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Old November 28th, 2005, 05:43 PM   #1
Captain Ledd
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Default Ranger/Bronco II 302 V8 Swap

Why pick the 302 engine?
The 302 is actually a pretty small V8 width wise, about 18". Other engines are quite a bit larger, the 4.6L V8 which is a whopping 30" WIDE (SOHC, the DOHC is even wider) and it's also a great deal taller than a 302. The 5.7L V8 is very similar to the 4.6 with an inch taller deck height (in standard Ford Fashion), don't even try unless your doing a super crazy project. The Chevy 350 is about 20" wide. The 5.0 Ford V8 is the fuel injected version of the 302, essentially the same engine, but there is a different firing order. I'll try and find a 351W measurement at some point. All measurements stated above are from the outside of each of the valve covers, not including headers or manifolds.

What is involved in getting the engine to fit?
One thing that is just about unavoidable is to cut into the airbox. This WILL interfere with the valve cover of the 302, more so with any other engine.

The firewall will have to be bent a little (I used a truck bellhousing, which is larger than a car bellhousing, more explained later). It is possible to get away with just bending the seam around the bellhousing area flat against the cab. Unfortunately for me, I was not so lucky. I used James Duff's Headers for the 302/Ranger combination and had to seriously bend my floor pan in order for it to fit the headers:
2/10/06 - A body lift will signifigantly help with the clearances underneth, even as little as 1". I forgot to include this because my mounts are currently caving in on themselves and I never looked into it because it was simply not a safe option for me. Hockey pucks supposedly work well, but in certain instances I'm told they will rot, other times, I'm told they hold up for years of abuse. They're cheap at around $1 per puck. New bolts will be required and are pretty much only available at a specialty fastener retailer due to length requirements. 3" is the maximum legal limit for a body lift in Michigan.

*due to conflicting information, I have not included what OEM headers/manifolds will fit. I plan to include this in a week or 2.

What kind of radiator to use?
The stock radiator will not fit. Hands down. Even if you did somehow rig it to fit, it does not have the cooling capacity needed for the 302. There are probably quite a few radiators that will fit so long as they're 3 or 4 core. You will have to mount the radiator under the grill support. This is why. Note the distance between the fan pulley and the top edge of the grill support, the fan isn't even on. On top of that my engine is currently sitting against the firewall!, I need to move it even farther forward. James Duff offers 2 radiators that can accomplish this. One is the standard style copper/brass radiator, and the other is an aluminum one. You can use another radiator but it will have to fit into an area 23 inches wide and 17 inches tall. You could squeeze out a little more vertical space by trimming out the bottom of the support a little (I'd find some way of reinforcing it afterwards) keep in mind that that may cut down on the width due to the frame (I'll remember to check next time I go home). You will also have to find a way to get to the filler neck, either by brazing/soldering/welding a new neck on that comes out under the top of the bracket or fabricating a nifty funnel type device. It would also be best to use an electric fan, either a large one mounted offset, or 2 fans on either side due to the water pump.

Is there any way to gain more clearance there?
There are a few companies who make shorter water pumps, Ford Motorsports makes some I'm told. They supposedly require special pulleys, more so the serpentine belt than the V-belt system, but I'm sure with proper planning and ingenuity most of the issues and specialty parts can be avoided. Some pumps on the 302 have different rotations to them, be shure you get one that will work with your setup.

302's came with a number of oil pans, is any one better than the other?
Actually, yes. You need one with a rear sump. There are 2 main types. There is a straight rear sump pan which could work, but you will need a fair amount of modification to the pan in order to clear the passenger axle drop bracket. I'll find the pictures of the pan out of the truck in a few days, I know I have them somewhere. A way to avoid this is to use a dual sump pan, Most 80's Mustangs and Crown Vic's should have them. If you can't find one, I'm sure you can order new ones through the local parts store or the dealership. And trust me, I WISH I had gone with the dual sump pan.

The oil filter.
Here is another must. You will NEED to relocate the oil filter, here is why. James Duff offers the best kit I've found. It's one of the less expensive kits I've found and I think it will do the job nicely (I have the kit on my truck, however I have yet to even start it, much less see how it holds up). A picture of the kit is here. Other kits can work as well, but as you can see from the first picture, it's almost impossible to fit something in there that doesn't have an immediate 90 bend out from the stock location. Once that is on, mount the new filter bracket wherever is convenient for you. I've heard from a few of my automotive friends a Chevy Blazer had an oil filter reallocator if your looking into an OEM option. I'm currently looking into this more.

Engine mounts
There is a way to make your own if you have a 4.0L V6. I'm told this is what they look like, as for more information, I can't really help you; I had to buy new mounts. If anyone has better info on that, let me know and I'll include it. Otherwise, your best bet is mounts from a 1985 Mustang GT. Supposedly these are the mounts that James Duff sells, which is what I ordered. They have the Ford emblem on them but I couldn't find a part number.

