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Old February 21st, 2008, 11:38 PM   #41
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I will list the prices for these straps, but in all honesty unless your pulling out a Suburban with a Suburban you wont need a strap larger than a 3". You will loose the snatch aspect when using a strap with a higher capacity than the wieght of the vehicle would dictate.

DTS 3 $45
DTS 4 $56
DTS 6 $88
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Old February 21st, 2008, 11:39 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by FlatBlackYJ View Post
Got any hooks?

On the same PDF at the bottom

Most this stuff is a 2 day turnaround to your door

Last edited by CreativeFab; February 21st, 2008 at 11:44 PM.
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Old February 21st, 2008, 11:40 PM   #43
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For anything more than a light tug I always use at least a 3'' wide strap. I have seen too many 2'' ones break, even the good ones.
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Old February 21st, 2008, 11:43 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Icebreaker88 View Post
For anything more than a light tug I always use at least a 3'' wide strap. I have seen too many 2'' ones break, even the good ones.
For a true stuck I only use a 3" as well, and a 30' length is the best.

For just a simple tug with a tight strap I will grab my 2"x20'
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Old February 21st, 2008, 11:44 PM   #45
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for anyone with a receiver hitch the tow strap shackle mount in Ironmans link is really great. I know most of you know that, but just saying for people who haven't seen one.

I have the Warn version myself.

I don't even own a 2" strap, only a couple of 3" straps. I did have a 6" when I wheeled my F250, but its over kill for the Heep. So I gave it to my buddy who bought the truck.
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Old February 21st, 2008, 11:46 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Roadhouse View Post
for anyone with a receiver hitch the tow strap shackle mount in Ironmans link is really great. I know most of you know that, but just saying for people who haven't seen one.

I have the Warn version myself.
Good point Mike

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Old February 21st, 2008, 11:47 PM   #47
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When I started driving a tow truck I was taught to never use the factory tow hooks for winching because they break more often then you think. The first thing I plan on doin when I get my jeep back together is make some very stout tow points so I have no worries any more.
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Old February 21st, 2008, 11:47 PM   #48
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X2 on the receiver shackle mount
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 12:37 AM   #49
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One thing I make a point of when making a safe recovery of another vehicle is I do not like to have passengers with me when making a pull on another vehicle and even before I start I make sure everyone is a good distance away from the action. My reasoning for not wanting a passenger is that even practicing safe recovery techniques something can still go wrong and I do not want to even think about what the repercussions may be. I would rather know that all spectators are safe and that myself and the other driver are the only ones in "the line of fire."
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 12:52 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by 99CherokeeClassic View Post
One thing I make a point of when making a safe recovery of another vehicle is I do not like to have passengers with me when making a pull on another vehicle and even before I start I make sure everyone is a good distance away from the action. My reasoning for not wanting a passenger is that even practicing safe recovery techniques something can still go wrong and I do not want to even think about what the repercussions may be. I would rather know that all spectators are safe and that myself and the other driver are the only ones in "the line of fire."
thats a good way of thinking!!
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 02:47 AM   #51
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X2

and yes 2" straps are pointless as far as I'm concerned, I've snapped a 3" strap using my jeep to tug out a cherokee that wasn't stuck horribly bad. I can also think of numerous tugs that I would have been scared to use a 2" strap on.

3" strap ripped the tow hool out of my frame, think the 2" would have done that or just broke?
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 03:49 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebreaker88 View Post
For anything more than a light tug I always use at least a 3'' wide strap. I have seen too many 2'' ones break, even the good ones.
You couldn't get me to hook to a 3" strap on a stuck rig

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
For a true stuck I only use a 3" as well, and a 30' length is the best.



For just a simple tug with a tight strap I will grab my 2"x20'

No 6" is the BEST thats why its the bigest


Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadhouse View Post
for anyone with a receiver hitch the tow strap shackle mount in Ironmans link is really great. I know most of you know that, but just saying for people who haven't seen one.

I have the Warn version myself.

