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Old September 3rd, 2007, 12:13 PM   #1
mudd_jumper
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Default Dana 44 break down help new questions 9-04-07

Ok so I am finally starting to tear down my 44 out of a 80's waggy. Does any one have a break down diagram of it? And also I am trying to separate the spindle housing from the steering knuckle and can not get it to break free. I have tried heat break free tapping prying and all I can get is I have like a 1/16 gap. Any tricks I need to know here or just keep at it?

Last edited by mudd_jumper; September 5th, 2007 at 02:31 PM. Reason: becuase I am not smart like scooter
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Old September 3rd, 2007, 12:57 PM   #2
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heat, BFH
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Old September 3rd, 2007, 03:12 PM   #3
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i just had to keep tapping and prying on it to remove them. just don't damage the spindle in the process.
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Old September 3rd, 2007, 03:46 PM   #4
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Tap the spindle with a rubber mallet. Once you get a gap on one side, put a pry bar in the gap. Tap (don't beat the bejesus out of it) on the opposite side of it. Keep working it back & forth. It will come out.
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Old September 3rd, 2007, 08:22 PM   #5
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ok I got it out worked at it got out the oxy and a tap tap tap and that did it. Now I am working on getting out the dang uppers and lowers out 27 year old piece of ****.
Thanks for the help all now to figure out what manual hubs to run.
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Old September 3rd, 2007, 09:12 PM   #6
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I thread the nut back on the end of the spindle and tap the nut around on all sides.
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Old September 3rd, 2007, 10:54 PM   #7
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Personally I wouldn't buy any aftermarket manual hubs...just use some stockers from a junkyard or something
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Old September 4th, 2007, 12:02 AM   #8
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Here's some exploded diagrams





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Old September 4th, 2007, 12:05 AM   #9
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I'm running Mile Marker Supreme Stainless Hubs. Got them on ebay for about $50 shipped. They've held up to 3 trips so far with some pretty aggressive driving surviving a broken front driveshaft and also a busted from mainleaf.
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Old September 4th, 2007, 06:31 AM   #10
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I use warn premium hubs, many axle failures (including chromoly) and the hubs still move like new.
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Old September 4th, 2007, 07:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
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I use warn premium hubs, many axle failures (including chromoly) and the hubs still move like new.
x2 Never had a problem.

I keep hearing that people blow up lockouts but it's never happened to me.
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Old September 4th, 2007, 07:54 AM   #12
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I have blown many of the standard Warn lockouts, all but one due to not being fully engaged before the power was applied.
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Old September 4th, 2007, 07:49 PM   #13
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Thanks for the diagram helped and will help out allot. Now just to find the manual hubs to run which one. Warns seem to to be the best unless you let bronco-4play use them :tonka:
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Old September 4th, 2007, 08:27 PM   #14
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ok all broke down what can I use to clean the tubes out? I was thinking of taking my wifes toilet brush think she will notice
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Old September 4th, 2007, 08:43 PM   #15
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make a scraper, about 3-3.5 feet of a stiff tube about 1" diameter with a 1/2 moon shape that is stiff welded on the end, make sure it is about 1/4" diameter smaller than the ID of the tube.
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Old September 4th, 2007, 09:21 PM   #16
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Heres my theory on lockouts, if you buy the strongest out there, you're going to break internals. I have my setup so the lockouts are the wink link. They take 10 minutes to swap out, I WANT them to break before something else.

I run the warn ones. .
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Old September 4th, 2007, 09:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
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ok all broke down what can I use to clean the tubes out? I was thinking of taking my wifes toilet brush think she will notice
slide a big piece of rigid pipe back and forth. When you get all the big chunks out, spray it with something (hose, brake clean, etc) and force rags through there.
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Old September 4th, 2007, 09:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
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slide a big piece of rigid pipe back and forth. When you get all the big chunks out, spray it with something (hose, brake clean, etc) and force rags through there.
This is what I did too, used a fence post and then after cleaning it I blew it out with Compressed air.


I also agree with the lock outs being the weak link. Much easier to change than a shaft or u-joint. I carry the waggy slugs in my spare box but alot of people carry the fusable links with them. I just haven't gotten around to buying them yet.

Having said all that, I don't really want a weak link in my drivetrain so I'm pretty sure the lockouts will hold up for most wheeling.
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Old September 5th, 2007, 05:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
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I have blown many of the standard Warn lockouts, all but one due to not being fully engaged before the power was applied.
That would do it.:tonka:

I also don't want a weak link. I carry drive slugs just in case tho.
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Old September 5th, 2007, 06:17 AM   #20
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mudd_jumper - Change the spelling of "Danna" to "Dana" in your subject line (original post). That way, people can find this thread when searching in the future.

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