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Old September 13th, 2007, 06:26 PM   #1
Stone
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Follow up ? to "Warn Hub Conversion For Dana 30's"

I'm looking for a cheap way to get free-wheeling hubs on my Heep. I may have access to a free CJ Dana 30 do these have the same tube diameter as the yj dana 30's? The reason I ask is I'm thinking I could re-tube or sleeve my YJ hp 30 using the CJ inner knuckles. I could run stock (yj/xj)axle shafts with the 260 u-joints and use the cj knuckles and hubs. Also, while doing this I could adjust pinion and caster angles. This way all of the parts are factory except the housing and would be relatively easy to replace for cheap.

This is just a thought and I'm looking for opinions? Does this sound like to much of a cobble job?

Last edited by Stone; September 13th, 2007 at 06:31 PM.
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Old September 13th, 2007, 09:52 PM   #2
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from what i have heard, the cj inner C is shorter (from the ball joints to the axle tube end) than the wrangler C. this may cause problems with inner shaft lengths so you will probably need shorter shafts. but otherwise, your plan should work. just seems like a lot of work to keep a disco d30 under your jeep.

if it where my choice, i would just swap in a waggy d44.
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Old September 14th, 2007, 12:22 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGBEN View Post
from what i have heard, the cj inner C is shorter (from the ball joints to the axle tube end) than the wrangler C. this may cause problems with inner shaft lengths so you will probably need shorter shafts. but otherwise, your plan should work. just seems like a lot of work to keep a disco d30 under your jeep.

if it where my choice, i would just swap in a waggy d44.
That's what I'm looking at as well. The main thing I want is to be able to lock the front diff and be able to unlock the hubs for onroad. I have access to the cj 30 for free, so, the only thing I would be out is the cost for the tube, welding rod, and time. In the long run though I might as well build a 44 it will do what I want it to and be stronger. This was just something I was thinking about. I might try it anyway just to see if it works. I have insurance on it through the end of the month so I still drive it. Once it runs out it will go into storage for the winter and I will be able to start on swaping a 44.
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Old September 14th, 2007, 01:06 AM   #4
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This may help you.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...HybridAxle.htm

Cutting the inners down is the biggest issue, because I don't think you can with the design of OEM d30 shafts. You would need Alloy shafts as CJ shafts are not the correct length either.

The only reason I would think of doing this is if you already had gears and a locker, and time and patience to spare. Even with a free CJ D30 housing, your probably not going to save any money over a 44 swap in the end.
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Last edited by Monkeyevil; September 14th, 2007 at 01:11 AM.
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Old September 14th, 2007, 06:03 AM   #5
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I put the cj 30 yokes on my HPdana 30, then had 10 bolt shafts cut down, and used 10 bolt/44 knuckles and so on. But exactly like Monkeyevil says, there has to be a perfect senario to be worthwhile. I think with gears and all I had $500 into mine.
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Old September 14th, 2007, 06:28 AM   #6
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Why do you feel you need locking hubs to run a locker in the front?

I have run a locker in the front of my TJ for years without lockouts.
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Old September 28th, 2007, 08:57 PM   #7
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detroit ez locker or lock rite or aussie. you wont even know its there till you pput in 4wd. then its locked up tight. and cheap too. ive run a detroit ez locker for about 4 years or so. with 33's, 35's and 36's no issues yet.
good luck
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Old September 28th, 2007, 09:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
Why do you feel you need locking hubs to run a locker in the front?

I have run a locker in the front of my TJ for years without lockouts.
Biggest thing is if he's locked at both ends and flat tows. It won't turn. Unlocking the hubs is easier than pulling the driveshaft.
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Old September 28th, 2007, 11:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddyPaws View Post
Biggest thing is if he's locked at both ends and flat tows. It won't turn. Unlocking the hubs is easier than pulling the driveshaft.
TJ 231's have a true neutral case, unlike YJ's that lock the front and rear together in neutral. I wonder if the the TJ mode fork swapped into the YJ case would give true neutral?
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Old September 29th, 2007, 12:07 AM   #10
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The YJ went to a true nuetral in '93 or '94- I think you need the mode fork and the sector, IIRC.
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Old September 29th, 2007, 01:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
The YJ went to a true nuetral in '93 or '94- I think you need the mode fork and the sector, IIRC.
My 93 does not. Must have been 04.
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Old September 29th, 2007, 08:51 AM   #12
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JB conversions has a true neutral kit for the 231's. I put one in mine when I did the sye kit.
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