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Old March 3rd, 2008, 06:36 PM   #21
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did you check with the manufacturer for a replacement ribbon?
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 07:24 PM   #22
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PM daniel my son, he can give you his brothers number.

or pm me and i will give you his number. the kid is awsome!

hes a computer wiz and has been courted buy the secret service and homeland security and just 18 years old!
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 08:21 PM   #23
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If you want to have me look at it, I can. I can't guarantee that it can be fixed without looking at it in person, but I can say there's probably not anyone more qualified on this board.

The amber color plastic is Polyimide (brand name is Kapton), its very heat resistant. We do displays all day long, although I don't usually have to repair broken flex cables. But I have no problem doing 0.5mm and smaller pitch. I've got a stereo microscope on my desk, makes it easier as my eyes get worse.

So, you killed the backlight to the TFT screen, then?

I'll pm my desk phone, if you want to bring it by tomorrow, I'm only 10 minutes from your shop. Can take a look sometime during the day and drop it on my way home.
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 08:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
If you want to have me look at it, I can. I can't guarantee that it can be fixed without looking at it in person, but I can say there's probably not anyone more qualified on this board.

The amber color plastic is Polyimide (brand name is Kapton), its very heat resistant. We do displays all day long, although I don't usually have to repair broken flex cables. But I have no problem doing 0.5mm and smaller pitch. I've got a stereo microscope on my desk, makes it easier as my eyes get worse.

So, you killed the backlight to the TFT screen, then?

I'll pm my desk phone, if you want to bring it by tomorrow, I'm only 10 minutes from your shop. Can take a look sometime during the day and drop it on my way home.
Awesome, I'll call you tomorrow, and swing by!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeperz Creeperz View Post
I have mad soldering skills....

You cannot fix that ribbon, however. You'll have to run wires to replace it. Does it have to move or is the ribbon there so you can disconnect whatever it's attached to?

Bring $$$$


If Jesus can't figure it out, I'll bring $$$
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 08:33 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeperz Creeperz View Post
I have mad soldering skills....

You cannot fix that ribbon, however. You'll have to run wires to replace it. Does it have to move or is the ribbon there so you can disconnect whatever it's attached to?

Bring $$$$
If its what he says, the anode/cathode lines for the LED backlight, then you need to disassemble the TFT module to get at the LEDs where you can solder them. Which is a messy and often distructive thing with TFTs. Usually, the LEDs are soldered directly onto the flex itself.

I wouldn't chalk it up to being impossible to fix, just difficult.

I'll take a scrap TFT or two, tomorrow morning and practice scraping through the kapton. I did several ribbons last fall, when we had to connect a new brand of TFT display to the instrument cluster I'm designing, and didn't have the layout for the new pinout yet.
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 08:37 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Usually, the LEDs are soldered directly onto the flex itself.
.
Yep.. I took the complete lcd apart to get at the LED's which I thought would be an easy patch job. Way beyond my soldering skill level.
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 09:18 PM   #27
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Should have said something about it tonight! I solder at work all the time, no big deal.
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 09:45 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
If you want to have me look at it, I can. I can't guarantee that it can be fixed without looking at it in person, but I can say there's probably not anyone more qualified on this board.


There probably isn't, sorry Hag gar, couldn't resist that one :tonka:

Actually, as much electronic mumbo jumbo that you talk, you are probably right.
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 09:48 PM   #29
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I just had my acetylene tank filled. Bring it over I will weld er mean solder it for you.:tonka:
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 09:49 PM   #30
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PM pyrowaves he solders wires all day long im sure he could do that
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 09:49 PM   #31
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Used to do this, working at a TV repair shop.
Unfortunately, years of factory work have robbed my hands of nearly all feeling, and they shake a little when I try to concentrate. Can't build model cars anymore either.
Still have a butane powered iron with a very fine tip, I used to use a jeweler's loupe and an x-acto knife to repair ribbon cable connections on those 2" LCD TV sets.
If it wasn't so critical for you, I'd have taken on the job just for the challenge, but I can no longer guarantee success.

Just curious though, my old Handspring PDA would let you log in with a password thru the computer when it was placed in the sync cradle, isn't there a way to do that on yours?
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 09:59 PM   #32
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Haggar is more daring than I. Last one I did I had used the super glue type heatless soldier. worked for what I needed.
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 10:07 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato2k5 View Post
dude thats such a great idea! Atleast if anything it will work long enough to retrive the data from it... than try to get it fixed.

