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Old November 11th, 2007, 02:52 PM   #1
willaw30
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TTB vs SAS

I got a 93 F-150 with a 6" lift 35s. A friend is parting out a 78 and is giving me the front axle with track bar, arms and everything else I need. My dilema is this, I am building the truck as a trail rig so I am not going big. Staying with the 35s maybe 37s at the most. Has anyone out there done a sas, and what is all involved in it. Or would the ttb hold up to moderate abuse with D50 inner axles and cv with yukon itermediate and outers?
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Old November 11th, 2007, 04:03 PM   #2
88fordman
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ttb can last a long time if you are good to it. personally I like ttb. I am on my 2nd lifted ttb truck (the first was a 88 f-150). I had 33's on my dana 44 ttb and I beat the crap out of it, no problems. you can get sick amounts of flex out of these trucks. my 93 ranger flexes out like a mo fo. if you get your steering angles correct they do fine on the road too.
i guess it depends on your driving style and preferance. personally i like them because nobody else seems to and I know how they act and work.
I was a tech at a Ford dealership and have done mnay alignments on them and now I see them on B-series trucks at my mazda dealer.
good luck and if you have TTB questions let let me know.
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Old November 11th, 2007, 07:44 PM   #3
willaw30
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I like the way the truck wheels now and it still drives good. What did you do to yours to get flex? I will be getting extended radius arms, I was just holding out trying to figure out which axle to use.
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Old November 11th, 2007, 08:41 PM   #4
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I have done several solid axle swpas to these trucks. Actually i believe i have a complete set of brackets on the shelf for your application. If you are interested in some pics send me a pm with your email. If you have some questions as to the pros and cons i can give you my number and we can talk.
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Old November 11th, 2007, 09:44 PM   #5
88fordman
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my ranger actaully just has a Rough Country el cheapo lift on it. stock arms w/drop brackets. Every front susp. bushing is poly (simply because I got a great deal on a kit from somebody) I also tore off my sway bar and it flexes out great. it handles ok on the road (it is my DD). the biggest problem with TTB is that the camber change during suspension travel is extremely drastic.

another problem is the way the shock mounts are. they really eat up the upper shock bushings after you lift them. I installed factory Super Duty shock mounts to get rid of that upper mount on mine.

there is a reason why desert runner guys run I beam suspenions...mad travel with simplicity. it really depends on the effort you want to put into makeing the angles right and setting the alignment correctly.
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Old November 11th, 2007, 10:52 PM   #6
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1) the biggest problem with TTB is the TOE CHANGE when you lift it, NOT THE CAMBER CHANGE. The toe change is what eats tires for lunch, not camber - if you set up the steering correctly you won't have a tire wear issue

see this thread here: http://greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=9287

I vote TTB - it's easy and cheap to make work, especially for anything you'll find in this state
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Old November 12th, 2007, 05:14 AM   #7
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if you modify your steering correctly the toe change can be minimalized, but with standard beams there is camber change that you really can't do much about.

remember I'm also talking about hard wheeling with a flexy suspension not road driving with a mudbog teeth shattering lift. i agree toe change is most peoples prolem, but after addressing that the camber is still there. good write up.
if you haven't noticed I also say stick with the TTB because cool guys flex like this V
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Old November 12th, 2007, 07:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88fordman View Post
if you modify your steering correctly the toe change can be minimalized, but with standard beams there is camber change that you really can't do much about.

remember I'm also talking about hard wheeling with a flexy suspension not road driving with a mudbog teeth shattering lift. i agree toe change is most peoples prolem, but after addressing that the camber is still there. good write up.
if you haven't noticed I also say stick with the TTB because cool guys flex like this V
No, I read everything you said, but I wanted to stress the toe thing because most of the times when I hear people ditched the TTB it's because "it wears tires like crazy" or "its weak" - both of which are totally false BS
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Old November 12th, 2007, 10:37 AM   #9
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I've been lucky to not have much of a tire wear issue. My luck has not been so lucky with shafts. I've broken the ears on an outside stub, blew up the hub, and have also broken the common inside stub. That is now upgraded with a D50 stub shaft.

This has all happened under my 35's. I don't have a heavy foot at all with my tired six. I'm running a very tight LS up front and a locker in the rear. So i know those have helped the situation too.

I'm saving for some 37's, although slightly worried.

If you are doing alot more pavement wheeling then I wouldn't worry about the 35's at all.
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Old November 12th, 2007, 11:01 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88fordman View Post
ttb can last a long time if you are good to it. personally I like ttb. I am on my 2nd lifted ttb truck (the first was a 88 f-150). I had 33's on my dana 44 ttb and I beat the crap out of it, no problems. you can get sick amounts of flex out of these trucks. my 93 ranger flexes out like a mo fo. if you get your steering angles correct they do fine on the road too.
i guess it depends on your driving style and preferance. personally i like them because nobody else seems to and I know how they act and work.
I was a tech at a Ford dealership and have done mnay alignments on them and now I see them on B-series trucks at my mazda dealer.
good luck and if you have TTB questions let let me know.
X2...............Love my TTB, mostly because it annoys my straight axle buddies.
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Old November 12th, 2007, 11:18 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooseracing View Post
I've been lucky to not have much of a tire wear issue. My luck has not been so lucky with shafts. I've broken the ears on an outside stub, blew up the hub, and have also broken the common inside stub. That is now upgraded with a D50 stub shaft.

