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Old August 9th, 2007, 01:45 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
unless you make your turns in FWD,
that is exactly what you do
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Old August 10th, 2007, 01:07 AM   #42
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I've got an Aussie locker in the front of mine. So it's the same deal, it will ratchet when there is no torque applied to the axle. On tight turns I will take the front axle out of gear and it makes a serious difference in the turning radius.

Cracker your welded front had a few issues. The first and maybe biggest is that your running Boggers. And they have almost no lateral traction. That means it's much easier for them to slide sideways.

Second is you were unlocking a hub to help turn. This sucks because now that you have no differentiation in that front axle, the side with the hub unlocks just drags, and the locked side pushes the Jeep to that side. Works just about as bad as leaving the hubs locked, and you had to get out of your vehicle to do it.

Third, the welded front puts a TON of stress on your front axle when your trying to turn in any high traction surface. That coupled with some HP, and big tires will eventually make something blow up. On a 60, maybe not... on your 44 I think it would have happened eventually.

So what is the benefit of a selectable front locker for you? A super tight turning radius even with the front axle engaged, and the ability to just leave the damn thing unlocked when you don't need it. Save the stress on your front axle, make Michigan trails a little more fun, and stop the dig the hole to China syndrome in the sand.

Oh yeah... and they are cool.
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Old August 10th, 2007, 07:49 AM   #43
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But are they $300 cooler than a Detroit?
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Old August 10th, 2007, 08:14 AM   #44
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Factory Toyota e-locker is where it's at.
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Old August 10th, 2007, 08:59 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Monkeyevil View Post

Third, the welded front puts a TON of stress on your front axle when your trying to turn in any high traction surface. That coupled with some HP, and big tires will eventually make something blow up. On a 60, maybe not... on your 44 I think it would have happened eventually.
I've heard this a lot from a lot of people and I don't buy it. I ran welded for years and broke a shaft occasionally. But it was a D25 on 38's. Yes mostly mud back then.

But.............. my ARB locks up solid. It is a D44, alloy shafts & joints. I run it hard with lots of HP and have never had a problem.

So, tell me, what is the difference between an ARB and welded? I am not talking about carrier strength but shaft/joint strength.

And yes, on my next upgrade it will be a Detroit. One reason only......... I don't want to rely on a compressor and hoses/ o-rings.
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Old August 10th, 2007, 09:33 AM   #46
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Quote:
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I've heard this a lot from a lot of people and I don't buy it.
But.............. my ARB locks up solid. It is a D44, alloy shafts & joints. I run it hard with lots of HP and have never had a problem.
exceptions prove the rules

each case is different, if there isnt enough weight bias to make the front tires dig around a corner and they slide then you dont really have the problem.

basically what im saying is watch different setups that are locked up on the trail and you will see the charicteristics and how little things like ackerman angles and corner weights can affect things.

these statements arent directed towards you jim but just in general for everyone

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Old August 10th, 2007, 09:59 AM   #47
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I still don't see what the downside of running an e-locker is? For $300.00, I'd rather have a little better turning myself.

But thats just me I guess.
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Old August 10th, 2007, 10:24 AM   #48
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Some good reading link


Except it is west coast stuff, but seems logical
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Old August 10th, 2007, 11:29 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
I've heard this a lot from a lot of people and I don't buy it. I ran welded for years and broke a shaft occasionally. But it was a D25 on 38's. Yes mostly mud back then.

But.............. my ARB locks up solid. It is a D44, alloy shafts & joints. I run it hard with lots of HP and have never had a problem.

So, tell me, what is the difference between an ARB and welded? I am not talking about carrier strength but shaft/joint strength.

And yes, on my next upgrade it will be a Detroit. One reason only......... I don't want to rely on a compressor and hoses/ o-rings.
Do you leave your ARB in during full locked turns on sticky rocks? Not denying it was probably fine for you. I ran a welded d35 on a few trips as well with no problems... that doesn't mean I recommend it.
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Old August 10th, 2007, 11:36 AM   #50
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But are they $300 cooler than a Detroit?
Guess like everything it depends on your wallet.
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Old August 10th, 2007, 11:46 AM   #51
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Guess like everything it depends on your wallet.
using that theory, you must be loaded to get your fiance'

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Old August 10th, 2007, 10:43 PM   #52
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You might like to read this thread, its been a recent topic at pirate:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604167

Myself, I'm going to pull the 3rd member out of the rear axle sometime and replace with a OEM toyota E-locker. My current rear diff is welded, which I'll keep as a trail spare. That plug maybe cutting brakes, since with a welded rear, 108" wb, and the lower turning radius of a closed knuckle front, its tough for me to make tight turns.

I definately see an improvement when I shift the rear case to 2wd in turning. I know, though, that in 2wd that spool makes the truck want to push straight ahead.
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Old August 11th, 2007, 06:20 AM   #53
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Bryce, I hear you. I'm just saying I have never had a problem since I went to high quality shafts & joints.

Monkeyevil, depends on the situation. Sure, I unlock the ARB when I need to turn sharp **and** I have enough traction with an open front. But there are many times that I have left it in when I figured I was going to lift a tire or need both tires. It has never been a consideration to turn it off because of being worried about breaking.

I absolutely agree that it puts more bind on things and is a higher risk of breakage. But, with a 37" tire (well, 35.5 LOL) on a D44, I would never be worried about welding or full lockup with good shafts.

Haggar, hmmmmm interesting read I never considered. I had an ARB in the rear and took it out. I had 2 different trail problems with it and decided to get more trouble free when I went to the spool. The first time I started blowing oil out my dif breather tube. It turned out there was a little bug, (the 8 legged kind) that had gotten into the internal relief valve in the dif. It had stuck the spool open and was venting all my pressure into the dif. I have since heard that they have eliminated that valve. (don't know)
Second time I was in Kentucky and landed on a rock breaking the 9" third member. Found a new one at the junk yard but no one had the proper drill and tap for the NPT bulkhead fitting. So I ran the rest of the weekend with an open dif.

I still have my rear ARB but it has a buggered shaft spline on one side. hmmmmmm
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Old August 11th, 2007, 06:54 AM   #54
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I'm also looking for a factory toyota e-locker so I can run a cutting brake setup in the rear to help turning radius.
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Old August 11th, 2007, 08:36 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
You might like to read this thread, its been a recent topic at pirate:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604167
Repost :tonka:
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Old August 11th, 2007, 10:45 AM   #56
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Quote:
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Repost :tonka:
so what? I don't frequent Pirate and Hagger was just trying to bring me up to speed on this topic. Quite frankly I appreciate him posting the link.
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Old August 11th, 2007, 10:56 AM   #57
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Quote:
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so what? I don't frequent Pirate and Hagger was just trying to bring me up to speed on this topic. Quite frankly I appreciate him posting the link.
I posted the same link further up :miff:
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Old August 11th, 2007, 11:05 AM   #58
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We try not to read things you post :tonka:

(sorry about the )
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Old August 11th, 2007, 11:50 AM   #59
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Well, I just picked up my e-locker, and one of the little ears is snapped off. It fell out of the carrier holder in the box and I'm sure the Fedex guy tossed it around a little bit. The ear is still there, and it looks like it was just tack welded. Wonder what the purpose of the ears are.
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Old August 11th, 2007, 12:26 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99grandtj View Post
I posted the same link further up :miff:
Alright, my bad.......... sorry.

Anyway, I've been thinking about this all morning. My next build will still be spool rear and Detroit front. Simple and trouble free.
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