I put together a computer for my TBI setup... and had to solder all the resistors, diods, caps, leds, etc, onto a blank board. My dad bought me a nice soldering station with a dial to adjust the heat range. Really nice small tip. Can be bought for around $30?
fyi, a good variable heat soldering iron usually runs closer to $100. I have done enough to know that any 15w $30 pos regardless of what brand name is on it does not cut it especially unsoldering.

Sounds like a wire that small might be a job for the battery powered gizmo my dad gave me a couple years ago. You know the one that you can touch immediately after they show it soldering all kinds of shit.

I have never had a use for it.

Sorry other than that I have nothing constructive to add. Come fix my Wii after you fix your PDA. Did you ever get that special screw driver ?
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 10:09 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackSaw View Post


There probably isn't, sorry Hag gar, couldn't resist that one :tonka:

Actually, as much electronic mumbo jumbo that you talk, you are probably right.
The trick with this, is its not just soldering, but working with flex/FPC cable. I'm not a technician, but I do enough hand modifcation to do any kind of solder jobs. Every cluster we make has some kind of display, so we do tons of modifications of FPC cables.

But if the flex is accessable where the LEDs are, then it'd be just as possible to go in and add new wires.

Something like this is easier than when we have to drill out vias to hit a certain ball on a BGA part, or solder wires to 0.2mm traces or micro pins.

I'm doing a TFT design now, its been driving me nuts, trying to squeeze it onto 4 layers and manage good signal timing. We are to the point that the signals are so fast, that the speed of electricity through copper needs to be taken into account (around 10 picoseconds per inch, based on our measurements).
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 10:11 PM   #35
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He said hand modification:tonka:
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 10:15 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
The trick with this, is its not just soldering, but working with flex/FPC cable. I'm not a technician, but I do enough hand modifcation to do any kind of solder jobs. Every cluster we make has some kind of display, so we do tons of modifications of FPC cables.

But if the flex is accessable where the LEDs are, then it'd be just as possible to go in and add new wires.

Something like this is easier than when we have to drill out vias to hit a certain ball on a BGA part, or solder wires to 0.2mm traces or micro pins.

I'm doing a TFT design now, its been driving me nuts, trying to squeeze it onto 4 layers and manage good signal timing. We are to the point that the signals are so fast, that the speed of electricity through copper needs to be taken into account (around 10 picoseconds per inch, based on our measurements).

please stop

you are making my head hurt
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Old March 3rd, 2008, 11:37 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
The trick with this, is its not just soldering, but working with flex/FPC cable. I'm not a technician, but I do enough hand modifcation to do any kind of solder jobs. Every cluster we make has some kind of display, so we do tons of modifications of FPC cables.

But if the flex is accessable where the LEDs are, then it'd be just as possible to go in and add new wires.

Something like this is easier than when we have to drill out vias to hit a certain ball on a BGA part, or solder wires to 0.2mm traces or micro pins.

I'm doing a TFT design now, its been driving me nuts, trying to squeeze it onto 4 layers and manage good signal timing. We are to the point that the signals are so fast, that the speed of electricity through copper needs to be taken into account (around 10 picoseconds per inch, based on our measurements).
My son is doing this for a class project right now.. in kindergarten :tonka:

J/K; my money's on Jesus !
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Old March 4th, 2008, 08:07 AM   #38
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I can solder anything! Not to brag, but I have 3 soldering certifications. I can also solder under a microscope if the wires are too small.

Haggar - where do you work? I worked at Denso designing instrument clusters and did a 6-layer TFT there. Now I am across the state jamming 3.5" TFT's into rearview mirrors.
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Old March 4th, 2008, 08:50 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by zook < jeep View Post
I can solder anything! Not to brag, but I have 3 soldering certifications. I can also solder under a microscope if the wires are too small.

Haggar - where do you work? I worked at Denso designing instrument clusters and did a 6-layer TFT there. Now I am across the state jamming 3.5" TFT's into rearview mirrors.
VDO, cramming 3.5" TFTs into clusters...

Yeah, Denso... you guys could afford 6 layer boards, you were always the high price option...
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Old March 4th, 2008, 02:07 PM   #40
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Its all fixed. The flex piece was short, didn't feel like scraping it down, because of the pressure it would have put on the other two flex cables. Those were the power/return for the LEDs, so I ran new wires in there to the felx cable. Powered it up, lit up fine for me. I dumped everything on the memory, for future blackmail use..

Here's a pic of the repair..

Last edited by Haggar; October 27th, 2009 at 10:30 AM.
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