Waggy dana 44 dis/assembly axle shaft/gears breakdown steps, with photos. - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

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Old September 3rd, 2007, 01:09 PM   #1
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Default Waggy dana 44 dis/assembly axle shaft/gears breakdown steps, with photos.

Note: 1988 Waggy dana 44. These are 10 bolt outters, hence the 8 lug pattern.

Tools needed:

Dana 44 Hub socket.4 prongs.
9/64 Allen wrench
9/16 socket
Caliper bolt socket; 3/8ths Allen
Snap ring pliers
Rubber mallet


Jackstands!


Lockout outter taken off


Outter snap ring


Inner snap ring


Use a couple lockout bolts to remove the free floating lockout


TAKE OFF YOUR CALIPERS NOW!

Remove axle nut, then spacer, then other axle nut.


Hub should fall off. If not, rubber mallet on the caliper to loosen it up.


Take the 6 bolts off the backing plate.


Some good taps on the axle shaft will loosen the backing plate, then it should slide over the shaft.

Before removing the backing plate, pull off the bearing and axle seal. (its orange in this photo)


Axle shaft should pull out now.




REPEAT ON THE DRIVER SIDE.

Drain your dif, and you're ready to pull out the gears!
I run lucas oil, thats not anti-freeze :)


Make sure you mark the races on both sides, and mark which ways up! Put them back in how you took them out.


If you don't have lockouts, heres your setup:

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Old September 3rd, 2007, 01:50 PM   #2
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oof so much rtv :) .. wire whisk the cover/diff
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Old September 3rd, 2007, 02:29 PM   #3
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oof so much rtv :) .. wire whisk the cover/diff
That is far less than what the factory uses....
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Old September 3rd, 2007, 02:35 PM   #4
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That is far less than what the factory uses....
hahaha

I had a ton of rtv on there, because I was so excited to buy the new bluRTV in the pressurized can, that I kept going, and going, and going.

:tonka:
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Old March 2nd, 2008, 02:09 PM   #5
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Timken part #'s

Inner Race: JLM104910
Inner Bearing: LM104949
Inner Seal: 471271
Outer bearing and race: set45
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Old March 2nd, 2008, 06:20 PM   #6
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I searched for this a ton before I found it. NONE of the auto part suppliers had the right listing when I was looking for a "Waggy inner axle seal" they all had other numbers. it would be good to have it in this thread.

Inner Axle seal Part number: Spicer = 620257
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Old August 24th, 2010, 05:03 PM   #7
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I can not remove the free floating lockout. I removed the outer ring and the center ring. It will not move. I can move the shaft itself in and out a bit but the lock out will not move. Whats the trick?
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Old August 25th, 2010, 09:20 PM   #8
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I can not remove the free floating lockout. I removed the outer ring and the center ring. It will not move. I can move the shaft itself in and out a bit but the lock out will not move. Whats the trick?
You have the big outer wire ring out? and the snap ring off? If you do then that's all there is to do. Is you fuse broke and binding things up?
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Old August 29th, 2010, 09:43 AM   #9
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If it really comes down to it, you can barely get to the spindle nuts with the rotor still on. Remove the spindle nuts, pull like hell on the rotor and eventually comething will let loose. Then you can work with it on the bench and also get at the back side to push it through if it's really siezed up.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 12:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbon View Post
I can not remove the free floating lockout. I removed the outer ring and the center ring. It will not move. I can move the shaft itself in and out a bit but the lock out will not move. Whats the trick?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodapop View Post
You have the big outer wire ring out? and the snap ring off? If you do then that's all there is to do. Is you fuse broke and binding things up?
It sounds like he may have removed the wire and snap rings. Just guessing here.

Carbon, you need to be a bit more specific. Are both rings removed? Next, take a couple of the long bolts that held the lockout in place and screw them into the inner lockout splined ring. Put them 180* across from each other. This is what's shown in the 4th pic above.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 08:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
It sounds like he may have removed the wire and snap rings. Just guessing here.

Carbon, you need to be a bit more specific. Are both rings removed? Next, take a couple of the long bolts that held the lockout in place and screw them into the inner lockout splined ring. Put them 180* across from each other. This is what's shown in the 4th pic above.
That's what I read too, but I've never had one seized in there and sometimes if it's been awhile, that ring kinda blends in, which is why I asked.

95geo - How's he going to get to that spindle nut if the lockout is in there. I can't picture any way that is possible. The lockout completely fills in the hub.


Carbon, does the lockout wiggle at all? If the snap and wire rings are out and it doesn't wiggle, my next course of action would be to use a metal hammer and hit around the hub above the area where the lockout is and try to knock any rust loose. If that didn't work, I use a punch and hit the lockout itself (with some restraint of course). If that didn't work, I'd move to heat. If it does wiggle, then you're must be missing something.
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 01:59 PM   #12
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95geo - How's he going to get to that spindle nut if the lockout is in there. I can't picture any way that is possible. The lockout completely fills in the hub.
He wouldnt be removing the spindle nut, just the bolts that hold the spindle to the knuckle so he can remove it and also get some access from the stub shaft not being in there. I had to do it that way once because I locked up a spindle bearing and distorted the spindle so much that everything was locked up. Getting it off the vehicle made enough of a difference to get it disassembled.
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 01:31 AM   #13
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Got it, I read spindle nut, rather than spindle nuts.... Makes total sense now. Good outside the box thinking!
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