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Old November 6th, 2005, 10:50 PM   #1
Monkeyevil
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Default Trailer thoughts...

At JCR we hope to start building QUALITY trailers for specialty hauling (4x4's, hot rods, etc...)

After looking for (and building) trailers for ourselves we feel like there is a lot to be desired... even a $2000 new trailer lacks in a lot of areas.

Brian is doing a buildup right now (his second for himself), and if your interested I can keep you updated.

I personally dislike:
Brakes on 1 axle only
Angle iron construction
No Brake-Away
Decks not screwed down
crappy fenders
crappy wiring
crappy paint...

All of which you can find on a $2000+ trailer

Any other problems you have?
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Old November 6th, 2005, 10:54 PM   #2
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Daryl..in the state of Michigan brakes on only one axle are illegal. Not that the DOT would pull someone over for pulling thier Rig. But they could site you for only brakes on one axle.
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Old November 6th, 2005, 10:56 PM   #3
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I will be looking for a trailer in the spring/summer....

18' long and wide enough to hold full width axles with 18.5 inch tires....
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Old November 7th, 2005, 08:58 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadhouse
Daryl..in the state of Michigan brakes on only one axle are illegal. Not that the DOT would pull someone over for pulling thier Rig. But they could site you for only brakes on one axle.
Yep... yet you can buy a trailer with brakes on one axle everywhere. Not illegal to sell... illegal to pull at it's GVWR.
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Old November 7th, 2005, 09:36 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyevil
Any other problems you have?
Some things I've seen on $2k trailers which IMO are bad:
-VERY used car tires
-no wheel or support plate attachment on the jack
-crappy jack handles
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Old November 7th, 2005, 10:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyevil

Any other problems you have?
Not a problem I have, but a problem I see all the time:

Trailers set up for a 2" ball!

2" balls are rated for 6000 pounds AT BEST. For a trailer rated for 7000 pounds or higher??? Need a 2 5/16" setup.

Last edited by Kane; November 7th, 2005 at 10:53 AM.
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Old November 7th, 2005, 11:21 AM   #7
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tie downs that are either on the deck or high enough on the side of the trailer so that the straps don't rub or fray on the side of the trailer.

integrated 2" reciever on the front of the decking so you can put a multi-mount winch setup on it.

storage on tongue
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Old November 7th, 2005, 11:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kane
2" balls are rated for 6000 pounds AT BEST. For a trailer rated for 7000 pounds or higher???
I understand your point, but your claim of 6k# max on 2" ball is not exactly true. Draw Tite lists a 2" ball with 1.25" shank with an 8k rating. If you step up to their interchangable ball setup (1 7/16, 2", 2 5/16") then the rating is 10k#. Other manfacturers list a standard 2" ball with up to 10k ratings. Shank diameter is the main strength determining factor, not ball diameter.
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Old November 7th, 2005, 01:43 PM   #9
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I agree with the storage setup on the tongue. Last trailer I had, I put a storage box on the tongue and it worked out well.

Don't like inner fender panels that the tack welds break off either.

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Old November 7th, 2005, 02:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones
tie downs that are either on the deck or high enough on the side of the trailer so that the straps don't rub or fray on the side of the trailer.
Nothing ruins a strap faster than tieing down to the stake pockets

We use the weld on d-ring's on all 4 corners on our trailers...
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Old November 7th, 2005, 03:11 PM   #11
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Don't be skimpy with the wiring. Most trailers have the wiring stretched so tight you can play a song on them. Give a little slack and be sure to run the wires through grommets or around areas that will eventually wear through the insulation and ground out the wiring. Cheap trailer wiring just makes me mad. They save like $1 worth of wiring on a trailer when they skimp on it.
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Old November 7th, 2005, 03:21 PM   #12
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Yeah, good tie down points, good wiring, good weld quality, those things are always lacking.

Oh, a nice option is to have some flip-down posts/jacks to support the rear end when you are driving on/off the trailer, so you aren't trying to pop the trailer off the ball..
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Old November 7th, 2005, 05:08 PM   #13
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I have used that pre-wrapped 7 wire trailer RV wire. It is not real cheap, but it is really nice. Also, the trailers that we would be building are going to be built with 4x2 boxed tube and not angle iron. So the wires will all be ran inside the trailer frame. We also solder all of our connections and shrink tube.

I will put some pics of the trailer I am building a little later tonight.

keep the good ideas coming!
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Old November 7th, 2005, 06:42 PM   #14
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i like the ones with eaither removable fenders or fenders strong enough to drive over
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Old November 7th, 2005, 06:53 PM   #15
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I will post some pics of my last trailer(sold it to a friend)...I built the fenders to be strong enough to drive on. Used an angle iron frame and some diamond plate to sheet it. They turned out pretty good.
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Old November 7th, 2005, 07:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar
good weld quality,
I'm sure that wouldn't be a problem with Brian....I've seen his welding top notch.
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Old November 7th, 2005, 07:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadhouse
I'm sure that wouldn't be a problem with Brian....I've seen his welding top notch.
haha...thanks for the kind words!
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Old November 8th, 2005, 04:15 AM   #18
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Maybe i'll be contacting you when i purchase my next trailer then... what are you guys looking at as far as price for a 20' ??
Also are you doin dovetail trailers ?? or just flat ?
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Old November 8th, 2005, 06:51 AM   #19
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Let me know if you need to borrow my trailer for a template for building bigger trailers. ;) I still need to get a winch plate fabbed for that thing.
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Old November 8th, 2005, 08:49 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddinguy
Maybe i'll be contacting you when i purchase my next trailer then... what are you guys looking at as far as price for a 20' ??
Also are you doin dovetail trailers ?? or just flat ?
We are planning to build them kind of one off customs for ppl. To fit budgets and needs. I will have a better idea of my baseline price at the begining of next week. If we do put a dovetail on the, they are very little angle. To me the purpose of a dove is to have some trailer length to help get longer vehicles loaded on the trailer without hanging off the back.

Anyways, just send me a PM some time with what you want and I can work together a qoute.
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