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Old February 28th, 2006, 02:40 PM   #1
4x4inAllDay
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Default lookin to do a full Rebuild on my 5.9

who's done this.... what performance options have you gone with?

what would be the most cost effictive for .. bang for my buck with performace and power in mind....

ideas? thoughts... things to watch out for...

i've never pulled an engine with the intention of putting it back before? lol

done transmissions before.. so this will be a new expierance...
again.. thoughts and ideas on this?
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Old February 28th, 2006, 03:29 PM   #2
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Do you want any machining done, or are you going to just go with bolt-ons?

Pulling an engine with intentions of not FUBAR isn't that hard.
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Old February 28th, 2006, 04:00 PM   #3
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U hydrolocked yours correct ?? i'd say just get a stroker kit with all the pistons/rods/ crank/ new bearings, Rings.. Find a nice mild cam from edlebrock..
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Old February 28th, 2006, 04:08 PM   #4
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Stroker kits aren't cheap. He said he's looking for bang for the buck. :miff:
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Old February 28th, 2006, 04:09 PM   #5
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Mopar performance heads/alluminum heads
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Old February 28th, 2006, 04:42 PM   #6
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Take a look at www.krcperformance.com for some ideas... Marty knows his stuff, but isn't really well known for speedy delivery. I need to do the same thing. My stripped block is sitting on my workbench at the moment for the 5.9 ZJ.
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Old February 28th, 2006, 05:28 PM   #7
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A few people I know were really happy with just throwing a new cam, stall converter, intake and exhaust on there rigs which I plan on doing if I ever keep mine on the road long enough to do it. Parts are starting to get old on this thing. lol You can also do the small things like underdrive pullyes, throttle body spacer and a programer of some type. you could also do a shift kit for better shifts. Better injectors will add a few horses. From my experience its all the little upgrades for those with a limited buget that add up in the end. Although a supercharger would be nice wouldn't it.

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Old February 28th, 2006, 07:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey
Stroker kits aren't cheap. He said he's looking for bang for the buck. :miff:
Yes, he did. Notice he didn't say "cheap". They give a lot of bang.
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Old March 1st, 2006, 12:41 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey
Stroker kits aren't cheap. He said he's looking for bang for the buck. :miff:
This kit is more elaborate and it's $1575
http://www.hughesengines.com/crank_kits/408crankkit.asp

This one is $1350
http://store.yahoo.com/chucker54/exba1.html

Here is a internal balance for $1500
http://store.yahoo.com/chucker54/inba1.html

It's not like they are giving them away, but for a extra 50cid's
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Old March 1st, 2006, 03:18 PM   #10
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Here it goes.. Sell it and buy an older GMC !! ROFl
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Old March 1st, 2006, 03:31 PM   #11
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how much work would you like to do? do you want to get in to the machining?
if it was hydrolocked you maybe opening a can of worms.. may not.. and how much hp/ tq are you looking to get out of it?

ive done a couple small things that have helped alot. nothing like machining though. also, ive got the 5.2 so i can use the 5.9 parts to build mine.

im always for turbo's but thoes are pricey and tough to set up.

also i would look at the price of building it, stroking it would most likely be the best bang for the buck. but how much is a long block thats already built? might find a deal, might not..

i put a cam in my truck, and when i rebuilt my trany i did a little work so it would shift better. id like to get new injectors but they are to pricy.

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Old March 1st, 2006, 04:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h8pvmnt
This kit is more elaborate and it's $1575
http://www.hughesengines.com/crank_kits/408crankkit.asp

This one is $1350
http://store.yahoo.com/chucker54/exba1.html

Here is a internal balance for $1500
http://store.yahoo.com/chucker54/inba1.html

It's not like they are giving them away, but for a extra 50cid's
It doesn't say whether those are shipped to you balanced or not, which means you're going to have more $$$ tossed to a machine shop getting it balanced, along with the rods and pistons.
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Old March 1st, 2006, 08:22 PM   #13
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building a stroker motor like a 408 or 416 can be expensive the good thing about the 360 it has a long rod i think it is 6.125 in length that helps make good power (torque) if you check the specs on the mopar crate engine you could base your rebuild for power off that like what cam they use e.t.c they make 380 hp thats real good street and offroad horese power also my brother has a 99 ram quad cab 4x4 with the 5.9 he put a chip in it and a k&n filter set up on it and it ran 15.50 in the 1/4 mile at lapeer dragway not to bad
hope this helps you some
joe
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Old March 2nd, 2006, 12:40 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey
It doesn't say whether those are shipped to you balanced or not, which means you're going to have more $$$ tossed to a machine shop getting it balanced, along with the rods and pistons.
Crank assembly is dynamically, internal balanced
The finished assembly does not require balance weights on the torque converter or flexplate/flywheel
These kits are ready to drop-in
Crank is balanced for automatic transmission applications.


That is off of the first link. If you would have read it , you would have noticed that. Now go back and read them so I don't have to quote the others as well.:miff:
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Old March 2nd, 2006, 02:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h8pvmnt
Crank assembly is dynamically, internal balanced
The finished assembly does not require balance weights on the torque converter or flexplate/flywheel
These kits are ready to drop-in
Crank is balanced for automatic transmission applications.


That is off of the first link. If you would have read it , you would have noticed that. Now go back and read them so I don't have to quote the others as well.:miff:
Well pardon me for not clicking on all three. I only checked out the third. Regardless, I would still want to double check to make sure everything is balanced. A friend just got done rebuilding a small block Chevy in my performance machining class up here, dropped in a supposedly "balanced" stroker kit. It wasn't balanced...take a guess at what happened.
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Old March 2nd, 2006, 10:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey
Well pardon me for not clicking on all three. I only checked out the third. Regardless, I would still want to double check to make sure everything is balanced. A friend just got done rebuilding a small block Chevy in my performance machining class up here, dropped in a supposedly "balanced" stroker kit. It wasn't balanced...take a guess at what happened.
That is why it pays to go with a reputable shop. Hughes, the first link, specializes in Mopar and they are very knowledgable on truck applications. I have their throttle body on my Dakota and plan on getting a set of their roller rockers this year. Plus I like their disclaimers:
Please note, if you have purchased parts from Summit, PAW, Jegs, etc. and have questions or problems with them, call them, not us. They owe you the information, they took your money, not us. We will be happy to help you with parts you purchased from us. We realize that they cannot help you, but you made the decision to buy from them, so you must live with the problems.
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Old March 2nd, 2006, 02:11 PM   #17
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ready and FIGHT!!! luke i thinck yad be happy with a with a simple cam, higher stallconverter and maby heads. you drive your truck to much daily to kill the mpg with a Stroker...although it would be fun!!!


have you taking your valve covers off to cheack the push rods yet? if not i smell a project for the weekend
we need to wash the engein bay first
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Old March 2nd, 2006, 03:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman86
ready and FIGHT!!! luke i thinck yad be happy with a with a simple cam, higher stallconverter and maby heads. you drive your truck to much daily to kill the mpg with a Stroker...although it would be fun!!!


have you taking your valve covers off to cheack the push rods yet? if not i smell a project for the weekend
we need to wash the engein bay first
We discovered pieces of metal in the oil on wednesday night.... and there is a strong possiblity that sludge has clogged up the pick up causing the no oil pressure problem..
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Old March 2nd, 2006, 07:36 PM   #19
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ouch, that sucks, any idea on where the metal came from?
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Old March 2nd, 2006, 10:04 PM   #20
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ouch, that sucks, any idea on where the metal came from?

No idea but it filled the shop with oil smoke when we started it... guessing the rings are fried

Possibly cam bearings
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