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Old October 24th, 2007, 06:15 PM   #1
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Default D30 steering idea

I thought about making some sort of bracket to run a cross over style steering on my D30 in my XJ a while back. Mainly because i haven't found WJ knuckles for a good price.

This is what i found and what iam thinking of making www.phatjeeps.com


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Old October 24th, 2007, 06:17 PM   #2
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interesting idea. Id like to see if those plates warp/bend/crack at all ever.
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Old October 24th, 2007, 06:32 PM   #3
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I am gonna build one of that them ther hybrid 30's and do a write up. Should work out pretty slick, but I am going to 5x5.5 wheels
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Old October 24th, 2007, 06:34 PM   #4
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Yea thats what i'm wondering about too.

But you could ad a third horizontal plate that would go below the knucle end to stiffen it up
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Old October 24th, 2007, 06:36 PM   #5
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looks like they tied the new bracket in to the old tie rod hole. should work fine
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Old October 24th, 2007, 06:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJToivo View Post
interesting idea. Id like to see if those plates warp/bend/crack at all ever.
Really shouldn't be an issuse. If you look at it they are tied into the old tie rod holes in the knuckle. As long as you make themthick enough and weld them properly. Also, make sure to use a small AL cush sleeve, with a taper, in the knuckle when you mount them to the knucke.

The ORO U-Turn runs a similar set-up, I haven't heard of anyone braking a plate in the 2yrs they have been out.
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Old October 24th, 2007, 08:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
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looks like they tied the new bracket in to the old tie rod hole. should work fine
x2
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Old October 24th, 2007, 10:49 PM   #8
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The crappy part of that kit is the draglink attaches to the top of the bracket in single sheer. Heims are bad enough for steering, let alone leaving them in single sheer.
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Old October 24th, 2007, 11:11 PM   #9
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you could always make it double sheer
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Old October 25th, 2007, 10:32 AM   #10
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That is putting a lot of force on the two hub bolts. (that thread into cast) as it will try and rotate around the bolt in the stock arm.

It might be fine, but I would probably go to grade 8, 1/2 on the hub bolts. I've drilled and tapped hubs to that before (when the stock threads were stripped) and it worked great.

Do they drill and tap some small studs on the top of the arm as well?
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Old October 25th, 2007, 11:18 AM   #11
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as far as i can tell nothing on top just the 2 hub bolts and one through the knuckle.

And another idea would be to make a bracket that is just for the passenger side like ORO and set it up for TRE's It wouldn't raise anything other then the drag link but you could still run TRE for longevity... hmm soon as i get solidworks working again i'll draw something up
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Old October 25th, 2007, 11:25 AM   #12
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I plan on doing something similar to ORO's setup.

Like this but on top.

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Old October 25th, 2007, 12:04 PM   #13
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I just had my tie-rod flipped and everything is groovy. What's this going to get you that an OTK conversion won't besides more clearance between the tie-rod and diff cover/coil pads, etc?

Last edited by PävementPounder; October 25th, 2007 at 12:16 PM.
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Old October 25th, 2007, 12:13 PM   #14
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I just had my tie-rod flipped and everything is groovy. What's this going to get you that an OTK conversion won't besides more clearance between the tie-ron and diff cover/coil pads, etc?
another thing I have thought about also.

probably 3/4" more clearence but that is about it.
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Old October 25th, 2007, 12:17 PM   #15
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another thing I have thought about also.

probably 3/4" more clearence but that is about it.
I'm sure you could build the bracketry taller, but I'm not understanding any huge benefit in the examples shown.
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Old October 25th, 2007, 12:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I'm sure you could build the bracketry taller, but I'm not understanding any huge benefit in the examples shown.
exactly.

it would be more of a bolt on hit.

for his setup he could of easily just drilled the knuckle and ran it that way with alot less work.


im thinking of just doing OTK with a GM 1ton style steering. the only advantage is that you would not have the one joint where the draglink meets the tie rod. that sort of seems like the weak link in the setup incase you hit that. which is sort of unlikely. carrying a spare one reamed and ready would easily solve that problem though.
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Old October 25th, 2007, 12:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder View Post
I just had my tie-rod flipped and everything is groovy. What's this going to get you that an OTK conversion won't besides more clearance between the tie-rod and diff cover/coil pads, etc?
did you just go to a chevy TRE for an inverted T set-up?

Another advantage is a longer drag link over a t style set up... not much but a bit
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Old October 25th, 2007, 12:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
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did you just go to a chevy TRE for an inverted T set-up?

Another advantage is a longer drag link over a t style set up... not much but a bit
Yes. My steering started out as JCR's standard-issue 1-ton. Replaced that end and reamed it from the other side for the OTK flip.
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Old October 25th, 2007, 01:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder View Post
I just had my tie-rod flipped and everything is groovy. What's this going to get you that an OTK conversion won't besides more clearance between the tie-rod and diff cover/coil pads, etc?
I totally agree w/ this.

I don't want to trash the idea, but it seems like a waste of money?
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Old October 25th, 2007, 01:20 PM   #20
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For someone who has the capability to fab stuff, I don't know if I would call it a "waste". The OTK converstion does present some interference issues, but it wasn't a lot of interference and nothing that couldn't be solved with a grinder. It should be noted that I also did not have the factory sway-bar link mounts to deal with, which would have presented another interference issue. I have Teraflex mounts welded onto the knuckle yokes.
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