if you are looking any parts i rebuilt a 3a a few years ago and have many axle and drivetrain parts for a good deal!!New windshield frame for 3a and nice grill, also have tailgate with slight twist, but repairable!! i also have a few local friends who also have willys and many parts!!!

Looking good so far!! I know what you are going through I had to buy three to build one.

ovrlnd · August 3rd, 2008, 02:44 PM

posting up some of the progress made on this build. it's going well and I just keep plugging along at it. photos are from middle of july to beginning of august.

time to rebuild the front end. drained the fluid and pulled everything apart so it could be cleaned, stripped of rust if needed and repainted. I installed new inner seals, new kingpin bearing and races, new knuckle seals and front hub seals. wheel bearings were fine so I cleaned and repacked them. all new tie rod ends, remove and clean up bell crank and drag link. new wheel cylinders and new brake lines I made (including the "S" lines, which were a pain) LOL

patiently waiting parts

starting to go back together but waiting on the wheel cylinder I forgot to add on my parts order.

the refinished front cover with new stainless hardware

more parts waiting for their turn
shackles before painting

urethane bushing kit for the new shackles (thank's jeeperzcreeperz)

some more frame work

progress on the hood

some hood priming

then I got the rancho 1" replacement springs with black diamond hydraulic shocks for the new suspension.

new crossmember and plate installed

now working on mocking up the windshield. got a replacement inner frame from 4wd hardware. had a problem with the cowl mounts as I didn't have the 2a correct ones so ordered some and was back on track. I am using plexiglas for my mock up

pic of first install (shows the hood painted too)

currently setting up the the wipers and deciding on how to wire them.

FlatFender · August 3rd, 2008, 04:24 PM

good call painting everything while you build it. My dad is kicking himself now for not doing that when we built 3a.

Looks great.

bj house · August 3rd, 2008, 09:38 PM

fantastic progress and great pics thanks for the update very motivating (for me :)

suckyjunk · August 9th, 2008, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bj house

fantastic progress and great pics thanks for the update very motivating (for me :)

X2

ovrlnd · September 5th, 2008, 09:37 PM

got some more done on yancy. disassebled the windshield frame after getting everything fit and got the outer frame painted. took the inner to have glass installed and ordered some parts to finish up the frames. I thought it would be a good idea to coat the tips of the inner latch hooks with plasti-dip, however I am regretting it now and even with minimal latching it is coming off so I will have to re-strip and re-paint those two parts. today (9/8) got the the inner frame back with the glass installed. I had the glass done at Laird glass and those guys did a great job and am very happy with it. pulled the cloth ashphalt loom over the wiper wires and got it all hooked up. still need 3 10/32 stainless button heads to finish the clamps. New cowl seal installed and the inner/outer seal installed which was a major pain, I used tons of soap but still had to glue it back together where it tore in 3 spots but for the time being I can live with it.

the outer painted and installed

pics with new glassed inner frame all assembled and the accessories on it.

and the 1946 plate I got for it. I was excited that the JP were the first two letters.

Jeepaholic · September 6th, 2008, 08:37 AM

Wow looking good

ovrlnd · September 20th, 2008, 09:02 PM

more work started. removed the heater and disassembled the front end of the body and took the grill, tailgate, front fenders and driver seat frame to the strippers. price wasn't bad it was $150 for all of those parts.

sheet metal off and more frame stripping & painting.

finishing the skid plate and generator splash shield.

all the parts bagged, labeled and boxed so I know what goes where. when i get back to test fitting the sheet metal after I fix it all.

Parts back from the paint/rust stripper

some spots on the front fenders with some rot that needs repairing.

Filling in all the holes on the driver fender.

removed portion of the lower inner driver fender where the rot was

both fenders are getting new supports installed as when they get here.

working on one side of the patch panel from above.

camera batteries died but I got all the driver patches installed and then rough ground down all the welds. also welded the 4 holes on the parking lights welded up.

right now the plan is finishing the bodywork on the front end and get everything test fit back together. fabricate a hold down for the battery. I am going to pull out all the wiring and replace it with a new replacement harness. also going to switch the externally regulated alternator currently on there with a 60 amp 10si one wire. also now is going to be the time to decide whether to rebuild/recore the existing radiator or buy a replacement since all is easily accessible/dismantled.
I found a set of original wheels and bought them so those are on their way as well. i did pick up a set of passenger seat pivots and a spare rear end for $20.

dodgeboy · September 20th, 2008, 09:40 PM

nice job keep up the good work!

