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Old November 28th, 2007, 12:25 AM   #21
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Looks good, i may have to do something like that
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Old November 28th, 2007, 06:25 PM   #22
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yay my XJ axle got turned cool.

Shoulda left the cover green
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Old November 28th, 2007, 06:45 PM   #23
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yay my XJ axle got turned cool.

Shoulda left the cover green
Sorry got to be Red
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Old December 2nd, 2007, 11:15 AM   #24
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I'm about to undertake this project I hope it works out well
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Actually, the new rule of thumb is you should make your tires bulge slightly more then skooterbuilt when he's wearing his tight ladies pants
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Old December 2nd, 2007, 11:58 AM   #25
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Measure a lot cut little. Good luck
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Old February 5th, 2008, 01:55 PM   #26
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Should/Could this be added to the FAQ section?
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Old April 2nd, 2008, 07:58 PM   #27
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TTT for someone to find
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Old January 14th, 2009, 01:17 PM   #28
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Posted a link to this thread twice today, maybe worth a FAQ?
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Old January 14th, 2009, 05:08 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by 99grandtj View Post
Posted a link to this thread twice today, maybe worth a FAQ?

Or an Infraction for digging up old threads!
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 09:30 PM   #30
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Hey there
I am new to this forum, actually ended up here following this link and could not find the original thread I linked this from NAXJA (or got tired of looking) so I signed up here because of this article. It looks very good but can you give me some more details?
1. Are you still running this and if so on what gears and tires?
2. Have you/how many times have you broke this? If so have you tried chromoly axles and do they still break?
3. Does any D44 outer work? And if so are you using Waggy's just for the flat tops? Could also use Chevy? I personally would use the Jeep stuff but asking just cause but I am curious.
4. Why Ford hubs and rotors? And I gather they work fine with the Waggy calipers?

Thanks
Dwayne


PS So no infractions this is still good current tech.
Oh yeah I talked to Bill and he said "Glad to see someone improved my idea."
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Old February 4th, 2009, 05:48 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by dwcjwerfner View Post
Hey there
I am new to this forum, actually ended up here following this link and could not find the original thread I linked this from NAXJA (or got tired of looking) so I signed up here because of this article. It looks very good but can you give me some more details?
1. Are you still running this and if so on what gears and tires?
2. Have you/how many times have you broke this? If so have you tried chromoly axles and do they still break?
3. Does any D44 outer work? And if so are you using Waggy's just for the flat tops? Could also use Chevy? I personally would use the Jeep stuff but asking just cause but I am curious.
4. Why Ford hubs and rotors? And I gather they work fine with the Waggy calipers?

Thanks
Dwayne


PS So no infractions this is still good current tech.
Oh yeah I talked to Bill and he said "Glad to see someone improved my idea."
1) ran it for a few months with 36" Iroks and 37" ssr's but never wheeled it
2) never broke it but had a Super 30 kit for it (ended up going back to a regular hp30 so I could run Moab wheels).
3)I used the waggy stuff for flat tops, chevy stuff is the same and ford stuff will work if you don't want high steer
4) Ford hubs and rotors for 5x5.5" bolt pattern to match dual pattern tj 44 rear axle shafts. Yes everything worked great.

I did run into issues with the tie rod hitting the coils that I never fixed. I did read that there is a manufacture that makes longer high steer arms that will clear just don't remember off hand which ones.

I would say with the super 30 kit it would have no problem on 35's, ok on 36's.

I built this as I see no point on spending the amount of money it takes to build a hp44 because it is not a big enough gain in strength. For the money either run a hp30 or build a dana 60 if you need anything more.

Last edited by Jeepaholic; February 4th, 2009 at 05:52 PM.
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Old February 4th, 2009, 07:56 PM   #32
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Thanks for the info.
I will be running 36" Iroks but I have a pretty light foot so I will see how long it lasts. If I go to 60's I will build a buggy to go on top of it.