This has all happened under my 35's. I don't have a heavy foot at all with my tired six. I'm running a very tight LS up front and a locker in the rear. So i know those have helped the situation too.

I'm saving for some 37's, although slightly worried.

If you are doing alot more pavement wheeling then I wouldn't worry about the 35's at all.
A lot of shaft breakage with these can be attributed to the yoke clearance (they bind under flex unless you clearance them) and the U-joint caps can "walk" around in the yoke (which can be solved by using full clip U-joints).....

See this article here: http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15

Granted most of those items focus on the D35, but they can be applied to the 44 and 50 (which are almost identical exept for shere size and the outer hubs)
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Old November 12th, 2007, 11:20 AM   #12
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i like my TTB under my b2. Removed the swaybars and running some soft RC coils, it flexes decent. As i lifted it, my toe was horrible. You can set toe yourself pretty easily as long as your not crabby about it being perfectly set. Your camber might go positive on you which is really common when u lift em. Id suggest getting coils that are not too stiff. Hard coils wont settle in unless u get air and slam down lol.
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Old November 12th, 2007, 11:23 AM   #13
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I have owned about 10 Broncos and my mildly built 81~84's seemed to outperform the 78 & 79's that I had especially on nasty rutted hills. I beat the crap out of my 81 and had to replace ball joints, other than that I broke one u-joint in the front axle. I mostly ran 32-33's until they rotted out enough to trim them for 35's. I have a 73 on 35's and I brake U-joints and front axles easily. I wheeled and used an 81 and 2 84's for about 15 years and a few hundred thousand miles. I liked the way my 78 & 79 drove on the road better but off road I liked the TTB.
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Old November 12th, 2007, 12:31 PM   #14
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I have owned about 10 Broncos and my mildly built 81~84's seemed to outperform the 78 & 79's that I had especially on nasty rutted hills. I beat the crap out of my 81 and had to replace ball joints, other than that I broke one u-joint in the front axle. I mostly ran 32-33's until they rotted out enough to trim them for 35's. I have a 73 on 35's and I brake U-joints and front axles easily. I wheeled and used an 81 and 2 84's for about 15 years and a few hundred thousand miles. I liked the way my 78 & 79 drove on the road better but off road I liked the TTB.
x2 My TTB is staying on my wheeling rig. My other ranger for the road is getting a SAS. Though ride quality is not why I'm doing it, I also wanted 4wd (currently 2wd) though I do think my TTB jumps around a bit much on the highway, no weird wear for the last 179.5 thousand miles, hell the ball joints and tie rod ends have never been changed, ever. I think the tie rod ends are going to be needed soon, there is just ever so little play in them, enough to barely notice.
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Old November 12th, 2007, 12:51 PM   #15
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If you choose to lift the TTB, keep in mind it is a great idea to make a cross member between the two radius arm drop brackets. The frame will flex until it starts to crack otherwise. I have seen it a couple of times, cheap to avoid.
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Old November 12th, 2007, 09:27 PM   #16
Smokeyn8
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any benifits swapping out a 44 with a 50? I have access to a 3/4 ton and was thinking about swapping out axels for better towing. ( 3.55's to 4.10's)?
but I've heard the 50 is a turd.
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Old November 12th, 2007, 09:51 PM   #17
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from what I've gathered, the shaft size is the same as a D44 (not too sure on that one), R&P is stronger, I'd imagine you'd get some better/stronger wheel bearings being I'd bet it's 8 lug (3/4 ton).

I don't think it's as much the 50 is a turd, but there's really not much of a strength increase and then your aftermarket goes to virtually zip.
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Old November 12th, 2007, 10:52 PM   #18
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sorry for the hijack but has anyone done or have pictures of z-cut extended radius arms for a 76-79 F150? Anyone advise against it?
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Old November 12th, 2007, 10:56 PM   #19
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The 50 is much beefier, no aftermarket support though. Ball joints-> out is same as a D60. I have an entire setup 4sale, though all D50 TTBs are leafs up front, leafs and TTBs don't work well together.
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Old November 13th, 2007, 11:04 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris1044 View Post
A lot of shaft breakage with these can be attributed to the yoke clearance (they bind under flex unless you clearance them) and the U-joint caps can "walk" around in the yoke (which can be solved by using full clip U-joints).....
There wasn't binding when i broke the slip shaft or the u-joints, the u-joints were only a year old, i think they had jsut fatigued enough. I had tacked the tops in so they wouldn't walk out as I have seen that enough times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ledd View Post
from what I've gathered, the shaft size is the same as a D44 (not too sure on that one), R&P is stronger, I'd imagine you'd get some better/stronger wheel bearings being I'd bet it's 8 lug (3/4 ton).
.
Yep the shafts neck down to the same size as a 44, so in the place that it matters over the 44 its no improvement
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