April 12th, 2008, 07:03 PM	#1
ovrlnd HURL SCOUTS Join Date: 03-23-07 Location: Westland, Michigan Posts: 9,983 iTrader: (14)	Project Yancy 46 CJ2a Build well it's been a couple of months and I have been plugging away at the build for the flatfender. got some progress done so I'll post some pics and update as I go. the build plan: stock drive line: L134, T90, Dana 18, Dana 41 rear, Dana 25 front. Suspension will be a 1" with H shackles. wheels: undecided Tires: 7.00-16 NDT. color will be olive drab it's not going to be an "according to hoyle" restoration. much will stay original but a lot of stuff will be updated. the frame, front hood, windshield, grill, and fenders will stay. the tub will be tossed eventually as it is piece patched together and out of square and too much trouble to fix. either a new tub or one that is in repairable condition. so far the rear axle has been stripped treated, primed and painted. new stainless cover bolts, new rear driver wheel cylinder and new bent rear brakeline with stainless retainer clamps. I have removed all the windshield bracketry, trans covers, boot rings, rear bumpstop blocks, rear floor mount which were all cleaned in the electrolysis tank, then cleaned, primed and painted. no old bolts are being used so I got all new stainless fasteners for the items removed. anything for the frame like the rear crossmember bolts are being replaced with grade 8 units. windshield after all 53 drilled holes from whatever were welded closed and ground smooth before paint removal. some after shots of the windshield frame rear axle work (ignore my greasy finger smears on the cover there LOL!) rear crossmember replacement mocked up more cleaned and painted parts Last edited by ovrlnd; May 5th, 2010 at 08:23 AM.

June 24th, 2008, 08:59 PM	#10
ovrlnd HURL SCOUTS Join Date: 03-23-07 Location: Westland, Michigan Posts: 9,983 iTrader: (14)	got some more progress done but not as much as I would have liked. made the tie in plate from the v-brace to the crossmember. then removed both for prime and painting. removed the muffler to get at the frame in the rear and start the rust removal. some pitting and weld marks but nothing serious. unfortunately I have to do the frame in sections and don't have the room to separate the body so the top of the frame or interference areas will have to wait until I can get at them better. took about 3 hours of working with various wire wheels, scotch brites and the like to get all the areas to the metal and then started the coating with the rust converter. I only took pix after the first coat but you get the idea. once dry I put on the OD chassis paint. it is a little lighter that the other OD I am using but am real happy with the two tone OD. Pic of the driver front brake assembly: The steering wheel: I need a new nut but the wheel itself came out pretty nice. Crossmember and plate: First Coat of Rust converter: OD Chassis Coat 1: Last edited by ovrlnd; June 24th, 2008 at 09:04 PM.

August 3rd, 2008, 02:44 PM	#13
ovrlnd HURL SCOUTS Join Date: 03-23-07 Location: Westland, Michigan Posts: 9,983 iTrader: (14)	posting up some of the progress made on this build. it's going well and I just keep plugging along at it. photos are from middle of july to beginning of august. time to rebuild the front end. drained the fluid and pulled everything apart so it could be cleaned, stripped of rust if needed and repainted. I installed new inner seals, new kingpin bearing and races, new knuckle seals and front hub seals. wheel bearings were fine so I cleaned and repacked them. all new tie rod ends, remove and clean up bell crank and drag link. new wheel cylinders and new brake lines I made (including the "S" lines, which were a pain) LOL patiently waiting parts starting to go back together but waiting on the wheel cylinder I forgot to add on my parts order. the refinished front cover with new stainless hardware more parts waiting for their turn shackles before painting urethane bushing kit for the new shackles (thank's jeeperzcreeperz) some more frame work progress on the hood some hood priming then I got the rancho 1" replacement springs with black diamond hydraulic shocks for the new suspension. new crossmember and plate installed now working on mocking up the windshield. got a replacement inner frame from 4wd hardware. had a problem with the cowl mounts as I didn't have the 2a correct ones so ordered some and was back on track. I am using plexiglas for my mock up pic of first install (shows the hood painted too) currently setting up the the wipers and deciding on how to wire them. Last edited by ovrlnd; August 3rd, 2008 at 02:50 PM.

April 12th, 2008, 08:08 PM	#4
Jeepaholic Axle Guru Extraordinaire Join Date: 04-08-06 Location: Owosso Posts: 7,021 iTrader: (113)	Looks good, where did you get the new rear cross member from? I need one also.

April 12th, 2008, 08:45 PM	#5
ovrlnd HURL SCOUTS Join Date: 03-23-07 Location: Westland, Michigan Posts: 9,983 iTrader: (14)	I've been ordering most of my stuff from willys overland down in toledo. the website tho does not have the updated price ($95) it still says $78 at least under the 2a section. I been really pleased with their stuff. www.willysoverland.com. you can also check out www.walcks4wd.com

May 29th, 2008, 07:02 PM	#6
ovrlnd HURL SCOUTS Join Date: 03-23-07 Location: Westland, Michigan Posts: 9,983 iTrader: (14)	ok, so the pix are late but I have been a busy one lately. here are some pix of the work on the windshield, cut out the skin where someone had previously attached a mirror (earlier pix show a patch of blue bondo in this area) and welded in a new clean patch. have been doing some hood work on the new to me hood and it is in the process of being stripped. the w.s. frame has a first coat of primer and the holes that were previously used by sheet metal screws have been drilled and tapped for 10/32 hardware including the holes for the cowl seal. the leather gaskets for the pto cover, master cylinder access cover and trans cover are awaiting the second oil stain but looking good. I had my mother in law tear down the lockouts and clean them up. one is still awaiting finishing and the other was put on for a test fit (hence the blue sealer until my replacement gasket set arrives). missing pix still of the refinished steering wheel and the driver side hub, drum, backing plate I removed stripped, painted and replaced. but soon all the front brake lines will be redone by myself as I begin to tear apart the front axle. going good and having fun.