Dwayne
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Old February 4th, 2009, 09:08 PM   #33
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will dana 44 tubes work for this? i have a scout 44 front end sitting around and a hp dana 30 out of an xj? are the tube sizes too far off or could i still use them?
thanks
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Old February 4th, 2009, 09:22 PM   #34
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the xj uses 2.5" 1/4" wall and so does a cj 30. the 44 most likely is 2.75" 3/8"+ wall thickness. I am sure you could make it work but not as easy as the cj parts. Cj 30's are so cheap I usually get free housings. I have 2 right now

I also thought about using the same sort of design but build a wide track hp30
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Old April 9th, 2009, 11:30 PM   #35
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http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ry_Code=BP-B_S
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 12:04 PM   #36
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almost a year later i dig up this thread. who has this axle now and how has it been holding up? I just built a housing and am finishing it up and wondering how it has been working for you guys.
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Old September 5th, 2010, 12:30 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billaksblazer View Post
almost a year later i dig up this thread. who has this axle now and how has it been holding up? I just built a housing and am finishing it up and wondering how it has been working for you guys.
I am curious as well. Any info on the longevity of this axle. I was thinking of the same thing, but was concerned about it holding up to a 37" tire. Does anyone know who has this axle now?
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Old September 5th, 2010, 06:04 PM   #38
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just buy good shafts and be done
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Old November 12th, 2010, 08:25 AM   #39
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Default Re: Tj/Xj/Yj D30 w/D44 Knuckles

This project seems worth most if not all the effort required to obtain the resulting strength and benefits of serviceable front wheel bearings.

However, I'm uncertain if the point regarding stronger ball joints is relevant. The OE HP D30 weak points are 1) axle tube wall thickness and 2) control arm mounting brackets on axle. Jeepaholic solved the tube issue. I have not heard of ball joint issues with the OE Xj HP D30 to know if this is an issue or not. My use off road use will always be mild so I am not an authority in this area. Can anyone comment?

I like this axle a lot but, would not want to choose this route if the end result was an axle with greater width than my Xj's. I am also interested in the outer D44 knuckles that are available from Reid Racing. They are not inexpensive but are a less involved solution for much of these same benefits. Does anyone know which of these two solutions is stronger? We have to make sure we are comparing apples to apples...

PRO's
Lockouts - agreed
Serviceable bearings - the ticket!
Bigger brakes - agreed
Stronger ball joints - uncertain?
High steer for less $$$ - Many Xj folks I talk to indicate this is unnecessary; need could be usage dependent.
Parts availability - agreed
Added tube strength (if you sleeve the whole tube) - agreed

CON's
Added axle width - Can we prevent this if we choose to build this axle?
Welding required (for some) - You can always pay to have this done.
Wheel bolt pattern changes - Only a potential con; no more negative.


Axle Part Cost is Excellent!
$60 for a waggy 44 (flat tops, spindles, brakes)
$50 for ford hubs and rotors
$100 for the XJ 30
-$10 for the cj 30 (tonka?)

Plus high steer arms and machining for ~$200. The discussions I have held with people regarding this issue is that it is not necessary. However, may usage is mild; no rocks, etc. My limits may be far less than need concern others.

I am also concerned regarding the simplicity this posting suggests. Meaning, how much more work is involved than is actually presented? For example, since the D30 lacks outer shaft bearings we need not be concerned regarding the alignment of the finished housing with regard to the shaft/bearing rotation axis. Is everything presented here or, does it get more complicated than this?

Rick
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Old November 12th, 2010, 08:36 AM   #40
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Width can be kept the same as the stock axle but will require custom inner shafts, the billavista write up did this.

Just look at the dana 44 ball joints and the dana 30 they are larger.

The reid knuckles do make easy work of this mod but will also add the same width as this axle did.

By sleeving the axle it keeps everything straight enough all you need to worry about is making sure caster is the same on each side.
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