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Old March 22nd, 2006, 10:49 PM   #1
Monkeyevil
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Default D300 info...

I've had some people ask about this, so I figured I would make a post here.

Some Jeep d300 info:
  • Introduced to the Jeep CJ line in 1980, they were only offered stock in the CJ's.
  • The 1980 Dana 300 has a short output shaft and a d20 style speedo gear setup.
  • 1981 - 1986 are the same style (longer output shaft) and have a newer New Process style speedo setup... newer electric speedo gear housings are a direct bolt in. (IE from your current NP231)
  • The Jeep bolt pattern d300 is the same bolt pattern as an NP231
  • The Scout d300 (only offered in 1980) is commonly called the "Texas" bolt pattern... it is a direct swap for a Jeep with a Dana 20. No adapters needed.... it is RARE.
  • Low range is 2.6 : 1
  • It has seperate shift rails (and gears) for the front and rear outputs. These rails are tied together at the shifter linkage.... This means you can easily have two seperate shifters that shift both rails independantly.

Expect to pay from $50 - $200 for a decent Jeep D300. The 1980 style are sometimes cheaper because they are "less" desirable. Unlike a lot of rumors, JB conversions does make a 32 spline output for the shorty d300. So besides the crappy speedo gear I like the added driveshaft length.

Expect to pay from $300 - $600 for a Scout d300... unless you find a great deal, or you come across one and seller is clueless.

NP231 swap.
While the D300 has the same bolt pattern as the NP231... the output shaft on an ax-15 is about 7/8" to long... it bottoms out in the input shaft of the d300. Also the seal on the front bearing retainer of the d300 bottoms out on the seal surface on the AX-15 by about 3/8".

Solutions:
  • Purchase a clocking ring (3/8") and spacer (1/2") bolt in. $100-$175
  • Cut 7/8" off the AX-15 splines, mill off seal surface on d300*, bolt in (with stock crappy d300 clocking) $25
  • Purchase a clocking ring (3/8"), mill off seal surface on d300*, cut AX-15 shaft down (1/8") bolt in... $100

As you can see in the picture the seal seating surface on the front output of the d300 protrudes furthest from the case. You can use a mill or a grinder to flatten that surface to almost the level of the bolt surface... thus gaining that clearance.

Since you no longer have a seal (or a place to put one), you will need to replace the standard input bearing with a sealed needle bearing.
Quote:
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Part# 5972K51
Steel Ball Bearing --
ABEC-1 Double Sealed Bearing No. 6209 for 45mm Shaft Dia
Max RPM 5,300
$22.39 Each

or

Part# 6661K111
Precision-Plus Steel Ball Bearing
ABEC-1 Double Sealed Bearing #6209 for 45 mm Shaft Dia
Max RPM 5,000
In stock at $40.77 Each
Shifting
With no mods a twin sticked d300 with shift into any combination BUT front high, front high/rear low, or front low/rear high.

Front high is usefull for limping off the trail, or front wheel drive burn outs.

Here is how to do it without pulling the interlock pills and risking the bad combinations.

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/#FWDHi
I used a mill to make the detent longer, but some skill with a grinder and your could accomplish the same thing.

What I did
  • I have a 1980 CJ D300.
  • It's has Tera 4 to 1 gears. They are about $200 cheaper than LowMax gears, but lowmax gears a billiet one peice, and Tera gears a pressed two peice.
  • I made my twinsticks because I wanted them to be bling bling; but you can purchase a kit off eBay for $70 or so.
  • I'm running an eBay clocking ring, with a milled deal surface. I liked the idea of another 1/2" of rear driveshaft length.
  • My speedometer is off by about 20mph.... it's super had to calibrate a d20 style gear anymore becuase you need to use apater gears that are hard to find. I really don't care

Issues, problems, concerns...
I'm still running stock front and rear ouput shafts... I don't drive like a moron so I don't expect them to brake. If I do break them I will go with the upgraded shafts.

The Tera gears are nice, I'm glad to have the savings in my pocket

All d300's must be painted a cool color... mine is blue. With a cool sight tube




If you need bling bling shift knobs that are engraved with the front and rear patterns... call Trevor at WFO concepts. They are super nice.

Also the twinstick boot kit (with trim ring) on eBay is worth the extra $$.




Even with a 1" body lift you won't be able to clock the case totally flat without some tub modifications.

Do yourself a favor and swap the stock strap yokes out for some d44 u-bolt ones.

If you tear the case apart... buy a rebuild kit. I know it's $140, but mine sounds like a machine gun with no driveline load at about 40mph... it's kinda annoying.

See the way I mounted that crossmember above? Don't do that... unless you like your AX-15 to crack the case... use a stock mounting setup.
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Old March 22nd, 2006, 11:21 PM   #2
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nice write up monkey
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Old March 23rd, 2006, 12:23 AM   #3
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Cool info. I have one more question though. I know the D300 Bolt Pattern is the same as the NP231 but what is that bolt pattern? out of curiosity. What I'm looking for is this:

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Old March 23rd, 2006, 11:34 AM   #4
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It's an asymmetric bolt pattern, and I don't have the numbers for it... nor have I ever seen a CAD drawing on Pirate.