Drilling new holes for the mustang mounts:

*****THIS IS FOR AN 1984 RANGER WITH THE 2.8L - THOUGH IS PROBABLY SIMILAR TO OTHERS*****

Drivers side: 1" up from the original bolt hole - 1/2" toward the back of the vehicle, drill a 1/2" slot 1" long (continuing toward the back of the vehicle). Use the mount with a "R" stamped into it.

Passenger side: 2.5" up from the original bolt hole - 2" toward the back of the vehicle, drill a 1/2" slot 1" long (continuing toward the back of the vehicle). Use the mount with the "L" stamped into it.

Use a good, grade 8, washer on the back side of the engine cradle bracket just to make sure the nuts don't pull through.

Truck vs. Car bellhousings
Car bellhousings are smaller than the truck bellhousings. Truck bellhousing flywheels have 164 teeth, compared to the car flywheel which has 157 teeth. Both housings have the same bolt pattern against the block. The car bellhousing I'm told is smaller and is more friendly to the Rangers' dimensions. I had the truck bellhousing, I would agree that a smaller bellhousing would have been much easier. The car bellhousing would utilize the T-5 Transmission and not the heavier duty T-18 as I used.

More in the next post.

Last edited by Captain Ledd; May 21st, 2007 at 10:07 PM.
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Old November 28th, 2005, 05:43 PM   #2
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Which transmissions can I use then?
More or less any, depending on how crazy you want to go. For the record, I'd recommend against putting a T-18 in (darnit!, right up through the dash) but it's your choice. For ease of installation and less frustration I'd go with one of the following:This is a manual transmission from a mustang rated at about 300 ft lbs (I'm told it will handle more depending on driving styles), and probably would have solved a great many of the issues I had with my installation. I couldn't find much in the ways of a transfercase hook up though. I have seen an exploded diagram depicting a t-case, but it did not say what kind it was. I'd post more information about it, but I have come across a really awesome site for T-5 specs and identification. Keep in mind you'll have to get creative with the clutch linkage, the T-5 bellhousing uses mechanical linkage.
More or less the same ratios as the T-5, and able to handle a lot more torque (500 ft lbs/600 ft lbs - go figure), roughly the same length too! There are shift lever kits available from Tremec to move the shift lever to 8 different locations for other applications as well. The previous model, TR-3550 and the TKO, have been discontinued. Though they share the same case, different internals. These are not really found on any production cars but can be fitted to a large number of Ford and GM Bellhousings . Both transmissions utilize a 26 spline 1 1/8 input shaft, and a 31 spline output shaft similar to a C6. I have found a couple sites offering aftermarket bellhousings to fit this transmission in a number of applications. They are: http://www.fortesparts.com and Lakewood Bellhousings. It doesn't look like the designers of this transmission really had a T-case in mind. A divorced case on a Ranger would work, it will be trickier on a Bronco II. If you feel up to it, it is all Aluminum and probably possible to weld on supports and a back plate to adapt for a transfer case. I'd make certain to have that professionally looked into and performed.
  • C-4 / C-5
Near as I have read, these 2 transmissions are very interchangeable. I've never been much of an automatic guy, so my will to find a ton of info on these is limited. But I do have some. Supposedly, the C-5 and C-4 look almost identical except for a hump in the C-5's oil pan. The C-4 is a 3-speed transmission. I'm told some Ranger's and Bronco II's came with a C-4, and other V8 C-4 versions will fit as well. The C-5 I believe is a bit stronger. This info is really vague, if any of you can help with this it would be much appreciated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris1044
The C4 is a three speed tranny - and can be built up to be very strong, I know some mustang people have them behind 800+ Hp engines without any problems. The C5 tranny is basically a downsized version of the C4, and is also a three speed tranny. It uses the same basic internals as the C4, but has a smaller size to fit into compact vehicles. If you've got a C series tranny in your ranger (which is very rare) you've got a C5 (the C4 wasn't offered in the Ranger/BII platform - RBV platfrom). The C5 was only produced from 82-86, and is quite rare all together - it was only available in RBV's from 83-85. While they may be as strong as the C4 in stock form, I dont think the bell housing pattern will allow them to be used with a V8 (as far as I know, it was only bolted behind the 2.9/2.8 engine, which has the same bolt pattern as the 4.0 OHV). However, the 4x4 model of the C5 is very desirable because it will allow you to swap it's tail shaft into a C4 when doing a V8 swap, and keep the 1350/1354 transfer case found in the RBV based vehicles. Advanced adapters also offers an adapter for the C4 with stock internals to the RBV T case....Typically the shifters for trans swap will be routed through the floor - if you wish to retain the column shifter, you'll have to fab something up

The AOD trans is another option when doing a V8 swap. Built from 80-93, the tranny is a fully hydraulic overdrive unit. The strongest versions were found behind F and E series vehicles from 92 and 93, but anything after 88 found behind a V8 is worth using in a swap because it will have the updated lube system. Advanced adapters makes a tailshaft adapter to retain the stock RBV T case for this trans as well.

