Go Back   Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > 4x4 Talk > Axle Tech
GL4x4 Live! GL4x4 Casino







Search
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old March 1st, 2008, 10:04 AM   #1
djmacc
Member
 
Join Date: 02-10-08
Location: mi
Posts: 36
iTrader: (1)
What are my options?

I just installed a 78 Ford D60 axle under my 82 jeep J10. It's setup with a SOA and 6 in spring lift. This gives me a 35 in long front driveshaft and 29 degree angle with a 2 degree up angle on Tcase. Put all that together and you have 2 binding ujoints when engaged. No problem because I was reading on Pirate that there is a joint that can go as far as 41 degrees. So I call to order the joint and it turns out that the ujoint at the diff is a size and type that they do not make. So here is what I think my options are:

1. Cut my perches, knuckle welds and rotate the diff and point it at the Tcase then reset the knuckles to the proper caster.
Don't really want to do this as I am not much of a welder.

2. Change the yoke on the diff and driveshaft to a size that the Chris Woods 41 degree ujoint is made.

Any other ideas? I open to whatever. I need to drive my rig to the trail but I don't need to operate in 4 wheel drive at freeway speeds. I also have a couple of other questions:

1. What is the maximum angle a double cardan can operate?

2. Can a double cardan be attached at either end of the drive line? (diff or Tcase)


82 J10 SOA 6" SPRINGS D60-D70 W/DETROIT LOCKERS 38x15.5 TSL'S on 12" M/T classics 460 V-8 C-6 Custom EFIS EFI AND HYDROBOOST
djmacc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 1st, 2008, 10:13 AM   #2
OldSailor
AKA GreyShrink
 
OldSailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: 10-29-06
Location: Livonia, MI
Posts: 521
iTrader: (0)
I've never seen a double-cardan (CV) joint at the diff end of either a front or rear driveshaft. They're always at the t-case end of the shafts.

Were it me, I'd get a CV joint installed on the t-case end of the front driveshaft, and then rotate the front axle a little so it points more toward the t-case output. You can do this with wedges, but you gotta be careful to watch your caster. If it screws up the caster too much, then you have no choice but to cut the knuckles off and re-weld them on, along with new spring perches. A lot of work, and that stuff is best done by a professional welder.

Just asking, but why do you have so much lift? I'm guessing that with the SOA and the 6-inch springs, you're got in the neighborhood of 11 inches of lift. What size tires are you running?

If you need that much lift to clear the large tires, you might be better off using a lesser amount of lift and then installing a body lift and cutting your wheelwell openings for additional clearance. Maybe some Bushmaster cut-out flares? The advantage of doing it that way is a lower center of gravity and the vehicle is less tippy.
OldSailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 1st, 2008, 12:46 PM   #3
djmacc
Member
 
Join Date: 02-10-08
Location: mi
Posts: 36
iTrader: (1)
Part of the reason for the lift is economics. I went SOA and I already had 6" springs on it and did not want to fork out the cash for another set. I am running 38x15.5 TSL's and there is really not alot of room to spare even with this much lift. I did not go with cutting the fenders and a body lift because my J10 still has a the stock fender flares and I want to maintain the stock look. Maybe I can split the difference up front by installing wedges and see how it steers or in the end I just might have to do it the hardway and cut off the knuckles.
djmacc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 3rd, 2008, 05:04 AM   #4
Disturban
Senior Member
 
Disturban's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-27-08
Location: Lowell, MI
Posts: 2,794
iTrader: (2)
Option #3...drop your transfer case?
Disturban is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 3rd, 2008, 08:02 AM   #5
Fullsize4life
Kicking Cancers ASS
 
Fullsize4life's Avatar
 
Join Date: 07-25-06
Location: Hart, Mi (next to silver lake)
Posts: 18,757
iTrader: (7)
With a 78 axle being a hp you should have decent angle if you use some wedges under yoiu springs. Unless you are skilled welder and really know what you are doing i dont recomend cutting and rotating you knuckels. If you have to have someone help that has done it before. Try the wedges and see where that gets you. I have seen one person use a CV joint at the front axle, i dont know if it was on purpose but it seemed to work and it was on a 78 f-150 with a 44 in the front. Try it and see, if it works it works.
Fullsize4life is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 3rd, 2008, 04:42 PM   #6
djmacc
Member
 
Join Date: 02-10-08
Location: mi
Posts: 36
iTrader: (1)
I think I have some good news. It turns out that the hi angle ujoint that will work will fit my diff side of my drive shaft. I stopped in at extreme 4x4 and Jason said he could hook me up with a hi-angle cv joint on the tcase side so I think I got a plan. Thanks for all the advise guys.
djmacc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > 4x4 Talk > Axle Tech
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:46 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin, Copyright 2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2005 - 2012 Cracker Enterprises - Powered by Linux
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=
Page generated in 0.10337 seconds with 22 queries