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Old October 19th, 2007, 09:29 PM   #1
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Default ARB air v. Detroit Lock

I understand the mechanical difference between an air locker and a detroit.. It seems the ARB runs $850-$950 installed and the detroit is about $600-$700... What else do I need to consider in choosing between them? This is going into a DD if that impacts your answer..
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Old October 19th, 2007, 09:32 PM   #2
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With the ARB you have a compressor, air lines, and switches that can fail. With a Detroit, it is a straight up locker.

For a DD, I would go with a limited slip locker, or if you want a full locker, get a lockright or aussie, half the price of a detorit.

Just my $.02.
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Old October 19th, 2007, 09:37 PM   #3
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or if you want a full locker, get a lockright or aussie, half the price of a detorit.

Just my $.02.
I've seen the aussie locker mentioned before.. Are they any good?? I get nervious when I hear half price.. Do they hold up off-road and work the same on-road as a detroit?
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Old October 19th, 2007, 09:39 PM   #4
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I've seen the aussie locker mentioned before.. Are they any good?? I get nervious when I hear half price.. Do they hold up off-road and work the same on-road as a detroit?
A lot of guys swear by Aussie. They are so popular, for some axles it is a 2-3 month wait to get them.

They are just a lunchbox style locker. The biggest difference (I beleive) is that a Detroit replaces the entire carrier, where as a lunchbox style only replaces the spider and side gears, and you use the existing carrier.
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Old October 19th, 2007, 09:46 PM   #5
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ive seen ox lockers are they any good?
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Old October 19th, 2007, 09:57 PM   #6
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I'm also curious as to the DD driveability of a ratchet type locker (i.e the detroit / aussie)... My wife will be driving the Jeep.. The way I understand the way the click-clack lockers work, they lock when engine torque is applied. Can this be a problem on road .. say a rainy day going around a corner? If the wife applies only a little gas while cornering, will it lock on her or do you really need to homp on it to get it to lock..
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Old October 19th, 2007, 10:08 PM   #7
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I have a 04 silverado to fall back on, but my yj is basicly my DD. I run a detroit in the back and an aussie in the front. Never had a problem with either. I am partial to the detroit over all others due to it's long time in production and the fact that there are no air lines, wires or cables. I've seen ARB's lose lines and seen OX's have all kinds of issues. There are times that it it nice to turn off the locker while wheeling, but to me it doesn't justify the changing from the Detroit.

Just my .02
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Old October 19th, 2007, 10:11 PM   #8
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I'm also curious as to the DD driveability of a ratchet type locker (i.e the detroit / aussie)... My wife will be driving the Jeep.. The way I understand the way the click-clack lockers work, they lock when engine torque is applied. Can this be a problem on road .. say a rainy day going around a corner? If the wife applies only a little gas while cornering, will it lock on her or do you really need to homp on it to get it to lock..
There is a road that I drive on regularly with a lot of curves, I did notice a difference under acceleration while driving on those curves. I have gotten used to it and now I don't even notice.
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Old October 19th, 2007, 10:44 PM   #9
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what axle are you considering locking (and putting $650++ bucks into)?
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Old October 19th, 2007, 10:46 PM   #10
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what axle are you considering locking (and putting $650++ bucks into)?
The question that we all should have asked.
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Old October 19th, 2007, 10:53 PM   #11
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what axle are you considering locking (and putting $650++ bucks into)?
Oh.. yeah.. I'm going to lock the stock D44 in my LJ then get it on 33's... In a couple years I'll upgrade to a stronger axle when I go to 37's and sell the complete D44 w/ locker..

Sounds like everyone is behind the detroit..
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Old October 19th, 2007, 11:11 PM   #12
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I would not have an ARB . I have seen them fail way to many times on the trail . Never the locker its self but the air source , air line , all ways something bites them in the ass .

Also you are pricing the locker at 900 , now price all the shit that you need with it , $1,500 is more like it unless they have came way down .
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Old October 19th, 2007, 11:55 PM   #13
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IMO
You will do well with a Detroit. The Detroit will also be resellable(is that a word) when you change the axle. There will be a good market for a used 44 detroit.
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Old October 20th, 2007, 12:19 AM   #14
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I run Aussie's front and rear and am very happy with them. I've got lockouts on the front so it doesn't even come into play for DD'ing. The rear took some getting used to. it takes very little gas for it to engage and once it does, it wants to push you straight. It also will occasionally bang pretty good when I accelerate and the ratchet mechanics aren't lined up. No biggie, I just got used to the noise and it doesn't happen very often. never had any trouble in the rain. in snow you'll have to learn how to drive it again with any locker other than a selectable. Everyone who says they don't notice a difference in the snow is either lying to you or lying to themselves. I'm not saying it's bad, it's just different.

