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Old April 7th, 2008, 09:54 AM   #1
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Default Anyone have a metal bender for 3/16"

Does anyone have a bender that will put a couple 90deg bends in a 3/16"thk x 3" wide piece of metal? I need to make a few patches for the frame and I can't get a tight enough bend with my roofing hammer and vise :tonka:
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Old April 7th, 2008, 10:26 AM   #2
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did you try to heat the metal up with a torch first?
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Old April 7th, 2008, 10:28 AM   #3
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did you try to heat the metal up with a torch first?
No I didn't. Would that make it take a tighter bend? Does it have to be heated 'red'?
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Old April 7th, 2008, 10:31 AM   #4
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yes and yes
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Old April 7th, 2008, 10:35 AM   #5
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Sweet! I get to play blacksmith tonight! Thanks for the tip. I have some spare 'trial' pieces to experiment with.....

Still interested if someone has a bender though.....
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Old April 7th, 2008, 03:43 PM   #6
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Old April 7th, 2008, 04:12 PM   #7
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Why not just do it in 3 peices and but weld the two ends?
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Old April 7th, 2008, 04:16 PM   #8
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Ask me in a few months when I get my brake.

But just noticed its only 3" wide.. hell yeah, just heat it cherry read and blacksmith it..
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Old April 7th, 2008, 07:34 PM   #9
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Any sheet metal shop can do that with a brake for ductwork. Just have them set the nose back some. I could do it but am a long way from you.
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Old April 7th, 2008, 07:39 PM   #10
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Any sheet metal shop can do that with a brake for ductwork. Just have them set the nose back some. I could do it but am a long way from you.
3/16" thick?
That's a bit thicker than sheetmetal, the sheetmetal brake we use at work is max cap 0.100"
3/16" is 0.187", that would require a rather heavy duty brake.
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Old April 7th, 2008, 07:45 PM   #11
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But it's only 3" wide, I'm guessing that .100 is for 8' or so. I've done it alot on our 10' 16ga brake with narrow 1/4" stuff. IT's all about adjusting things correctly.

BTW 16ga is "about" 1/16" thick or .0625
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Old April 7th, 2008, 07:55 PM   #12
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But it's only 3" wide, I'm guessing that .100 is for 8' or so. I've done it alot on our 10' 16ga brake with narrow 1/4" stuff. IT's all about adjusting things correctly.

BTW 16ga is "about" 1/16" thick or .0625
It might work, I've overloaded ours at work too, but a shop might not want to risk it's equipment.

I use the oxy/actylene torch to heat the steel in a vise, and hold pressure on it until it starts to bend. If I can do it without it going cherry red it's less likely to crack later.
One other thing if torching it- after making the bend, heat the entire piece to a very dull red, about the same as what was needed to make the bend. This will stress relieve the steel and it will keep the shape better.
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Old April 7th, 2008, 08:00 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by BlooMule View Post
It might work, I've overloaded ours at work too, but a shop might not want to risk it's equipment.

I use the oxy/actylene torch to heat the steel in a vise, and hold pressure on it until it starts to bend. If I can do it without it going cherry red it's less likely to crack later.
One other thing if torching it- after making the bend, heat the entire piece to a very dull red, about the same as what was needed to make the bend. This will stress relieve the steel and it will keep the shape better.
Holy shit, someone that has half a clue about metallurgy!


Yeah, he's right... The dull red heating will temper the steel, so it won't be as brittle.
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Old April 7th, 2008, 08:06 PM   #14
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the redder the peice gets the softer it will make that spot. witch will make it weak over time when stressed. try the heat the hole area until you get the ghost effect that follows your torch.
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Old April 7th, 2008, 08:11 PM   #15
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the redder the peice gets the softer it will make that spot. witch will make it weak over time when stressed. try the heat the hole area until you get the ghost effect that follows your torch.
Not necessarily... You could oil quench it after it's heated up, and that would actually harden it uniformly. Then, heat it dull red to temper it.
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Old April 7th, 2008, 08:14 PM   #16
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Holy shit, someone that has half a clue about metallurgy!


Yeah, he's right... The dull red heating will temper the steel, so it won't be as brittle.
Been doing metal fab work since 1986 in an industrial environment.....
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Old April 7th, 2008, 08:15 PM   #17
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Been doing metal fab work since 1986 in an industrial environment.....
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Old April 8th, 2008, 06:19 AM   #18
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Quote:
Why not just do it in 3 peices and but weld the two ends?
That could work. I just thought it would be easier to bend it. I'm going to try the bending tonight. No time last night.
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Old April 8th, 2008, 06:26 AM   #19
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My question would be what part of the frame is he patching that needs 3/16 steel???? Seems a bit heavy compared to the rest of the frame...
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Old April 8th, 2008, 06:48 AM   #20
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if you can't do it with a torch let me know I can do it at work I think. I know I can bend .50 SS on it 6 foot wide.
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