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Old October 10th, 2007, 10:17 PM   #21
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mr. beefy or boggin?
Reporting in Sir!

Run 33's dude.... 35's and you will break shit with the skinny pedal
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Old October 10th, 2007, 11:13 PM   #22
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I'm surprised no one has brought up HP vs LP. Makes no difference in shaft strength but the HP30 is stronger in forward gear than the LP is.
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Old October 11th, 2007, 01:29 AM   #23
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I'm surprised no one has brought up HP vs LP. Makes no difference in shaft strength but the HP30 is stronger in forward gear than the LP is.
Not many people break d30 gears, and when they do it's usually because of poor setup, or poor lubrication.
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Old October 11th, 2007, 12:04 PM   #24
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poor lubrication.
i hate poor lubrication :tonka:
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Old October 11th, 2007, 12:16 PM   #25
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yeah i have heard of people almost burning up gears because they forgot to put diff. fluid in it.
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Old October 11th, 2007, 12:35 PM   #26
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that guy is a complete fucking retard i have wheeled with him a few times.
x2. He just doesnt know when to stop, plus he likes the attention:tonka: :tonka:
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Old October 11th, 2007, 01:34 PM   #27
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like everyone else has said, 35s if you're smart, 33s if you think the right pedal will get you through it

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Originally Posted by Pre4runner View Post
I'm on 36's and pounded the piss out of the d30 at the pig gig with it unlocked...

When i got it home i found 2 pinion teeth missing... only had 600 miles on the new superior 4.56 set... Shafts held though.
sounds to me like you didnt break the gears in and/or they were setup wrong.

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so many factors
how are your steering stops set? do you monitor them during the trips to make sure the caps aren't getting pushed out and the ears aren't loosening up on the cap also?

I would like to know what you are running for shafts and joints. when/where do the shafts let loose? yoke? ears? splines? while at full lock?
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Old October 11th, 2007, 01:45 PM   #28
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like everyone else has said, 35s if you're smart, 33s if you think the right pedal will get you through it



sounds to me like you didnt break the gears in and/or they were setup wrong.



how are your steering stops set? do you monitor them during the trips to make sure the caps aren't getting pushed out and the ears aren't loosening up on the cap also?

I would like to know what you are running for shafts and joints. when/where do the shafts let loose? yoke? ears? splines? while at full lock?

I am running warn 30 spline outters, 1 alloy inner now, and 1 inner shortned f-250 shaft. I am running one spicer right now and one percison super joint. But when ever i broke the joints it was a spicer i believe.

my shafts only rip the ears off so i dont reallly "break" the shaft just the ears off. I broke 3 ujoints and 2 shafts within a week. I think I just got unlucky and threw a clip and threw a cap or something 1 of the time. the other two times the u-joint completely failed. 1 time i was lucky enough not to take out any shafts. other two times I wasnt.

I havent broke one latley. I am thinking it was just a fluke.

soon upgrading to all 4 alloy shafts instead of 3 out of 4 and some CTM's or something. I always avoid hammering down when at full lock.

I wheeled 5-6 months without breakages so i think it was a fluke or just bad luck :tonka:

I guess I need to go 60's because im hardcore :tonka:

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Old October 11th, 2007, 01:56 PM   #29
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I am running warn 30 spline outters, 1 alloy inner now, and 1 inner shortned f-250 shaft. I am running one spicer right now and one percison super joint. But when ever i broke the joints it was a spicer i believe.

my shafts only rip the ears off so i dont reallly "break" the shaft just the ears off. I broke 3 ujoints and 2 shafts within a week. I think I just got unlucky and threw a clip and threw a cap or something 1 of the time. the other two times the u-joint completely failed. 1 time i was lucky enough not to take out any shafts. other two times I wasnt.

I havent broke one latley. I am thinking it was just a fluke.

soon upgrading to all 4 alloy shafts instead of 3 out of 4 and some CTM's or something. I always avoid hammering down when at full lock.