So the pros of the lunchies:
1. big time cheap comparatively. I've got both my axles locked for less the $650 and that includes the cost of new gear oil, new RTV (actually lubelockers for me), shipping, and a new Zitanium crosspin for the 44 front.
2. Easy to install, no gear set up costs if you can't do that yourself. I did my own and had them done in a couple hours - working carefully and slowly
3. Aussie doesn't have a tire limit on their warrenty
4. Did I say they are cheap.

The con's of lunchies:
1. Always on basically
2. ratcheting noises
3. they rely on the strength of you stock differential carrier rather than a full locker that is the carrier.
4. Personally, I think Lock rights suck - I know three vehicles that have used them and 2 have broken with relative ease. Both were 33" tires and 4.0L motors. I haven't met anyone that has broken an aussie (though, I'm sure their out there.)
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Old October 20th, 2007, 01:30 AM   #15
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on the street a detroit will act the same as an aussie locker. but it costs less.

id vote for the aussie for a dd.

detroit if you wheel lots or have money to burn.
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Old October 20th, 2007, 01:48 AM   #16
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I run a detroit locker in my 9". When I step into the pedal the jeep will pull to one side.... when i let off the gas to cost, it will pull to one side.

This is due to it locking and un-locking.

I do drive the jeep alot as a DD and if you do step on it to hard it will lock both rear tires and get you sideways.....but I have a built mopar 360. You def. do have to get use to the way it drives. After a few weeks you won't notice it.
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Old October 20th, 2007, 02:08 AM   #17
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I always wonder why the guys running detroits don't just run a spool. Most of the guys I know that run a detroit say it's pretty much locked all the time (unless your coasting). Of coarse I don't own one so what the hell do I know?
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Old October 20th, 2007, 02:47 AM   #18
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The Detroit stays locked more often on a shorter or lighter vehicle. Just not enough force to pop it. I have one in my 7000 lb+ Ram with 40's on a pretty long wheelbase and its great. The one in the 8.25 on my XJ DD is functionally fine, but never seems to want to unlock. For that reason I'm going ARB on the next set of axles that are currently being built for it.


Air line failures are typically a result of routing. Protect the lines better.
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Old October 20th, 2007, 08:15 AM   #19
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Pretty much an echo of alot of the posts. But as you are aware, when you bring up the topic of lockers, limited slips, and selectables...You really should be comparing 'apples to apples'.

When building my CJ5 I considered a Detroit for the rear, then thought better because the vehicle would be driven quite a bit on hard pavement in a variety of weather conditions and I would be retaining the narrow track. I wanted the open differential at those time. So I went with ARB's in the 20. I did the same with the 30 because even though I have hub locks, I'd rather have the control to select the locking/unlocking action. The vehicle will never run anything larger than a 32"-34" tire, and will not see heavy abuse. Otherwise, I'd of upgraded the axles. A recommend: If you're going to axle upgrade in the future, toss in a 'lunchbox' or wait for the bigger axle. You may get a bit more for a 'locked' 44. But not much if it's not the gearing someone else wants.

I understand the concerns about the air lines, but I also believe that proper routing and/or carrying a repair splice will get you out of most difficulties. I upgraded to SS braided lines on my CJ and they are all routed high on the frame rails. The actual ARB compressor/wiring is first class and is 'plug and play'.




And if you can't do the actual locker install, you can save some $$$ and do the compressor install yourself. It's a very simple job once you've made the decision on where to locate the compressor. And you can always adapt your own OBA to work the lockers. My thought is if you are going to run an ARB, you might as well run one front/rear.

So, think about the primary usage for the vehicle, the roads and surfaces you drive on daily, and the off road use that the vehicle will see. And the future upgrades. If you go ARB, and later upgrade to bigger axles, you've already purchased/plumbed the compressor.
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Old October 20th, 2007, 10:17 AM   #20
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Choices choices... I don't think a ratchet locker would bother me on road - sounds like I'd learn to live with it. If it's really is locked most of the time, does it kill your tires?

I bought my LJ to summer DD and wheel monthly year-round.. I'm trying to improve it's trailworthyness without making it unpleasant to drive on the street.. I figured a small lift, 33's, new bumpers and winch would tide me over till it wore out and I'd go more extreme (37's+, upgrade axles, etc).

Also - I think when I looked up the $900 price on the ARB it maybe didn't include the pump or plumbing..
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