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Old February 22nd, 2008, 09:59 PM   #81
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Here are some more pics that happened LOCALLY to one of our fellow members IIRC...









Be safe guys (and gals!)
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 10:52 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsumotorhead View Post
on top of that, i'm man enough to admit when i'm stuck and let off the gas before 100% of movement is lost. So i still have 6-10" to move around (in most cases) that way just before the strap is fully taught, i gun it and get the vehicle moving, it usually works great.
well put. I too lay off the pedal and winch or yank when it is appearant that I am stuck.
I have put the hood up during winching too along with the blanket on the cable
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 11:04 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UP_ROKTOY View Post
This came up in another thread today, we have had a lot of new members join gl4x4 in the last year and it has been a while since we have discussed this.

Please use proper tow points, proper towing procedures, and care when doing a vehicle recovery.

This shit is serious business, people get hurt, dies, put holes in their hoods, etc.

I will get a picture of what a measly little tow hook did to the hood of my jeep when it let loose from another vehicle.

I do not want any pictures of what tow hooks and D-Rings have done to people.

This weekend is the chili run, there will be a LOT of people there, and there will be a lot of stuck vehicles in the mud, snow and ice. BE CAREFUL and use proper techniques.

If you do not know ask. If you see something unsafe, knock the person out of the way and show them how to do it safely. do not just stand by and talk about how dangerous it looks/is, go do something about it.

I would hope that others will chime in with proper techniques as I need to get back to work.

Thanks,

UP_ROKTOY and the safe recovery team.
dice
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 08:30 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak81 View Post
Here are some more pics that happened LOCALLY to one of our fellow members IIRC...









Be safe guys (and gals!)

I don't think a 2 inch strap is good for any more than a stock jeep or light pulls.

Also one of the hundreds of examples not to use a clevice to connect two straps
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 08:34 AM   #85
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For the record, I stopped UP_Roktoy from pulling a Jeep with a chain that was attached to his hitch ball yesterday.

:tonka:
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 08:43 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder View Post
For the record, I stopped UP_Roktoy from pulling a Jeep with a chain that was attached to his hitch ball yesterday.

:tonka:
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 12:06 PM   #87
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ok whats the opinion of this set up? 2 straps we'll say 4" 40,000 lb equal length. any pro's or con's it looks like it would create a more load distributing pull provided it's in a straight line...or even if it's on an angle it would pull both side of the stuck in the same direction.
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 12:25 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
For a jeep I prefer a 2" strap. A strap is meant to stretch using it's kenetic energy to pull the stuck vehicle. Not be a solid rigid member like a chain. I hate seeing people use an oversized strap that won't stretch at all and ends up pulling just like a chain. That's one of the reasons that tow hooks get ripped off of vehicles. It's that solid jerk because the oversize strap doesn't do it's job. The comment above about a hook pulling part of the frame away tells me that it was being jerked super hard and more than once.

The real point is that if you have to hit it hard enough to break a 2" strap getting a jeep or smaller vehicle, you should stop before that and use a winch.
Yes it was stuck pretty bad however did not seem like anything that should have ripped the hook out. We did try winching it out after the fact and the only option then was forward because ofno more rear towpoint and we stalled out a 9k winch trying to do so. End result was getting a tractor to lift the front end up then winch forward
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 12:30 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak450r View Post
ok whats the opinion of this set up? 2 straps we'll say 4" 40,000 lb equal length. any pro's or con's it looks like it would create a more load distributing pull provided it's in a straight line...or even if it's on an angle it would pull both side of the stuck in the same direction.
In theory possibly, but when the pulling vehicle moves as soon as it becomes a little angled and the tow points on the two vehicles are no longer parallel with each other one strap will hit first and jerk the tugging vehicle one way causing a counter reaction jerk on the other strap. I think it may be worth a shot but not sure how effective it will be
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 01:00 PM   #90
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one thing that i havent really seen mentioned is that the size of your strap should be decided based on what vehicle is doing the pulling, not what is stuck. if im pulling out a stuck cherokee with my stock cj-5, a 2inch strap will usually be fine. if im pulling out the same cherokee with my cummins (7800lbs) i will be using a 4" strap due to the extra momentum.

we dont all drive jeeps.
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 01:07 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badazzamc View Post
yea thats true, I just dont see a pin bending, but I guess anything can happen.
That's the point of this entire thread and recovery education ... most people "think" they know and just because it works doesn't alway mean it's the safest or correct way to do it.

Kind of morbid, but in most cases the victim doesn't "see" the pin bend or the clevis flying either.

I have been corrected with some of my recovery methods before and would like to say thank you to those responsible for that ... I keep that wooden cinch bone in the front next to me now. (You know who you are.)

