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Old January 8th, 2008, 12:08 PM   #1
Lothos
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need a clutch recommendation

my 5th clutch has finally given out in my 98 f150. the first 4 were motorcraft and didn't last more than 7k miles before the pads wore out. The current one is a centerforce and appears to have failed in the springs as the pedal goes to the floor before I get anything. No slippage though.

It's a 4.6l v8 witht he mazda 5 speed tranny 9 inch clutch.
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Old January 8th, 2008, 12:10 PM   #2
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Do you know how to drive a stick?
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Old January 8th, 2008, 12:12 PM   #3
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don't drive with your foot resting on the clutch pedal this causes hot spots ....or when you change the clutch have the flywheel turned or re-surfaced
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Old January 8th, 2008, 12:20 PM   #4
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time for a chevy... mine has 190,000 miles and its on its second clutch, the first replace was just because the slave sylinder went out so we just replaced it anyway
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Old January 8th, 2008, 12:21 PM   #5
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yes I know how to drive a stick and no I don't drive with my foot resting on it. It's a known issue of wearing fast. The same year engine in the mustang was mated to an 11 inch clutch but the F150 lacked the space for the same bellhousing and thus received a smaller clutch. On top of it weighing alot more with the cap and lift kit on.
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Old January 8th, 2008, 12:40 PM   #6
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ive always had good luck with Luk HD clutches.
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Old January 8th, 2008, 09:02 PM   #7
04 EDGE
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personal favorite

www.clutchmasters.com
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Old January 8th, 2008, 09:08 PM   #8
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LUK, SPEC or South Bend.

Those are the only clutches I would ever buy. And yes, with clutch material, you get what you pay for.
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Old January 8th, 2008, 09:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE View Post
personal favorite

www.clutchmasters.com
No listing for F150 1998 4.6l V8
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Old January 8th, 2008, 09:29 PM   #10
04 EDGE
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wow really? call them

heres another good custom clutch company

http://www.southbendclutch.com/dynamax.html

they dont have one listed but it says they have more you just have to contact them
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Old January 8th, 2008, 09:37 PM   #11
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nope, nothing there either although i did find a Luk oem replacement for $254 at carolina clutch. I'll do some more searching in the morning.
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Old January 9th, 2008, 06:28 PM   #12
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Ok, before I go further into purchasing. Perhaps I have something else wrong. I get no funny noises in neutral, starting to press clutch, and clutch fully depressed. I get no slipping when engaged either. The only difficulty is the clutch pedals goes almost to the floor before disengaging the clutch. Friction zone is about 1 inch of pedal travel now when it used to be a good 3-5 inches and closer to the top of the pedal travel. My mechanic buddy that had been using the truck for a few months sucked out the old fluid and put new fluid in but didn't bleed the system, so I may look at doing that first perhaps. Figured I'd hunt for other ideas though in the mean time.
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Old January 10th, 2008, 12:22 PM   #13
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???
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Old January 10th, 2008, 12:47 PM   #14
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yea, defn inspect the slave cylinder before you spend $$ on a clutch.

have someone in the truck push the clutch in (doesn't even have to be running). As soon as they push the pedal, The slave piston should start to push the clutch fork, this should be easy to spot. Then remove the inspection cover. You should be able to verify that the clutch fork engages the pressure plate within the first 1/5 travel of pushing the clutch in. From there, you should be able to see how far the pressure plate has to travel to release the clutch.

If the clutch fork engages the pressure plate late, obviously it isn't a clutch problem.
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Old January 10th, 2008, 03:11 PM   #15
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I think this has an integrated throw out bearing/slave cylinder, inside the bell housing.
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Old January 10th, 2008, 03:21 PM   #16
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from the Haynes:

The release cylinder and release bearing are integral parts of a single assembly installed concentric to the input shaft and is bolted to the front of the transmission.
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Old January 10th, 2008, 03:22 PM   #17
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you should still be able to see the throw-out bearing race relationship to the pressure plate with the inspection cover removed, or with the starter removed and a mirror

have you had the flywheel machined every time? If so, you might be running out of material on the flywheel (forcing the throwout bearing to travel too far to disengage). How burnt are the clutch pads when you replace them? or how blued is the flywheel?
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Last edited by Bones; January 10th, 2008 at 03:26 PM.
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Old January 10th, 2008, 03:26 PM   #18
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I think I'm going to do a bleed first. I'm just a bit puzzled by the wording on the clutch pedal travel. The spec says 6-7 inches and I'm supposed to measure that after bleeding. But, what am I measuring? Distance till it starts to disengage the tranny from the the engine?
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Old January 10th, 2008, 04:24 PM   #19
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well, I'm pretty sure at the moment an air bubble was/is my problem. I haven't been able to get the bleeder open and I have bowling, but I did get to pumping the pedal and burping it out. I have a brick on the pedal now and i'll let it sit overnight and see how it is tomorrow after work. I was getting some grinding trying to shift into reverse from first which I guess is "wind down" usually indicative of a bad throwout bearing.
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Old January 10th, 2008, 07:24 PM   #20
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its a "self bleeding" system

all you have to do is gravity bleed it for a few minutes, do not let the fluid run dry, then close the bleeder and simply pump the pedal 40-50 times with the cap off.
sounds like the slave has gone south.
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