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Old October 29th, 2007, 10:01 PM   #21
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Maybe you dont see what I can see bc of the bad pics.

The drag link has TONZ of room, its in front of the whole shitting match.

The tracbar is in a dead straight line with the mount it goes to, BUT, it has some goofy ass kinks and bulges in it, making it hit the tie rod. I think by moving/bending the tracbar, everything will bolt up peachy.

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Old October 29th, 2007, 10:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Not really seeing much in the pics.

My guess is its time to refab your track bar mount. You'l got a lot of non-stock parts under there, not easy always to make it fit.

How is your track bar mount compared to the stock dana 30? Can it move rearward at all? Looks like its mounted in front of the axle? Or is it just laying there.
That steering set up should work. Modify your trac bar mount and/or trac bar. Be sure to keep the draglink and tracbar as parallel to each other as possible. You can acheive this by having a slight bend in the tracbar as well ... just not bent toward the draglink.
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Old October 29th, 2007, 10:31 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by silverxj View Post
That steering set up should work. Modify your trac bar mount and/or trac bar. Be sure to keep the draglink and tracbar as parallel to each other as possible. You can acheive this by having a slight bend in the tracbar as well ... just not bent toward the draglink.
thats what I like to hear
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Old October 29th, 2007, 10:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverxj View Post
That steering set up should work. Modify your trac bar mount and/or trac bar. Be sure to keep the draglink and tracbar as parallel to each other as possible. You can acheive this by having a slight bend in the tracbar as well ... just not bent toward the draglink.
It's not actually about the drag link and track bar being parallel, as many track bars are not straight;

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Originally Posted by Monkeyevil View Post
Your letting bends and stuff trick your eyes... your only concerned with the centerline of where the drag link and trac bar attach.



Going over the knuckle is a lot of work with our steering system because there are no bends in the rods or the TRE's to clear the coil buckets. It not only gets the steering up out of the way, but it makes a great drag link angle, and it drives better than stock.

Do you have a picture of the front of your Jeep? Maybe I can give you some ideas on helping the angles? I have seen some seemingly pretty bad ones with little bump steer though...
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Old October 29th, 2007, 10:34 PM   #25
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^ Pretty much what I meant ... just not as well described.


Hope it works out for ya!
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Old October 29th, 2007, 10:43 PM   #26
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Is the 1 3/4 .25 wall DOM I used overkill? :D
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Old October 30th, 2007, 12:43 AM   #27
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I've cut track bars at the bend, twisted them, then butt welded the tube with a plug welded sleeve inside; to get steering clearance.
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Old October 30th, 2007, 05:58 AM   #28
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...butt welded the tube with a plug...
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Old October 30th, 2007, 08:11 AM   #29
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Quote:
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cross over + hi steer was my intention.... (does this not work )

the passenger side arm has two holes, one for drag link, one to the tie rod, driver side has just the hole for the tie rod.

Are you attaching the tie-rod to the correct hole on the passenger knuckle? The whole problem is that the tie-rod is too close to other components due to being located too far aft in the vehicle. Well, look how much farther rearward your tie-rod is now located compared to its previous location on the passenger knuckle. Questions:

Are you sure the tie-rod is supposed to go into the rear hole on the knuckle?

Did you try it in the front for shits and giggles and see if the drag link actually contacts anything?



Let's see pictures of each knuckle (with the camera flash on).
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Old October 30th, 2007, 08:27 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJToivo View Post
Maybe you dont see what I can see bc of the bad pics.

The drag link has TONZ of room, its in front of the whole shitting match.

The tie rod (you mean track bar right?) is in a dead straight line with the mount it goes to, BUT, it has some goofy ass kinks and bulges in it, making it hit the tie rod. I think by moving/bending the tracbar, everything will bolt up peachy.
The drag link is NOT the problem, it is the tie rod. You might get everything to clear with the wheels straight, but when you turn the tie rod will hit the drag link.
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Old October 30th, 2007, 09:50 AM   #31
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leave your steering alone, your track bar sucks.

move the track bar mount up on the axle so it is parallel/equal length to the drag link, if you fail to at least get them close and leave them like an "X" your truck will get bump steer like a crack addict quitting cold turkey twitches

you shouldnt need any more than 1.5x.120 for a track bar. maybe 1.25x.188 if its easier to package. it its bent then stick with the 1.5" and dont make stupid bends.
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Old October 30th, 2007, 02:45 PM   #32
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IDK if this will help u but I helped a buddy do his steering and he used Chevy 1ton TRE's and did semi hi steer and it works perfect. I only have the one pic.

