|February 24th, 2008, 02:02 PM||#1|
I put the Ick in Dick.
Join Date: 11-10-05
Polaris PERC and UNI filters mod
I just completed my sled and took it for a ride so I am just doing a quick writeup.
I was having problems with snow in the airbox when riding in powder and I decided to eliminate the problem with a set of UNI filters.
Step 1: The jackshaft is almost directly inline with the intake of the carbs so I had to do some creative adjustments to make them work. First I bought a set of angled filters to raise them up. I still didn't have enough clearance to go over the jackshaft so I was contemplating making a shield when I remembered seeing a jackshaft guard on a newer Polaris...... after scanning my memory I remembered it was on a new FST. I ordered the jackshaft guard and with a little bending it was a perfect fit. I riveted the guard to the tunnel and I put the filters on after oiling them. I tucked the vent lines that previously went to the airbox under the outer foam layer to act the same as before.
Step 2: I had to mess with the carbs to get them right but overall they are much better than before and make great power. I ended up adding more fuel on the pilot circuit and dropping the needle down one notch as it was really rich in the midrange. Topend power is amazing to say the least it feels like a 700 now and I have to add more weight to the clutch. It doesn't load up while idling anymore which is a huge bonus.
Polaris has sold a factory PERC (Polaris Electronic Reverse Control) since 2003 but it was only meant for the '03 and newer sleds. I really wanted reverse on my sled but I had an '01 600 motor in my '03 ProX chassis. I decided to do a little research and give it a shot. I bought a PERC kit for a 600 XCSP and ordered a flywheel for a '03 and newer sled. I found that the stator, crank, water pump, and all other parts were unchanged through 2005. The kit includes a CDI, Oil pump, wiring harness, ignition harness, and driven clutch.
Step 1: In the ProX chassis you have to remove the motor to get the recoil and flywheel off so out she came. While I had it out I also put the new oil pump on. I used my stock wiring harness as I didn't need the reverse light to work on my dash but now would be the time to install it as it runs under the motor. I reinstalled the motor and removed the ignition harness from the old CDI system. The new ignition harness which connects the CDI, coil, and stator together is the key component to the PERC system. It contains the connector for the PERC button which is what you need to interface with the CDI. I have a ProX and because of that I had to reuse my Dragon button as a PERC switch. Luckily I still had it so I put it back on and connected it. I had a TEAM secondary but I needed a reverse compatible helix, I had ordered one and installed it. I connected all of the other wires, premixed my gas because of the new oil pump, and fired it up. I pushed the button and......
Step 2: Not enough research. I grabbed the manual and started looking for something wrong with my setup. I finally tracked it down to an ungrounded wire. As it turns out in stock form the PERC button's white wire is grounded through the hand warmers. Using a scotch lock i grounded the white wire to an unused brown wire and tried it again.....
It works! Yes I can back out of a spot now!
And that is how I did what was supposed to be impossible.