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Old December 6th, 2007, 09:11 PM   #1
sodapop
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Default Warn 9.5ti Tear down - Photo tear down

Here's a picture look at the tear down of a 9.5ti from assembled down to brake removal.

I rebuilded this winch because it would not freespool at all, I had to power out the winch line when I wanted to use it.

Schematics available on Warn's website





Pull all the socket head screws out.


The removal of the end housing part will be somewhat stubborn due to a gasket. The set screw to remove the clutch lever is in the pic above at the 3:00 position. It's the silver dot. you have to remove that to get out the clutch lever. Once the clutch lever is out, you can slide the sliding ring gear out.


Here is a pic of the sliding ring gear. Notice which way it comes out as it is necessary to proper operation. It WILL go back in either way but only one way works correctly. The ring gear splines are beveled to allow it to slide into the end housing when you turn the clutch lever.


Here is a pic of the end housing with the sliding ring gear removed. Lots of nasty buildup and corrosion...


Once you have the end housing and sliding ring gear cleaned you can move on to the next part. This is the Stage 2 carrier assembly. I'm going to call it the small planetary gear. Remove the snap ring and the small planetarygear will slide off the drive shaft. the gear in the center, the sun gear will come with it.


You'll notice the void in the center of the stage 3 carrier assembly (I'll call it the large Planetary gear). This void is where the sun gear that is attached to small planetary coupled with large planetary. These planetary gears are what allow the winch to have the reduction it needs to be strong enough to pull out a stuck jeep. The gray ring around the large planetary is the nylon thrust washer. The thrust washer is just slightly pressed into the the spline area you see. A pick (dental pic etc.) will easily remove it. Once the thrust washer is removed, the large planetary gear will slide out.


here's a pic of my nasty large planetary gear. I degreased the crap out of this thing...


Here's the area where the large planetary gear was. The large spline outer ring you see, is also removable. You do not need to remove it but you can. it will most likely be held in place by it's gasket. The small gear you see on the drive shaft is the drive spline. Though you can't see it in the pic, there is a retaining ring around the drive spline that keeps it from sliding into the drum. the drive spline can slide right off the shaft.


Drive spline removed. Now you can see the interior of the drum.


At this point, you can't tear down any further due to the wiring. The next 4 pics are of the wiring for my reference when I resembled it. There's quite a bit of wiring going on in there and even though it really will only go back together one way dues to lengths, I wanted to be certain. i also marked my wires and their corresponding terminals. i didn't have to remove all the wiring, just some of the large gauge ones.






On the right side of this pic, you can see how the Drum support comes apart.


Here's a pic of the drum support from the clutch side of the winch. This is actually a reassembly pic, after I've cleaned and regressed it. Anyway, the black ring around the outised of the greased area is the drum seal and the dark gray ring around the inside of the drum support is the drum bushing. You can replace the drum bushings and the drum seals (both sides)by purchasing the Seal kit part #64642


This is a pic of the drum, with the drum support removed. At this point, you can pull the entire drum off the motor side drum support.


Here's a pic of the motor side of the drum. you can see the shaft and brake assembly inside. Notice the amount of corrosion in there. My shaft and brake assembly was basically corroded to the inside of the drum. This was causing my freespool to not work at all, it was comletely seized up.


After some pounding, the shaft and brake assembly came out of the drum. This is the cleaned up pic of me reassembling it. When it came apart it was nasty and corroded. The brake pads didn't look like individual pieces, but were instead one large ring. After I got it apart, it was apparent they were multiple pieces. Below my thumb, you can see a snap ring,a tension washer, and the rest of the brake assembly. You don't actually have to take this all apart. I chose to because mine was in such sorry shape.


Here's a pic of my brake assembly in pieces. make sure you take note of how this all goes together when it comes apart. Mine fell apart before I could get pics of it. A quick call to Warn's technical service saved the day.


Once last pic of the brake assembly. this is where I stopped my tear down since I found the problem.


I cleaned it all up and reassembled it. The freespool worked but still not as smoothly as i wanted. Break worked too. I ended up tearing it all apart again about a week later and went a little deeper, not much just to the next planetary gear by the motor. I also used alot less grease when reassembling it which helped out a ton. Unfortunately, i screwed up the brake somehow and it no longer works. Most likely the is my error, but I plan on ordering new seals and bushing along with new brake pads for the next rebuild.

For the next rebuild, I'm going to tear a little further down and make sure the motor isn't too gunked up. I don't want it to overheat from dirt, mud, or sludge.

Words of wisdom:
1. Use good grease when reassembling the winch. Warn recommends Molylube1 or Aeroshell 17 (Aeroshell 33MS is the replacement for 17) I used Amsoil Synthetic since I couldn't find Aeroshell locally. You can order Aeroshell online from lots of places. The price range is anywhere from $7 - $20 for a tube so look around.

2. DO NOT OVERGREASE - this won't help your cause. it will actually make it freespool slowly. there's quite a bit of a vacuum caused by those planetaries when there's too much grease.

3. Take lots of photos or refer to these so you can remember how it all goes back together. Pay special attention to the Sliding ring gear and the brake assembly.

4. Stock up on degreaser or find a parts washer to use. I found it helpful to have a box of rubber gloves too and LOTS of rags.

That's all for now, when I do the next tear down, I'll try to get a few pics of parts I missed as well as the further tear down to the motor.

Last edited by sodapop; December 6th, 2007 at 11:42 PM.
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Old December 7th, 2007, 07:17 AM   #2
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Good pics Matt. I will be tearing mine down soon since the brake just quit. I am quite dissapointed with the 9.5ti since they promote how well sealed it is. I was going to add a a dash mounted control and started to take the plug out to tie into it. Right behind it I could see it was wet inside the housing.

Not worth the extra money for a water proofed unit.
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Old December 7th, 2007, 07:33 AM   #3
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I should point out another thing people miss. When you are powering out the line on the winch you're working against your brake. It's always recommended to free spool out your line rather than power it out to prolong the life of the brake pads on the winch.

I actually have to tear my winch apart saturday myself. I would have done it last week, but had plans.
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Old December 7th, 2007, 09:25 AM   #4
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I want to pull my EP9.0 apart and see if something can be done to free up the free spooling. Seems like none of the SW winches free spool very well.
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Old December 8th, 2007, 07:31 AM   #5
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Nice job on the write up.............. Maybe I'll do mine too........
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Old December 14th, 2007, 08:29 PM   #6
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i've torn into mine and got everything cleaned. Only sticking point for me is getting the drum itself to seat right in the gearbox end. I'm hanging up on something and it just got too cold to work on more.
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Old August 17th, 2014, 03:44 PM   #7
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I'm rebuilding my brake now. Does anyone know how to index the brake when putting it back together? This looks to be done when putting the cam gears in. but how many teeth back do you slide on the cam gear? or how do you get the correct lineup of the cam gears?

This is a warn 9.5ti to be clear.....
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