And to those that are being instructed or shown a different way: Don't take offense ... that person showing you a better way of doing something may be saving you, your friend or a family members life.
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 01:27 PM   #92
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Would recommend the writeup on Pirate that is linked in Gmans thread. Great information on recovery in that.

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista...ery/index.html

(link for the lazy)
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 05:29 PM   #93
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Guys, a little reminder as I was almost about to do it myself today without thinking ( if it weren't for the long walk from my vehicle to the stuck). I grabbed a clevis without even thinking to hook a strap to a looped strap for a pull on a vehicle without tow points on the stuck or the tugger. Thanks Jim for saying something. Even though I had already realized my mistake we need to be aware and speak up nonetheless.
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 07:29 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak450r View Post
ok whats the opinion of this set up? 2 straps we'll say 4" 40,000 lb equal length. any pro's or con's it looks like it would create a more load distributing pull provided it's in a straight line...or even if it's on an angle it would pull both side of the stuck in the same direction.
in the military TM they show tanks using crossed cables when pulling using both tow points.

page 108 is one example
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.p...id=file&pid=11
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 08:34 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder View Post
For the record, I stopped UP_Roktoy from pulling a Jeep with a chain that was attached to his hitch ball yesterday.

:tonka:
You're a tool :tonka:

We were pulling a ROLLING jeep across a PAVED parking lot
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 09:33 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak450r View Post
ok whats the opinion of this set up? 2 straps we'll say 4" 40,000 lb equal length. any pro's or con's it looks like it would create a more load distributing pull provided it's in a straight line...or even if it's on an angle it would pull both side of the stuck in the same direction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fukkinrizzo View Post
in the military TM they show tanks using crossed cables when pulling using both tow points.

page 108 is one example
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.p...id=file&pid=11
Nice link fukkinrizzo. Looking at the manual, it seems likely that the crossed straps are to keep the towed vehicle following directly behind the vehicle doing the towing. By not crossing the straps the towed vehicle could go further off to the side, like on an off camber road or such.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 04:03 PM   #97
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My new shipment of straps and clevis reciever mounts are in!
2"x30' straps, this is the DTS 2 mentioned earlier in this post $31 plus $5 shipping anywhere in michigan.
Clevis mount has a new price of $26 with the screw clevis included.


Last edited by CreativeFab; February 27th, 2008 at 04:08 PM.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 04:13 PM   #98
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I like the straps with the wrapped ends. So tired of my big straps getting chewed/sawed from yanking.

I need some new tree savers actually.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 04:53 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UP_ROKTOY View Post
I have used that method and see no issues with it.

95 bowtie you should look for some tow hooks from a 73-87 chevy, they were pretty beefy and always worked pretty well.
Chevy Tow hooks are cast peices of crap and start to straiten out and then break like in that one video

Quote:
Originally Posted by fsumotorhead View Post
Ford Superduty "hooks" are as tough as they come, if you have a solid frame point to mount them, i'd use those in combination with a shackle to attach a strap.
I don't like tow hooks But fords stupid dutie hooks aren't hooks they are loops and make a full circe and are way stronger then a chevy hook and if your not useing a D-ring then are a good second choise, any Hook IMO sucks and is a probelm waiting to show its self!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothos View Post
I like the straps with the wrapped ends. So tired of my big straps getting chewed/sawed from yanking.

I need some new tree savers actually.
X2 I want a even bigger tree strap for when I an double or triple lineing my 12k warn

and Jim in video # 3 is a 2" strap that wasn't tuged on hard OR between to heavy rigs but it broke with no proble 3" is bottom line but I will go 6" that does streach when yanked just not as much, But as I stated before yes to big for a tow hook wich is why I won't pull on a tow hook...bottom line is have solid tow points front and rear with D-rings OR DON"T GO WHEELING

and by solid I meen over kill reice hitchs are good but I usally bolt them and weld them to the frame just to be on the safe side and not put some one life in a few bolts that should never break but when back up by some good stich welds is even better

here is my sons bogger I just made his pull point
it like a H so it doesn't rely on one part of the frame




Mine on my scrambler

On my scramlber I have 1/2"x4" wide steel plate Wraped around my 2x4.25 tube bumpers then (haven't done it yet) will add in anotehr 1" plate to the front so it will be 1 &1/2" think in front of the bumper so it holds the 1 1/2" pin d-rings I have on the Jeep

front also has 4x4x.25 square tube that the plate wraps around there is even a few 2x2 peices that aren't in the pic for the winch plate and the winch bolts to go threw


with the 1/4" winch plate on it



rear upside down



finished minus the 1" plete still to be added

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Old February 27th, 2008, 04:56 PM   #100
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Sweet deal!

Scramblerman, you need to post that in the tech section as a sticky - NICE SETUP!
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