May 29th, 2008, 09:12 PM	#7
suckyjunk Senior Member Join Date: 03-26-06 Location: New Lothrop, MI Posts: 815 iTrader: (23)	Looks good, I just installed 33x10.50 TSL's tonight on my CJ 5 with 1" body lift and stock suspension. I think you will be fine with a steel body and small suspension lift.

May 29th, 2008, 09:41 PM	#8
bj house Senior Member Join Date: 06-02-06 Location: Auburn Hills, MI Posts: 5,301 iTrader: (4)	can I borrow your mother in law ;)

June 24th, 2008, 09:55 PM	#11
bj house Senior Member Join Date: 06-02-06 Location: Auburn Hills, MI Posts: 5,301 iTrader: (4)	Rockin, I am about 3/4 of the way through the wire harness resto on my 53 then onto the body work like you are doing ;) Thanks for the motivation.

June 24th, 2008, 10:42 PM	#12
gmotox Senior Member Join Date: 06-08-08 Location: Waterford/Michigan 48327 Posts: 2,383 iTrader: (97)	pm me if you are looking any parts i rebuilt a 3a a few years ago and have many axle and drivetrain parts for a good deal!!New windshield frame for 3a and nice grill, also have tailgate with slight twist, but repairable!! i also have a few local friends who also have willys and many parts!!! Looking good so far!! I know what you are going through I had to buy three to build one.

August 3rd, 2008, 04:24 PM	#14
FlatFender Tap Tap Splat Join Date: 11-05-05 Location: Raleigh NC Posts: 15,269 iTrader: (1)	good call painting everything while you build it. My dad is kicking himself now for not doing that when we built 3a. Looks great.

August 3rd, 2008, 09:38 PM	#15
bj house Senior Member Join Date: 06-02-06 Location: Auburn Hills, MI Posts: 5,301 iTrader: (4)	fantastic progress and great pics thanks for the update very motivating (for me :)

September 5th, 2008, 09:37 PM	#17
ovrlnd HURL SCOUTS Join Date: 03-23-07 Location: Westland, Michigan Posts: 9,983 iTrader: (14)	got some more done on yancy. disassebled the windshield frame after getting everything fit and got the outer frame painted. took the inner to have glass installed and ordered some parts to finish up the frames. I thought it would be a good idea to coat the tips of the inner latch hooks with plasti-dip, however I am regretting it now and even with minimal latching it is coming off so I will have to re-strip and re-paint those two parts. today (9/8) got the the inner frame back with the glass installed. I had the glass done at Laird glass and those guys did a great job and am very happy with it. pulled the cloth ashphalt loom over the wiper wires and got it all hooked up. still need 3 10/32 stainless button heads to finish the clamps. New cowl seal installed and the inner/outer seal installed which was a major pain, I used tons of soap but still had to glue it back together where it tore in 3 spots but for the time being I can live with it. the outer painted and installed pics with new glassed inner frame all assembled and the accessories on it. and the 1946 plate I got for it. I was excited that the JP were the first two letters.

September 6th, 2008, 08:37 AM	#18
Jeepaholic Axle Guru Extraordinaire Join Date: 04-08-06 Location: Owosso Posts: 7,021 iTrader: (113)	Wow looking good

September 20th, 2008, 09:02 PM	#19
ovrlnd HURL SCOUTS Join Date: 03-23-07 Location: Westland, Michigan Posts: 9,983 iTrader: (14)	more work started. removed the heater and disassembled the front end of the body and took the grill, tailgate, front fenders and driver seat frame to the strippers. price wasn't bad it was $150 for all of those parts. sheet metal off and more frame stripping & painting. finishing the skid plate and generator splash shield. all the parts bagged, labeled and boxed so I know what goes where. when i get back to test fitting the sheet metal after I fix it all. Parts back from the paint/rust stripper some spots on the front fenders with some rot that needs repairing. Filling in all the holes on the driver fender. removed portion of the lower inner driver fender where the rot was both fenders are getting new supports installed as when they get here. working on one side of the patch panel from above. camera batteries died but I got all the driver patches installed and then rough ground down all the welds. also welded the 4 holes on the parking lights welded up. right now the plan is finishing the bodywork on the front end and get everything test fit back together. fabricate a hold down for the battery. I am going to pull out all the wiring and replace it with a new replacement harness. also going to switch the externally regulated alternator currently on there with a 60 amp 10si one wire. also now is going to be the time to decide whether to rebuild/recore the existing radiator or buy a replacement since all is easily accessible/dismantled. I found a set of original wheels and bought them so those are on their way as well. i did pick up a set of passenger seat pivots and a spare rear end for $20.

September 20th, 2008, 09:40 PM	#20
dodgeboy redneck truck club Join Date: 08-20-07 Location: new hudson / ellsworth mi Posts: 1,493 iTrader: (21)	nice job keep up the good work!