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Old April 1st, 2008, 07:19 PM   #1
Rebel2345
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Default 22RE running rough.

Last night I adjusted the valves, and it stuttered and wanted to stall when I accidently switched two vacuum lines that are right next to eachother. It ran GREAT after I put them back the way they should be, but it was already at temperature at that point.

I followed my manual and adjusted the valves to .008 on intake, .012 on exhaust, just a little bit of drag on the feeler. Followed the patterns shown, blah blah.

But this morning when I started it to let it warm up, I came back out to see that it stalled at some point during the time I go back in the house. On my way to and from work, it stutteres a little bit and kind of acts like it wants to stall when just idling, but doesnt. It hesitates a lot, and even backfires once or twice during acceleration. When I go wide open throttle, it will kind of run normal but still feels gutless. Once it's warm, it runs pretty normal, but still a little more gutless than it was before.


I noticed that it doesnt even have an O2 sensor, which I'm sure it should. But before that it still ran alright, never stalled on me before. I know thats not helping though, seems like it goes through a LOT of gas. I also have one oddball plug wire because one from my new set got melted because of a fire under the hood, when a piece of paper caught the header on my way to work.

I still dont know a lot about these engines, so I thought I might ask here since I cant test or replace everything they mention in the manual.

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Old April 1st, 2008, 08:04 PM   #2
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welcome to owning such an awesome engine.

Sounds like you over tightened the valves at least to some degree which is compounding some sort of problem. You will never get rid of the ticking noise those engines make....

Mine also got shit for gas mileage.
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Old April 1st, 2008, 08:30 PM   #3
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Haha, thanks. I'm going to a 4.3l when this thing dies.

I realise the ticking wont go away, I just thought I would check them just for the fact that I would know that it was done. I also got to look at the timing chain tensioner, which is still the stock plastic one. But it looked to be in good condition.

I'll go back over them and re-adjust them, see what happens.

And I guess 40-50 dollars of gas covering 130+ miles a week isnt too bad.

I just want my daily driver Chevy pickup back, it was a lot more comfortable for my 6'2" fat ass to drive, and didnt give me this much trouble. Get the tranny replace in the Chevy, and I wont have to worry about working on this so much. I'll have all the time in the world between wheeling trips. Sucks driving an old truck you know nothing about.
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Old April 2nd, 2008, 07:27 AM   #4
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what year is it? is it a pickup?
i would go back over those vacuum lines, and all connectors and make sure you have them hooked up right. if you have odd-ball wires, just go spend the money and get a premium matching set of plug wires so you are sure that's not the issue. if the o2 sensor is missing, i'd replace that for the 40 dollars it costs also. 40-50 dollars for 130 miles is like 10 mpg. i get right around 20.
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Old April 2nd, 2008, 07:10 PM   #5
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Yeah, its an '84 pickup that was 22RE swapped. Not sure of the motor year. But I'm on 33's with stock 4.10 gears and no O2 sensor.

And yeah, next paycheck I will be getting the O2 sensor. I'm going to find out if the plug wires had a warranty, if so I'll stop and pick up another new set. Even if they arent, I will get another new set, just depends of funds since the O2 sensor costs $100.



Weird thing is, today it ran great. Didnt stutter or stall or anything, felt good and powerful for a 4 banger.

Kind of leads me to believe that since it was raining yesterday and it was sunny today, that water was effecting some part of the ignition system.
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Old April 8th, 2008, 10:32 PM   #6
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where did you see an o2 sensor for 100 bucks? check carquest, they have them for 40-50 dollars last time i looked.
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Old May 16th, 2008, 09:09 PM   #7
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33's on stock tires will kill you too
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Old May 16th, 2008, 11:34 PM   #8
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Yeah, trying to fix that. Going 5.29's on 35's.

I also found that whenever it rained, the passenger floorboard would get wet and thats the only time it acts up. So I'm thinking the computer it getting damp, not enough to kill it, but enough to mess with it and thats whats causing the problem. Any other time, even out wheelin and getting everything under the hood wet, it runs fine. But when the passenger floors are wet from rain, it runs weird. So I patched up some holes I found and I'm waiting to see what happens.
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Old June 5th, 2008, 12:28 PM   #9
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The 2 22RE vehicles I drive most have problems running roughwhen it is damp out especially the last couple days.
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Old June 6th, 2008, 05:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOGDOG View Post
The 2 22RE vehicles I drive most have problems running roughwhen it is damp out especially the last couple days.
my truck was like that too, was kinda weird.
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Old June 16th, 2008, 10:17 AM   #11
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The ecm on those is mounted in a pretty lousy place. check the ecm case and all the connectors. use some grey rtv silicone to seal the case and connectors and your water problem will be gone. i have seen a loose connection for an injector and it would cause the engine to shrug and miss. Try doing the wiggle test on the wires. Have you done a compression or cyl. leak down test on it, to make sure the valves are closing all the way? feel free to pm me or email me and I will help you out the best I can.
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Old June 23rd, 2008, 09:30 PM   #12
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An engine knock senser will have the same symptom but, it would probably throw a check engine light.
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Old August 31st, 2008, 12:05 AM   #13
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Grr.. still having this problem. Checked all of the above, even waterproofed the ECM and still does this after it rains.



I wish I knew something about these damn motors. Cant wait till I can 4.3 swap it..
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Old August 31st, 2008, 11:54 AM   #14
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hey rebel is that your truck in your avitar? if so post some pics of it, it looks like my old truck.
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Old August 31st, 2008, 12:22 PM   #15
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When I bought it.






After I bobbed a bed and put it on there.



And because the first two pictures make it look as stiff as morning wood



And what it looks like right now.

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Old August 31st, 2008, 12:59 PM   #16
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i dig it man.
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Old August 31st, 2008, 11:40 PM   #17
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That is joe's old truck. He got the motor from me. Did you make sure that there is not water getting in the cap there is a rubber boot that goes over the cap. Try to find one if it not on there. Do you want to get rid of the high pinion front diff?

P.S I think the motor was a 1987 or 1988

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Old September 1st, 2008, 09:03 AM   #18
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I dug up some pics of you truck when joe owned it we took it to slade KY. bad ass wheeling















That was all the good ones I have of it I like the new front bumper way better than the one joe. I hope the welding is better.
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Old September 1st, 2008, 09:39 AM   #19
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Haha, thats what that boot is for!

Yeah, it was Joe Wolford right? More than happy that I drove to Jackson to pick it up. I just need to keep changing stuff so I can atleast stop saying "Well, i pretty much bought it how it sits."

Quote:
Do you want to get rid of the high pinion front diff?
I was thinking about maybe trying to swap someone that has a set of 5.29 or 4.88 LP thirds with mine. But I kind of like having the HP, I've already almost smashed it on some stuff, if I wouldnt have had the HP I would have probably blown the yoke out.

Just depends on how tired I get of having too high of gears.
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Old September 1st, 2008, 10:31 AM   #20
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ya that hp diff was mine and I gave it to joe you will want to keep it. I need one for the suzuki I am building . You should invest in hysteer for that thing I can get you Trail gear kit for $299. We broke the drag link on the waterfall in the pic.
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