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Old February 22nd, 2008, 10:01 AM   #61
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that also doesnt provide a straight pull on the hooks and side loads them, I dont like that idea.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 10:28 AM   #62
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Ive gotta question for u guys. I have a 95 chevy it is my dd/weekend wheeler and I was looking at some tow hooks for it but i dont know what type tow hook would be safe. I was looking at some j-hooks but i would really trust them sence they would be bolted on upside down. Is there any way that i could fab up a d-ring mount to bolt to the bottom of the frame.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 10:32 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadhouse View Post
for anyone with a receiver hitch the tow strap shackle mount in Ironmans link is really great. I know most of you know that, but just saying for people who haven't seen one.

I have the Warn version myself.

I don't even own a 2" strap, only a couple of 3" straps. I did have a 6" when I wheeled my F250, but its over kill for the Heep. So I gave it to my buddy who bought the truck.
I can see the receiver hitch shackle mount being convenient, but is there any other benefit over just pinning your strap inside your receiver hitch? See pic. You're replacing the pin to receiver interface, the receiver to shackle pin interface, the shackle pin to shackle interface, plus the shackle to strap, with just a strap to receiver pin interface. It is much more simple, and should be just as strong.

Honest question, is there any reason this is a bad idea? I can see if you're pulling on an angle, the strap could rub on the edge of the hitch and possibly cut it, but on straight pulls is this acceptable.

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Old February 22nd, 2008, 10:35 AM   #64
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^i've done that hundreds of times

also i solely use a 6" strap, overkill in most situations yes, but i hate breaking straps and they add up fast. more than likely i'll not need a new one for a very long time.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 10:36 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrill20 View Post
I can see the receiver hitch shackle mount being convenient, but is there any other benefit over just pinning your strap inside your receiver hitch? See pic. You're replacing the pin to receiver interface, the receiver to shackle pin interface, the shackle pin to shackle interface, plus the shackle to strap, with just a strap to receiver pin interface. It is much more simple, and should be just as strong.

Honest question, is there any reason this is a bad idea? I can see if you're pulling on an angle, the strap could rub on the edge of the hitch and possibly cut it, but on straight pulls is this acceptable.


I have used that method and see no issues with it.

95 bowtie you should look for some tow hooks from a 73-87 chevy, they were pretty beefy and always worked pretty well.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 10:39 AM   #66
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Ford Superduty "hooks" are as tough as they come, if you have a solid frame point to mount them, i'd use those in combination with a shackle to attach a strap.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 11:03 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrill20 View Post
I can see the receiver hitch shackle mount being convenient, but is there any other benefit over just pinning your strap inside your receiver hitch? See pic. You're replacing the pin to receiver interface, the receiver to shackle pin interface, the shackle pin to shackle interface, plus the shackle to strap, with just a strap to receiver pin interface. It is much more simple, and should be just as strong.

Honest question, is there any reason this is a bad idea? I can see if you're pulling on an angle, the strap could rub on the edge of the hitch and possibly cut it, but on straight pulls is this acceptable.


The only problem I see with that is the pin is made to be strong against sheering not bending.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 11:19 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrill20 View Post
I can see the receiver hitch shackle mount being convenient, but is there any other benefit over just pinning your strap inside your receiver hitch? See pic. You're replacing the pin to receiver interface, the receiver to shackle pin interface, the shackle pin to shackle interface, plus the shackle to strap, with just a strap to receiver pin interface. It is much more simple, and should be just as strong.

Honest question, is there any reason this is a bad idea? I can see if you're pulling on an angle, the strap could rub on the edge of the hitch and possibly cut it, but on straight pulls is this acceptable.


There is one downside to that. If you are in a situation where you are doing a sideways/lateral pull you can catch the strap on the side of your hitch which creates a very high stress point on the strap. Picture pulling a rubber band tight and hitting it wth a knife.

Straight pull.......... no problem.

Last edited by whiterhino; February 22nd, 2008 at 11:23 AM.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 11:47 AM   #69
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I posted this a few weeks ago in the rules and regulations portion of the forum....

note this information also covers the correct way to strap your rig down to your trailer when you are going to and from events, I have seen several rigs not properly strapped....

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=75194
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 11:52 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak450r View Post
i have at least one tip no one mentioned. when your either winching, or using a recovery strap. i always like to make a U that connects to both side of the front hooks/shackles so that the pull it straight foward and not on an angle, this also distributes the load evenly on 2 tow points instead of just one. and if you need more then one strap to do this then run the U strap through the sown loop of the longer strap as shown below.
I do this also. all my military stuff has the two shackles on the front like most of the jeeps have. I have two 9ft straps or take one of my others and run it through the loop like described above. I like the second method better because it eliminates a clevis
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 11:53 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrill20 View Post
I can see the receiver hitch shackle mount being convenient, but is there any other benefit over just pinning your strap inside your receiver hitch? See pic. You're replacing the pin to receiver interface, the receiver to shackle pin interface, the shackle pin to shackle interface, plus the shackle to strap, with just a strap to receiver pin interface. It is much more simple, and should be just as strong.