I don't even own a 2" strap, only a couple of 3" straps. I did have a 6" when I wheeled my F250, but its over kill for the Heep. So I gave it to my buddy who bought the truck.
a 4" is the lowest i would go but why not carry a 6" incase a f250 is whats hooked to you and yanks you hard and you don't move....happens all the time



IMO a 100 dollar TSC 6" strap is the only way to go (they have reenforced loops ) For safty I would have "over kill" and have to lug it around the have my wife get a call that I am hurt or worse died, that why I also don't let stranges hook up to with out proper inspection and a carful eye.. I have burried friend over misshaps and seen many hurt and I don't plan on doing that again.. IF i see anyone being dumb on hook up I will stop you and you will comply or get punched friend or not, ask my friends Just like up at the pig gig when Imortal was being winched out by Justin... everyone was just standing around as was going to watch I told them all they had to get behind trees out of the danger zone and everone scatered when I pointed out what they were doing as they wern't even thinking of what could happen untill it was pointed out...
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 04:10 AM   #53
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I've always heard about but never actualy seen anyone do is puting waight at about the middle of the stap so if it dose come loose it won't go as far or as hard
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 04:15 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by fatboy21 View Post
I've always heard about but never actualy seen anyone do is puting waight at about the middle of the stap so if it dose come loose it won't go as far or as hard
Not a strap and winch line... int eh middle of a strap would just fly up when it was pulled..... on a winch line with it break under load the weight makes it fall to the ground faster
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 06:31 AM   #55
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For a jeep I prefer a 2" strap. A strap is meant to stretch using it's kenetic energy to pull the stuck vehicle. Not be a solid rigid member like a chain. I hate seeing people use an oversized strap that won't stretch at all and ends up pulling just like a chain. That's one of the reasons that tow hooks get ripped off of vehicles. It's that solid jerk because the oversize strap doesn't do it's job. The comment above about a hook pulling part of the frame away tells me that it was being jerked super hard and more than once.

The real point is that if you have to hit it hard enough to break a 2" strap getting a jeep or smaller vehicle, you should stop before that and use a winch.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 08:34 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71jeepster View Post
damn, the strap went all the way thru out the back!!


No... It when in the back window, then the back of the head rest and out the windshield then the jeep rolled forward onto the end of the strap.

The point is that even after going through the seat and possibly a soft window it still had enough energy to get through the windshield with 6-10 feet of strap
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 08:39 AM   #57
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Good discussion guys.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 09:33 AM   #58
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i have at least one tip no one mentioned. when your either winching, or using a recovery strap. i always like to make a U that connects to both side of the front hooks/shackles so that the pull it straight foward and not on an angle, this also distributes the load evenly on 2 tow points instead of just one. and if you need more then one strap to do this then run the U strap through the sown loop of the longer strap as shown below.
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 09:41 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97xj View Post


No... It when in the back window, then the back of the head rest and out the windshield then the jeep rolled forward onto the end of the strap.

The point is that even after going through the seat and possibly a soft window it still had enough energy to get through the windshield with 6-10 feet of strap
that was stated above a few posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak450r View Post
i have at least one tip no one mentioned. when your either winching, or using a recovery strap. i always like to make a U that connects to both side of the front hooks/shackles so that the pull it straight foward and not on an angle, this also distributes the load evenly on 2 tow points instead of just one. and if you need more then one strap to do this then run the U strap through the sown loop of the longer strap as shown below.
I don't like that idea, because you are pulling out and because of the way that you hook your straps up they are gonna be forced to pull towards each other also! Not a good idea IMO!
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Old February 22nd, 2008, 09:57 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak450r View Post
i have at least one tip no one mentioned. when your either winching, or using a recovery strap. i always like to make a U that connects to both side of the front hooks/shackles so that the pull it straight foward and not on an angle, this also distributes the load evenly on 2 tow points instead of just one. and if you need more then one strap to do this then run the U strap through the sown loop of the longer strap as shown below.
The downside to that is that it reduces the rating of the strap. I don't know the specifics but it is taught in rigging to allow for this reduced load.

The up side is that it does indeed pull straight and shortens the strap in difficult situations. I have done it both ways.
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