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Old December 10th, 2007, 04:09 PM   #1
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Default Welded threaded inserts vs threading the tube

Welded threaded insert or threading the tube. What one would be better to do? Going to be for the steering on my XJ. I'm leaning more towards the inserts because I won't need to buy the taps then. Something along these lines Not a bad price either, just the tubing isn't long enogh for what I need.
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Old December 10th, 2007, 04:43 PM   #2
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I did weld inserts for simplicity.

if you're going to try to hand tap 7/8 threads invite me over so I can watch (I assume you don't have a lathe)
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Old December 10th, 2007, 04:49 PM   #3
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I would do solid 7076 alum. and tap it
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Old December 10th, 2007, 05:03 PM   #4
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I did weld inserts for simplicity.

if you're going to try to hand tap 7/8 threads invite me over so I can watch (I assume you don't have a lathe)
Well I do, Also have a 300 amp TIG welder, so either way is no problem. :sonicjay
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Old December 10th, 2007, 08:49 PM   #5
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then buy the taps... that way you're ahead of the game for when you build a front and rear 4 link.

If you can afford buying AL, do it. I couldn't, so I went with DOM...
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Old December 10th, 2007, 08:52 PM   #6
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whatever you do, make sure you jam-nut it and make sure they are tight.

I used inserts on my current tie rod because it was easier. The last one I threaded, it was not bad, but we borrowed a 2-foot t-handle.
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Old December 11th, 2007, 12:01 AM   #7
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I did weld in bungs for ease of assembly. Plus if a bung's threads ever get's messed up, I can grind it off and put a new one on saving my tube.
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Old December 11th, 2007, 12:59 AM   #8
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I did weld inserts for simplicity.

if you're going to try to hand tap 7/8 threads invite me over so I can watch (I assume you don't have a lathe)
i have on several occasions.. its not that bad.. its not that good.. but its definately not that bad either .. prolly do full tierod/draglink in about 15-20min :D ..
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Old December 11th, 2007, 09:09 PM   #9
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Well I'm doing the bung's $140 ish for two taps in not worth it to me. It's for the cross over steering on my WJ knuckles.
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Old December 12th, 2007, 09:22 PM   #10
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I did weld in bungs for ease of assembly. Plus if a bung's threads ever get's messed up, I can grind it off and put a new one on saving my tube.
yup, same here for my traction bars we made.. found them for pretty cheap on ebay.
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Old December 12th, 2007, 11:17 PM   #11
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I like direct tapping because you get tons more thread engagement. We used to do it by hand back in the day, it wasn't fun... but it wasn't impossible. I made a jig for the mill to do it now. Makes a much straighter tap, and that means a better jam nut engagement.

If you measure your lengths (center of hole to center of hole) I can send out rods tapped and match that CompleteOffRoad.com price with TRE's and jam nuts.

We have some other TRE parts numbers for the tie rod that we use in cross over setups get rid of the long ES2233L and they look a ton nicer + are stronger. If one is going to bend, it's going to be that ES2233L.

Let me know, I would actually like to get the numbers down so we can offer a WJ conversion steering setup on the site
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Old December 12th, 2007, 11:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
then buy the taps... that way you're ahead of the game for when you build a front and rear 4 link.
Heims with 7/8 thread are 14tpi.
GM TRE's, some spark plugs, and this, are pretty much the only place you find 7/8 - 18.
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Old December 13th, 2007, 03:56 PM   #13
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I like direct tapping because you get tons more thread engagement. We used to do it by hand back in the day, it wasn't fun... but it wasn't impossible. I made a jig for the mill to do it now. Makes a much straighter tap, and that means a better jam nut engagement.

If you measure your lengths (center of hole to center of hole) I can send out rods tapped and match that CompleteOffRoad.com price with TRE's and jam nuts.

We have some other TRE parts numbers for the tie rod that we use in cross over setups get rid of the long ES2233L and they look a ton nicer + are stronger. If one is going to bend, it's going to be that ES2233L.

Let me know, I would actually like to get the numbers down so we can offer a WJ conversion steering setup on the site
Will do going to be a little bit before I get it done. Kind of off topic but do you think I'll have any problems with doing the tie rod OTK?
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Old December 13th, 2007, 04:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyevil View Post
Heims with 7/8 thread are 14tpi.
GM TRE's, some spark plugs, and this, are pretty much the only place you find 7/8 - 18.
shit, I keep forgetting people use TREs lol
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Old December 13th, 2007, 10:34 PM   #15
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Will do going to be a little bit before I get it done. Kind of off topic but do you think I'll have any problems with doing the tie rod OTK?
You know back when i did mine on the YJ there was a reason i didn't go OTK for the tie rod. It was either because it would hit my springs, or because I couldn't get the reamer in from the top with the upper arm in the way.

I haven't had my hands on a WJ knuckle in a while though, so I can't be sure.

If it works ok, you will need to trim your coil buckets back to the coils, cut off your steering stabilizer mount, and relocate your sway bar mounts. I could throw a couple slight bends in the end of the tie rod for clearance, but I have never ran that before, so I don't know about it's strength.
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Old December 14th, 2007, 07:05 PM   #16
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You know back when i did mine on the YJ there was a reason i didn't go OTK for the tie rod. It was either because it would hit my springs, or because I couldn't get the reamer in from the top with the upper arm in the way.

I haven't had my hands on a WJ knuckle in a while though, so I can't be sure.

If it works ok, you will need to trim your coil buckets back to the coils, cut off your steering stabilizer mount, and relocate your sway bar mounts. I could throw a couple slight bends in the end of the tie rod for clearance, but I have never ran that before, so I don't know about it's strength.
All ready planned on moving the sway bar links, relocating the track bar to the top of the axle with a JKS mount, and cutting the buckets back.
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Old December 14th, 2007, 07:14 PM   #17
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If your steering looked like this I would "tap" her in the "bung".
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Old December 29th, 2007, 11:08 PM   #18
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i had my neighbore make me slugs for my DOM steering. Than i heated up the DOM and put the slugs in the freezer, bashed them in there, had holes 3 holes drilled in the DOM , filled those with weld. So i have a pressed tight fight that is spot welded
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Old December 30th, 2007, 09:37 AM   #19
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As for better thread engagement with tapping, I disagree. If the bungs are threaded properly with the proper % of thread engagement, they should be equal to threading the tube. Also, the rule of thumb for minimum thread depth for max. bolt pull out strength is 1.5x the diameter of the fastener. So, a 3/4" tie rod end would need 1 1/8" of thread engagement and I think most threaded bungs are at least 2" long.

I'm talking push/pull, no side loads....in steel. I use 2x dia. for alum at work, but thats just my guess for alum.

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Old December 30th, 2007, 09:42 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato2k5 View Post
i had my neighbore make me slugs for my DOM steering. Than i heated up the DOM and put the slugs in the freezer, bashed them in there, had holes 3 holes drilled in the DOM , filled those with weld. So i have a pressed tight fight that is spot welded
I'm no engineer, but press fit steering linkages sounds pretty scary.
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