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Old October 31st, 2007, 08:09 PM   #1
montecarlo33
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Default Welding axles....streetable?

I have a dana 44 front and a 10 bolt rear on my 84 Chevy 1/2 running 38's. I want to upgrade to 1 tons in the future, but I was looking to see if I could weld them for the time being and how its done. I was wondering how you do it (pictures if you have them) and if there is any tips or tricks. Also since I only live less than 20 miles away from the mounds and they are mostly dirt roads if I COULD drive it on the street just to and from the mounds. I understand that I wouldnt be able to bust around corners, but have any of you drove your welded axle on the street? Thanks
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Old October 31st, 2007, 09:25 PM   #2
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I don't know that street driving is what I would worry about with a welded 10-bolt under the weight of a half-ton vehicle with V8 power.

If its not your DD, go ahead. If it were me, I would probably worry about breaking it.
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Old October 31st, 2007, 09:38 PM   #3
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I don't know that street driving is what I would worry about with a welded 10-bolt under the weight of a half-ton vehicle with V8 power.

If its not your DD, go ahead. If it were me, I would probably worry about breaking it.
Yeah its not a DD, But I dont want to do it and break it. I need it to last for a little while, and if I break it, it better be from my abuse in the mud! I at least wanna do it to the 44 becuase i can disengage it with the hubs. But I dont want to go though a rear end just because of all that extra tension of a welded rear.
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Old October 31st, 2007, 10:08 PM   #4
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I have a welded 8 3/4 under the rear of my TJ for about 3 years now and haven't broken in yet DD or offrosd with 35x 14.50 Boggers or Q78 Swampers.

I can almost guarantee you will break a 10 Bolt on 38s under a fullsize, however...
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Old October 31st, 2007, 11:55 PM   #5
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I can almost guarantee you will break a 10 Bolt on 38s under a fullsize, however...
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Old November 1st, 2007, 12:11 AM   #6
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sam, is it easier to weld inside or out of the housing.
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Old November 1st, 2007, 12:21 AM   #7
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sam, is it easier to weld inside or out of the housing.
you should tack them up inside with the axles in the side gears so they don't draw, then pull the carrier and weld it out on the bench so you get all the oil off it and its easier to see.
you should still run up hill tho
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Old November 1st, 2007, 12:34 AM   #8
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seeing my welding abilities are still amatuer, i might have you weld it for me.
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Old November 1st, 2007, 09:13 AM   #9
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pull cover off
drain oil
spray gears with solvent to remove oil
allow fumes and solvent to go away
heat gears with a torch
weld the valleys where the gears mesh (this will be 4 spots on each side of the carrier)

Clean up slag, put the cover on, and gear lube in.

Removing the carrier is overrated.
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Old November 1st, 2007, 09:44 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by montecarlo33 View Post
I have a dana 44 front and a 10 bolt rear on my 84 Chevy 1/2 running 38's. I want to upgrade to 1 tons in the future, but I was looking to see if I could weld them for the time being and how its done. I was wondering how you do it (pictures if you have them) and if there is any tips or tricks. Also since I only live less than 20 miles away from the mounds and they are mostly dirt roads if I COULD drive it on the street just to and from the mounds. I understand that I wouldnt be able to bust around corners, but have any of you drove your welded axle on the street? Thanks
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Old November 1st, 2007, 01:22 PM   #11
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if you do alot of road driving, you can get some vibration from a welded rear on the road.. spool it if you want to be on the road alot and have it drive smooth.
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Old November 1st, 2007, 01:55 PM   #12
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if you do alot of road driving, you can get some vibration from a welded rear on the road.. spool it if you want to be on the road alot and have it drive smooth.

Why would a welded have vibration and a spool not?
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Old November 1st, 2007, 02:37 PM   #13
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pic of welded rearend. This is under my derby car, took several shots to the back tires and still held up
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Old November 1st, 2007, 02:44 PM   #14
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Why would a welded have vibration and a spool not?
Out of balance.
I try and even mine out when I do them, and spool is probly lighter.=less rotating mass.
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Old November 1st, 2007, 02:54 PM   #15
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when you weld a rear you will not always have the same weld all the way around.think how fast it is spinning when you go down the road. if it is heavy in a spot it will vibrate. ask wheelsofsteele, we did his a few months ago and he is looking for a spool now.
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Old November 1st, 2007, 04:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liv2mx View Post
when you weld a rear you will not always have the same weld all the way around.think how fast it is spinning when you go down the road. if it is heavy in a spot it will vibrate. ask wheelsofsteele, we did his a few months ago and he is looking for a spool now.
ive welded alot of rearends and never had this problem. i could see it happening tho
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Old November 1st, 2007, 04:16 PM   #17
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this is the first one for me also. never had a prob before. he is driving on the street everyday. is very picky on any noise or vib. so a spool he shall have.
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Old November 1st, 2007, 04:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motor Slut View Post
pull cover off
drain oil
spray gears with solvent to remove oil
allow fumes and solvent to go away
heat gears with a torch
weld the valleys where the gears mesh (this will be 4 spots on each side of the carrier)

Clean up slag, put the cover on, and gear lube in.

Removing the carrier is overrated.
i ve done alot of them this way.
but as a professional welder its easier on my back, and youl get a more quality more even weld profile with it sitting on the bench
plus, no need to heat gears with a torch with dc stick, you wont get any better penetration so all you are doing is expanding the heat affected zone
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Old November 1st, 2007, 04:22 PM   #19
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this is the first one for me also. never had a prob before. he is driving on the street everyday. is very picky on any noise or vib. so a spool he shall have.
at least its a cheap always on strong fix
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Old November 1st, 2007, 05:26 PM   #20
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Thanks for the input fellas. I think I am gunna wait for the rear end for when I get a 14 bolt. Should be fine just welding the front Dana 44 right?
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