If your looking to make a clocking ring... your just going to have to to measure one.
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Old March 23rd, 2006, 09:21 PM   #5
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Just curious, what are you doing for a rear d/shaft. I may sound stupid in this post but I dont know a ton about driveshaft building. I just put a d300 in mine and stopped by the dshaft shop to have one built and the builder wanted to know if it was a cv yoke or not. I would assume no. At that point he said that realistically I should just go with a regular shaft becuase it would work just fine. That said I have never seen a solid shaft on a lifted jeep that was not a slip yoke. So should i buy a different yoke and just have him build cv or go with what he suggests.

Sorry for the hijack but you know your stuff :)
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Old March 23rd, 2006, 10:42 PM   #6
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After I did my 300 swap I ran a non cv DS for a week or so until I got the CV in.....As an after thought I could have stayed with the non-CV....I have it as a spare now....

Biff

PS Good info above!!!
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Old March 24th, 2006, 12:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteYJ
Just curious, what are you doing for a rear d/shaft. I may sound stupid in this post but I dont know a ton about driveshaft building. I just put a d300 in mine and stopped by the dshaft shop to have one built and the builder wanted to know if it was a cv yoke or not. I would assume no. At that point he said that realistically I should just go with a regular shaft becuase it would work just fine. That said I have never seen a solid shaft on a lifted jeep that was not a slip yoke. So should i buy a different yoke and just have him build cv or go with what he suggests.

Sorry for the hijack but you know your stuff :)

For setting up a driveshaft give this a read: "Driveshaft 401"

It's from Pirate 4x4, I'd post some driveshaft info but it would all be from that writeup (seeing as thats where I learned it). It's a rather long read, 20-30 minutes to thuroughly read through it all. But it's very complete, well written and easily understandable. Afterwards you should just about know exactly what you want/need.

Good Luck!
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Old March 24th, 2006, 06:53 AM   #8
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Thanks for the link! Very good article. At this point I am going to go with a CV style, I am not 100% sure I have to have it but it looks like it wont hurt to go with it and it should give me the best odds for a nice vibration free shaft which is what I am after.

Biff did you have to swap yokes when you went to the cv style shaft? I am told I will have to I just want to make sure before I go yanking the yoke off my t-case and run it 45 minutes to the axle shop.

That or if anyone knows a part number for the necessary yoke that would be cool!
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Old March 24th, 2006, 08:09 AM   #9
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Nice write up Daryll

quote from monkey boy lol... "Do yourself a favor and swap the stock strap yokes out for some d400 u-bolt ones." You still have the strap style yoke on in your picture :miff:

Looks good I like the site tube addition
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Old March 24th, 2006, 06:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ledd
Cool info. I have one more question though. I know the D300 Bolt Pattern is the same as the NP231 but what is that bolt pattern? out of curiosity. What I'm looking for is this:


Do you still need these measurements?

I have a dana 300 and a np231 sitting in my garage.
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Old March 24th, 2006, 06:45 PM   #11
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Actually yeah, you don't need to hurry though. I'm adding up parts for a project and I'm trying to figure out what fits what. Thanks CC!

Oh, could you measure the DIA of the outer edge too?
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Old March 25th, 2006, 09:52 AM   #12
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A couple questons about your sight tube. Are you using existing holes or drill your own? Where do you run your fluid level at. I have a AA clocking ring with the new input shaft. My t-case is pretty much flat. I'm concerned about how much fluid to put in. The fill hole is at the top of the t-case.

Side note, when putting in my 300 behind a NV3550 I had to grind down the output shaft on the trans a little. It needs to be flush with the end of the housing.

Good write up, thanks.
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Old March 25th, 2006, 10:10 AM   #13
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Sorry about the delay....

Yes I had to swap the yokes. I bought new ones but not sure I would do so again. I have seen a few on Ebay for a good price.....

:)

Biff

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteYJ
Thanks for the link! Very good article. At this point I am going to go with a CV style, I am not 100% sure I have to have it but it looks like it wont hurt to go with it and it should give me the best odds for a nice vibration free shaft which is what I am after.

Biff did you have to swap yokes when you went to the cv style shaft? I am told I will have to I just want to make sure before I go yanking the yoke off my t-case and run it 45 minutes to the axle shop.

That or if anyone knows a part number for the necessary yoke that would be cool!
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Old March 25th, 2006, 10:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyevil
Do yourself a favor and swap the stock strap yokes out for some d400 u-bolt ones.

Some what?
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Old March 25th, 2006, 11:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteYJ
Thanks for the link! Very good article. At this point I am going to go with a CV style, I am not 100% sure I have to have it but it looks like it wont hurt to go with it and it should give me the best odds for a nice vibration free shaft which is what I am after.

Biff did you have to swap yokes when you went to the cv style shaft? I am told I will have to I just want to make sure before I go yanking the yoke off my t-case and run it 45 minutes to the axle shop.

That or if anyone knows a part number for the necessary yoke that would be cool!
You can use an NP231 front CV yoke from a TJ, XJ, or ZJ.
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Old March 25th, 2006, 11:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder
Some what?
Rare dana 400.
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Old March 28th, 2006, 11:02 PM   #17
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A few off the wall questions for you

I have been introduced to the idea of putting a 300 in my TJ, I see where your twin stick come out but would it be in the same area?

I am having a tough time trying to justify all the costs that go into that setup, is a flip kit really worth 600 dollars? What other costs go into it, for it to be complete?

Ugh, I hate these damn Jeeps
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