Honest question, is there any reason this is a bad idea? I can see if you're pulling on an angle, the strap could rub on the edge of the hitch and possibly cut it, but on straight pulls is this acceptable.

this does not work for big straps
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 01:25 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrill20 View Post
I can see the receiver hitch shackle mount being convenient, but is there any other benefit over just pinning your strap inside your receiver hitch? See pic. You're replacing the pin to receiver interface, the receiver to shackle pin interface, the shackle pin to shackle interface, plus the shackle to strap, with just a strap to receiver pin interface. It is much more simple, and should be just as strong.

Honest question, is there any reason this is a bad idea? I can see if you're pulling on an angle, the strap could rub on the edge of the hitch and possibly cut it, but on straight pulls is this acceptable.

I've done that too, but only for light pulls. You could bend the pin easily on a hard yank. I have an extra hitch insert with no trailer ball on it and I use my clevis hook thru the hole. Seems to work a little better then the strap into the receiver, especially if you have to pull at any angle.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 01:26 PM   #73
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Anybody have a link to the old Cracker vid "The big stuck". Seeing it happen like that was pretty sobering I think.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 03:24 PM   #74
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Here are a few

YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Who can forget these clowns without too much strap and not enough brains

YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Here is one with just a broken strap.
YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


YouTube Video
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YouTube Video
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I should give a reminder to the Gals to always strip down to your bikini so that you can get some camera time

YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Last edited by 97xj; February 22nd, 2008 at 04:45 PM.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 03:51 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsumotorhead View Post
Ford Superduty "hooks" are as tough as they come, if you have a solid frame point to mount them, i'd use those in combination with a shackle to attach a strap.
I don't know about that. My buddy hit a car with his 250 and the factory tow point was bent and completely worthless along with the front bumper.

Personally I get my clevis or any hook from a place that sells quality units like crosby. I go to anderson equipment on 8 and middlebelt. you pay a bit more but imo worth it. I would stay away from those blingy stainless steel clevis's in the catalogs as well.

one thing I have seen a alot that has caused equipment failure is the stuck vehicle's driver not assisting the pulling vehicle. if you are stuck put it in gear and hit the gas appropriately (as not to run over the strap) and help the pulling vehicle. I can't stand the guy just sitting there waiting. most cases dictate that once you get the initial unstuck your vehicle helping provide power will greatly reduce the strain on the pulling vehcile. same with winches. if you are pulling use your vehicle in gear and ease the load on the winch.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 08:13 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97xj View Post
Here are a few

YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

thats the one
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 09:31 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster4.0 View Post
The only problem I see with that is the pin is made to be strong against sheering not bending.
Yes but if you use a d ring mount in a reciver the same amount of force is being applied to the pin.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 09:34 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badazzamc View Post
Yes but if you use a d ring mount in a reciver the same amount of force is being applied to the pin.
Not quite true. With an insert in the hitch, the pin is fixed all the way across with 2 shear points but it's not allowed to bend. In the instance of using just a pin to hold a strap, the pin is allowed to bend/ deflect. This is much weaker.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 09:40 PM   #79
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yea thats true, I just dont see a pin bending, but I guess anything can happen.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 10:42 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovrlnd View Post
I don't know about that. My buddy hit a car with his 250 and the factory tow point was bent and completely worthless along with the front bumper.

Personally I get my clevis or any hook from a place that sells quality units like crosby. I go to anderson equipment on 8 and middlebelt. you pay a bit more but imo worth it. I would stay away from those blingy stainless steel clevis's in the catalogs as well.

one thing I have seen a alot that has caused equipment failure is the stuck vehicle's driver not assisting the pulling vehicle. if you are stuck put it in gear and hit the gas appropriately (as not to run over the strap) and help the pulling vehicle. I can't stand the guy just sitting there waiting. most cases dictate that once you get the initial unstuck your vehicle helping provide power will greatly reduce the strain on the pulling vehcile. same with winches. if you are pulling use your vehicle in gear and ease the load on the winch.

on top of that, i'm man enough to admit when i'm stuck and let off the gas before 100% of movement is lost. So i still have 6-10" to move around (in most cases) that way just before the strap is fully taught, i gun it and get the vehicle moving, it usually works great.
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