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Old October 30th, 2007, 02:53 PM   #33
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Did ya make any progress today Tovio? :dunie:
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Old October 30th, 2007, 04:17 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder View Post
Are you attaching the tie-rod to the correct hole on the passenger knuckle? The whole problem is that the tie-rod is too close to other components due to being located too far aft in the vehicle. Well, look how much farther rearward your tie-rod is now located compared to its previous location on the passenger knuckle. Questions:

Are you sure the tie-rod is supposed to go into the rear hole on the knuckle?

Did you try it in the front for shits and giggles and see if the drag link actually contacts anything?



Let's see pictures of each knuckle (with the camera flash on).
No, I am not sure of where the tie rod is supposed to go.

I am assuming, probably incorrectly, that there are two holes on the pass side knuckle, and that the front is for the draglink, the rear is for the tie rod.

Nothing is seeming to fit as of now, I think my best bet is to get some different, longer steering arms. These ones might work better on a leaf sprung vehicle, just too much monkeybusiness in the front end of mine now.

Recommendations as to longer hi steer arm setup for TRE's would be appreciated. Cost is a BIG factor. Thanks!
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Old October 30th, 2007, 04:19 PM   #35
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IDK if this will help u but I helped a buddy do his steering and he used Chevy 1ton TRE's and did semi hi steer and it works perfect. I only have the one pic.

Holy extreme lifted XJ.
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Old October 30th, 2007, 04:23 PM   #36
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leave your steering alone, your track bar sucks.

move the track bar mount up on the axle so it is parallel/equal length to the drag link, if you fail to at least get them close and leave them like an "X" your truck will get bump steer like a crack addict quitting cold turkey twitches

you shouldnt need any more than 1.5x.120 for a track bar. maybe 1.25x.188 if its easier to package. it its bent then stick with the 1.5" and dont make stupid bends.
I totally realize that the drag link/tracbar has to be close to the same plane of being parallel. That is a whole different story than what is going on now. As of now, everything hits each other because, A. I poorly designed things, B. Not a lot of lift complicates things somewhat, and C. the hi steer arms are not long enough.

I am working towards finishing this one step at a time
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Old October 30th, 2007, 04:37 PM   #37
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No, I am not sure of where the tie rod is supposed to go.

I am assuming, probably incorrectly, that there are two holes on the pass side knuckle, and that the front is for the draglink, the rear is for the tie rod.

That's the way it usually is - draglink in front, tie-rod in the back. Measure the length from the ball joint to the hole in the driver's side. That will tell you which hole its supposed to be on the passenger side.

But yeah, it seems that Extreme Engineering made their arms extremely short. I'm sure it was to keep the linkage as far away from obstacles as possible, but they didn't give you much room to work.

Relocating the track bar mount to approximately the 12 o'clock position on the tube like 95Geo said should probably fix everything and will also allow you to put it nice and parallel with the drag link.
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Old October 30th, 2007, 04:49 PM   #38
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That's the way it usually is - draglink in front, tie-rod in the back. Measure the length from the ball joint to the hole in the driver's side. That will tell you which hole its supposed to be on the passenger side.

But yeah, it seems that Extreme Engineering made their arms extremely short. I'm sure it was to keep the linkage as far away from obstacles as possible, but they didn't give you much room to work.

Relocating the track bar mount to approximately the 12 o'clock position on the tube like 95Geo said should probably fix everything and will also allow you to put it nice and parallel with the drag link.
I measured first, that is why I put the tie rod where I thought it went.

Yeah, these arms are short, they can't be more than 10 inches long each.

I am sorta hesitant to cut up an almost new JKS tracbar, but if thats what it takes than whatever. I was fiddlling around underneath the XJ earlier and found there wasnt much clearance between the upper tracbar mount and the diff.

I may have to lift the XJ more :sad:
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Old October 30th, 2007, 04:55 PM   #39
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I measured first, that is why I put the tie rod where I thought it went.

Yeah, these arms are short, they can't be more than 10 inches long each.

I am sorta hesitant to cut up an almost new JKS tracbar, but if thats what it takes than whatever. I was fiddlling around underneath the XJ earlier and found there wasnt much clearance between the upper tracbar mount and the diff.

I may have to lift the XJ more :sad:
Gee, that would suck.
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Old October 30th, 2007, 04:57 PM   #40
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Gee, that would suck.
Yes it would because it would delay this build another year. I cant afford any more lift, new driveshafts, or to longarm it right now.

As of now its at 5-5.5 on 37s. And I dont wanna go any higher anyways.
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