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Old October 2nd, 2007, 12:52 PM   #21
clarkstoncracker
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Originally Posted by xj4life View Post
well i did have to winch myself out of that spot and actually that's where i lost the hub :tonka:
stay out of the mall, and you won't have issues like that
:tonka:
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 12:52 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by fukkinrizzo View Post
did you see the price on the D60 joints?

CC, how come you don't go to a D60?
baby steps
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 12:53 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by fukkinrizzo View Post
did you see the price on the D60 joints?

CC, how come you don't go to a D60?
Because I'm not somebody who has to prove that I can climb something that I can't.

The only time I see people breaking dana 44's, is when their matting the gas bouncing like a retard
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 12:56 PM   #24
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I don't see any part on my axle that looks like that. What do you need those for?
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 12:59 PM   #25
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I don't see any part on my axle that looks like that. What do you need those for?
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 01:02 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
Because I'm not somebody who has to prove that I can climb something that I can't.

The only time I see people breaking dana 44's, is when their matting the gas bouncing like a retard

didn't you break yours already........retard?



Last edited by fukkinrizzo; October 2nd, 2007 at 01:14 PM. Reason: so nobody thinks I am being serious
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 01:17 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by KartRacer View Post
I don't see any part on my axle that looks like that. What do you need those for?
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 01:20 PM   #28
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Because I'm not somebody who has to prove that I can climb something that I can't.

The only time I see people breaking dana 44's, is when their matting the gas bouncing like a retard
Just goes to show CC dosen't hit the holes hard enough :tonka: :tonka:
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 01:32 PM   #29
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Just goes to show CC dosen't hit the holes hard enough :tonka: :tonka:
Maybe he's more used to being the hole?
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 01:39 PM   #30
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i don't break D44 ujoints, i break the shafts at the neck down, if i had chrome moly shafts i would be in on the deal. But i don't yet
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 01:39 PM   #31
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didn't you break yours already........retard?


Kinda, I snapped a u-joint. But it had rust 1/2 way through the thing, so it was damaged from my big beefy 2.5 liter I used to run.

Snapped it the first day with the sbc
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 01:51 PM   #32
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so is a D44 with CM shafts as strong (or close) to a D60?

what is the weight difference?
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 02:00 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
My theory, is if a ujoint goes out, it can take out the axle shaft, and locker. Thats over a $1000.00.

I also run the lockouts, but I'm not really sure whats stronger, the lockout or the spicer ujoints.
The spicer. I used to break lockouts mud bogging. Now I use Solid splined hub w/no lockout. It eliminates another weaklink, but it seems to sen it to the joint or spiders/diff whichever is worse state of decay. My application is more race oriented, I can see for trail riding/off road chalenges where it might be more advantageous to have a lockout be the weak link. The last time I had trail rig ( CJ-7 401, 36 swampers t18 44's w/lockers) I broke a couple u-joints and a ring and pinion. I had the solid hubs, wish I would have broke a lockout though.
Thanks for the info on the duker u-joints.
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 02:00 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by fukkinrizzo View Post
so is a D44 with CM shafts as strong (or close) to a D60?

what is the weight difference?
I think its stronger then a stock dana 60.

You can however make a dana 60 much stronger with aftermarket parts.

Someone like spro can probably fill you in.

A dana 44 is much less weight.

If you compare a dana 44 axle shaft to a stock 60, you will find their almost the same
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 02:01 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by fukkinrizzo View Post
so is a D44 with CM shafts as strong (or close) to a D60?

what is the weight difference?
I don't think the overall shaft/joint setup equals a 35 spline OEM D60 in strength.

Definately, the ball joints, hubs, and ring/pinion aren't up to that strength.

Depends on the housing you are using, but around 200 lbs lighter for a Dana 44 over a 60.

I know it is possible for a 1.31" shaft to be stronger than a Dana 60 stock 35 spline shaft assembly, but I think there isn't enough meat on the ears/joints to get up there in strength.

You could also have the ring and pinion, and the hub internals heat/cryo treated to strengthen them up a good bit.

Toyota fronts are similar to Dana 44s, both using 1.31" 30 spline shafts. The aftermarket toy stuff is slightly stronger than dana 60 stockers. But there's no U-joint/ears to deform and pop out their clips.


Once you beef the shafts and joints, you'll start finding all the other weak points.
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 02:02 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Mikey1258 View Post
The spicer. I used to break lockouts mud bogging. Now I use Solid splined hub w/no lockout. It eliminates another weaklink, but it seems to sen it to the joint or spiders/diff whichever is worse state of decay. My application is more race oriented, I can see for trail riding/off road chalenges where it might be more advantageous to have a lockout be the weak link. The last time I had trail rig ( CJ-7 401, 36 swampers t18 44's w/lockers) I broke a couple u-joints and a ring and pinion. I had the solid hubs, wish I would have broke a lockout though.
Thanks for the info on the duker u-joints.
Mikey
Well, when I'm on the trail, I'd rather force the weak link to the outside, or make the wink link the least costly and timely to replace.

You can swap out a lockout in 20 minutes (haggar can prolly do it in 5).

I've snapped lockouts before, but only 1 axle shaft.

I'd rather invest 370 bucks to keep my expensive internals safe.
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 02:12 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
Well, when I'm on the trail, I'd rather force the weak link to the outside, or make the wink link the least costly and timely to replace.
I was just thinking that. a lot easier to change.


I'm gonna make a buggy and I am trying to get everything right the first time. I already have a D60/14FF/NP205/TH400/SBC. I want a tube frame to be light. I think the lighter the better.
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 02:14 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
Well, when I'm on the trail, I'd rather force the weak link to the outside, or make the wink link the least costly and timely to replace.

You can swap out a lockout in 20 minutes (haggar can prolly do it in 5).

I've snapped lockouts before, but only 1 axle shaft.

I'd rather invest 370 bucks to keep my expensive internals safe.
I'm with you on that!
I can swap a diff in under an hour, but i'm not sure if i'm proud of that or not. I see some of the wheeling that u guys do as opposed to my 3-20 seconds of mud flinging. I would have to adjust my rig and technique, or thats how long I would last climbing and crawling. I saw cheapthrillsb2 break 2 lockouts in a matter of minutes. I am not sure I would have made it that far without doing something far more devastating, luckily I only was driving my beater plow jeep.
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 02:33 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
Well, when I'm on the trail, I'd rather force the weak link to the outside, or make the wink link the least costly and timely to replace.

You can swap out a lockout in 20 minutes (haggar can prolly do it in 5).

I've snapped lockouts before, but only 1 axle shaft.

I'd rather invest 370 bucks to keep my expensive internals safe.
On mine, its 5 minutes in the garage, but a few extra minutes on the trail. Thats mainly because I have cone washers on all 6 studs holding the hub body to the wheel hub. They can be a bitch to remove sometimes without an air-chisel.

Gotta watch, blowing a lockup can bogger the splines on the stud shaft, which then junks that nice set of shafts.
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 02:33 PM   #40
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I see some of the wheeling that u guys do as opposed to my 3-20 seconds of mud flinging.
x2

The last time I blew up my drivetrain, I climbed this monster rock. Heres a pic from a 1/4 mile away


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