I wheeled 5-6 months without breakages so i think it was a fluke or just bad luck :tonka:

I guess I need to go 60's because im hardcore :tonka:

ok, that makes sense.

keep an eye on the caps every time you get out, if one starts to twist or back out fix it right there. it will save you a broken shaft.

i woud go with longfield 300m joints and alloy usa or superior shafts, depending on your budget.
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Old October 11th, 2007, 04:01 PM   #30
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ok, that makes sense.

keep an eye on the caps every time you get out, if one starts to twist or back out fix it right there. it will save you a broken shaft.

i woud go with longfield 300m joints and alloy usa or superior shafts, depending on your budget.
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Old October 11th, 2007, 07:03 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by ajmorell View Post
I'm surprised no one has brought up HP vs LP. Makes no difference in shaft strength but the HP30 is stronger in forward gear than the LP is.
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Not many people break d30 gears, and when they do it's usually because of poor setup, or poor lubrication.
so, there really is no difference between the two?
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Old October 11th, 2007, 08:53 PM   #32
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sounds to me like you didnt break the gears in and/or they were setup wrong.
I put 500 miles or so on them following the break in steps, but not in 4wheel drive... this is kinda my guess for them failing. Opinion?

O and the rear 8.25 is looking great
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Old October 11th, 2007, 10:03 PM   #33
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so, there really is no difference between the two?
There is, techincally. But I'd agree, as 'weak' as they are, people don't seem to be busting lots of Dana 30 gears just on trail abuse.

I killed 4 sets of Dana 30 gears. 3 were 3.73 gears in my TJ, which could never keep the pinion preload, and ate a set of gears every 5000 miles, which were always replaced by the dealer under warranty. They'd loosen up, and chew themselves to pieces.

The 4th set was in my CJ-5, due to water in the diff, which froze in the winter. I snapped the carrier in 4 pieces, the gears themselves survived.

Otherwise, they help up with a V8 and 35" swampers without carnage.

35s would be my limit, though.

Funny how in, say, a TJ, Dana 30s seem to live pretty well with 35s, but then TJs on 37s seem to eat up Dana 44 shafts.
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Old October 11th, 2007, 10:07 PM   #34
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Funny how in, say, a TJ, Dana 30s seem to live pretty well with 35s, but then TJs on 37s seem to eat up Dana 44 shafts.
that would depend a lot on the driver and how heavy their foot is.
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Old October 12th, 2007, 08:12 AM   #35
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that would depend a lot on the driver and how heavy their foot is.
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Old October 12th, 2007, 08:42 AM   #36
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that would depend a lot on the driver and how heavy their foot is.
Or it could be that they use the same joint (I'm talking TJs in both applications).
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Old October 12th, 2007, 09:17 AM   #37
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Are the numbers the same with the front locked??
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Old October 12th, 2007, 09:32 AM   #38
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Are the numbers the same with the front locked??
that was my next question..
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Old October 12th, 2007, 09:36 AM   #39
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Funny how in, say, a TJ, Dana 30s seem to live pretty well with 35s, but then TJs on 37s seem to eat up Dana 44 shafts.
This reminds me of something else I've always wondered.. Why did manufacturers make some of their products over the years with different strength axles front and rear? Do they design the vehicle w/ a stronger rear axle becuase it takes more abuse? It kinda makes sense (?) .. under forward acceleration, weight transfer is to the rear.. you climb hills going forward = more abuse on the rear...
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Old October 12th, 2007, 10:00 AM   #40
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This reminds me of something else I've always wondered.. Why did manufacturers make some of their products over the years with different strength axles front and rear? Do they design the vehicle w/ a stronger rear axle becuase it takes more abuse? It kinda makes sense (?) .. under forward acceleration, weight transfer is to the rear.. you climb hills going forward = more abuse on the rear...
Because (and this is something everyone seems to forget about) the criteria that we design vehicles for is different than what poeple use them for, especialyl 4 wheeling, which, even in Jeeps, in NOT the primary use for most buyers.

Durability cycles generally force the rear axle to be bigger. Look at the heavy duty trucks. Durability cycles with today huge engine output forced the old GM 14 bolt FF to be beffed up.

Primariliy towing, payload, etc, the strain is on the rear axle. 99% of the time, most Jeeps are in 2wd.
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