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Old September 21st, 2007, 03:37 AM   #1
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Default spider trax 9 inchs

anybody on here build one up b4? i was just lookin around and seen u can get a housing for 399.
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Old September 23rd, 2007, 06:18 PM   #2
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front or rear?
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Old September 23rd, 2007, 07:28 PM   #3
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front or rear?
That price is for an uncut 0.250" wall center section. a bit more for .375" wall tubes. Then you need to cut it, add ends for rears or knuckles for fronts.

Its never cheap, but I think this is the way to go, myself. You can build the housing to just the size you want, low weight. (In my truck, I have a 62" WMS diamond, with 3.25" x 0.375" tubes, and I can pick up the housing with one hand), great ground clearance, and housing strength.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 12:00 AM   #4
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yes, i know ive looked into quite a bit building a 609 for my front end. still debating weather its worth doing or not.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 10:22 AM   #5
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yes, i know ive looked into quite a bit building a 609 for my front end. still debating weather its worth doing or not.
They look purty, too:

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Old September 24th, 2007, 11:54 AM   #6
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id be building a front. what inners and outs did u use? i have some stock 60 parts that id probley use.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 12:14 PM   #7
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id be building a front. what inners and outs did u use? i have some stock 60 parts that id probley use.
you want to use dana 60' C's and knuckles and shafts. you get a 35 spline locker/spool for the 9" and the shafts will slide into that.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 12:24 PM   #8
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My front is a toyota/diamond housing.

But yeah, building a 609, either doing with some fabricated knuckles, or maybe the ford super duty unit-bearing knuckles, would be my direction, both are lightweight.

My front is a toy 3rd member, 30-spline longs, marlin hi-steer arms, ARP knuckle studs, ARP hub studs, longfield 4340 hub gears, land cruiser/4 runner brakes, and a diamond housing 62" WMS-WMS. Last step will be to go with a cryo'd R&P with an E-locker.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 12:40 PM   #9
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My front is a toyota/diamond housing.

But yeah, building a 609, either doing with some fabricated knuckles, or maybe the ford super duty unit-bearing knuckles, would be my direction, both are lightweight.

My front is a toy 3rd member, 30-spline longs, marlin hi-steer arms, ARP knuckle studs, ARP hub studs, longfield 4340 hub gears, land cruiser/4 runner brakes, and a diamond housing 62" WMS-WMS. Last step will be to go with a cryo'd R&P with an E-locker.

do you know if I used a older knuckle if the unit bearing would bolt up still? and will the orginal stub shaft from lets say a 70's dana 60 work? or would I have to get newer stub shafts to work with the unit bearings?


unit bearing style are a metric bolt pattern i believe but i would change it to 5x5.5 anyways.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 07:41 PM   #10
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keep the good info coming guys!
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Old September 24th, 2007, 08:28 PM   #11
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if you build a spider 9 the housing is not even 1/10th of the final cost, there is nothing cheap about custom axles. if you have 10k+ to drop on them then start buying parts.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 08:30 PM   #12
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im gonna build it slowly over time no rush
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Old September 24th, 2007, 08:34 PM   #13
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im gonna build it slowly over a decade
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Old September 24th, 2007, 08:37 PM   #14
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have one sitting in the garage
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one of Michigans 99% er club.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 08:46 PM   #15
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if you build a spider 9 the housing is not even 1/10th of the final cost, there is nothing cheap about custom axles. if you have 10k+ to drop on them then start buying parts.
if you use all brand new stuff.

I had mine priced out keep full width and running stock narrowed dana 60 shafts, dana 60 c's and knuckles, spidertrax housing, gears, master install, detroit locker, lockouts.

it was going to be around 2g's.


building one from ground up w/brand new stuff is completely different though
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Old September 24th, 2007, 08:48 PM   #16
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if you use all brand new stuff.
This and your user title paints a wonderful picture of you :tonka:
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Old September 24th, 2007, 09:23 PM   #17
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This and your user title paints a wonderful picture of you :tonka:



nothing wrong with using used C's and knuckles, and shafts when you are only going to run 37"s on it.

and I wouldnt get that theory to much
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Old September 24th, 2007, 09:27 PM   #18
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Only problem is to run 35 spline shafts and not a spool you are looking at a after market 3rd, which adds some $$$

Using new stuff it is about 20% more than doing a 60, when I priced them out.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 10:11 PM   #19
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Only problem is to run 35 spline shafts and not a spool you are looking at a after market 3rd, which adds some $$$

Using new stuff it is about 20% more than doing a 60, when I priced them out.
i was gonna get a smoking deal on d60 shafts, and outters/c's. should of mentioned that.


you need a new third memeber for a 35 spline detroit? i was not aware of that and havent really heard anything about that before.
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Old September 24th, 2007, 10:24 PM   #20
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Yes you need a 3.25" bearing for anything 35 spline and larger.

I did find one or two companies that make a 35 spline spool for the large bearing stock 3rd.
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