The AODE is an electronic version of the AOD trans, and was made from 91 up. There are a few different versions, some wide ratio and some close.

The C6/E4OD trans can also be used during a swap, but will be extremely tight under the ranger body. I've seen it done, and every truck has had a 3" body lift and extensive firewall modifications to make the bell housing fit. The E4OD is an electronic overdrive version of the C6, and unless you're swapping in a big block, you probably don't need one.
Transfer-cases
I have found several places claiming that the Dana 300 will work behind the Ford T-5 transmission, but parts from a Jeep T-5 will have to be either swapped in, or existing parts drilled to match the bolt patterns (in some cases both). A picture of the Jeep T-5 shows the T-case adapter in a very similar location and style as the ford version, but that does not guarantee it working. A rebuild manual I found shows pictures of a Ford T-5 with a transmission adapter assembly. This is probably available from Ford, though it does not say what T-case it attaches to. However it will provide a base to more easily make your own adapter if necessary.

Advance Adapters offers several adapters with Ford transmissions to a variety of T-cases. Most of the T-5 stuff is no longer available, but there is some available for the automatics though. I've seen several sources claim the stock Ranger/Bronco II Borg-Warner 1350 T-case is able to handle 302 power, so that may be able to be reused.

The C4 transmission from a fullsize Bronco came with a Dana 20 from the factory behind it, and should prove more than reliable in a Ranger/Bronco II chassis.

Other stuff
My 302 had the v-belt system, the same type as the stock 2.6L V6 my Ranger came with. I was able to re-use the alternator and power steering pump with the 302. I'd recommend not setting it up like mine though, I ground down brackets to make them fit and line up. There are OEM factory brackets available that fit the 302 and the alternator and steering pump, I do not know what they were from though. I have heard rumors that there was a car that came with an on board air compressor from the factory on the 302, again, I do not know what vehicle or what years.

Credits:
I spent a lot of time searching around for this stuff, I must give credit where credit is due.
www.fordmuscle.com
http://members.aol.com/MREPRODUCT/ranger.htm
http://www.therangerstation.com
http://www.jamesduff.com
The Ferris State University Automotive Program
And most of all my Dad, for help with the install, helping me get out of the corners I worked myself into, and his constant support (because man did I get frustrated).

Grammar Adviser: Stephen Erickson
Technical Advisers: Charles Sheridan, Mackenzie Clancy, Eric Franzik

If there are any errors please let me know! I'd really hate to give someone bad information! Also, if there is anything missing, or if you have extra bits of information to add, please tell me! I'll add it to the write up and give you credit for the information.

This is also a work in progress and as I find out new information I will post it in here.

Last edited by Captain Ledd; February 19th, 2006 at 08:49 PM.
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Old November 28th, 2005, 05:48 PM   #3
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reserved post so that if it get's too long and reaches the character limit, information will still be with the main part of the post.

Last edited by Captain Ledd; November 28th, 2005 at 05:56 PM.
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Old November 29th, 2005, 06:53 PM   #4
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Fawk that, use the 351

Good stuff though.....might add that if you plan on doing the swap is that advanced adapters has some adapters for GM trannies as well, if you wanted to go that route.

Last edited by chris1044; November 29th, 2005 at 06:56 PM.
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Old November 29th, 2005, 07:35 PM   #5
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Actually I wanted to use the 351, but NO ONE had ANY running engines. so after about a month and a half of searching gas started really skyrocketing and I settled on a 302.

Last edited by Captain Ledd; January 2nd, 2007 at 03:24 PM.
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Old February 3rd, 2006, 05:35 PM   #6
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Added/edited Tremec TKO 500/600 transmissions.

Edited Bellhousings.

BTW CC, could I this get moved to the FAQ's section? I didn't see it up there when I first posted this.
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Old February 3rd, 2006, 06:47 PM   #7
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Although he's not on here much, Truckman is very knowledgeable about Bronco IIs, and has done at least one 302 swap, as well as making a 'Ranger II'
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Old February 3rd, 2006, 09:44 PM   #8
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nice write up russ
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Old February 4th, 2006, 01:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar
Although he's not on here much, Truckman is very knowledgeable about Bronco IIs, and has done at least one 302 swap, as well as making a 'Ranger II'
Is that taking a Bronco II and chopping the back roof off like the full size ones? I've seen that done before, it looks pretty sweet.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 11:02 AM   #10
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I'll look for a pic. Yeah, he did it with a extended cab, so it has a tiny bed, like a trunk almost..

Has a regular back window and everything.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 12:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar
I'll look for a pic. Yeah, he did it with a extended cab, so it has a tiny bed, like a trunk almost..

Has a regular back window and everything.
Thats a pretty sweet twist. If I did that I'd probably put a 45 sloped cover over it like a Hummer. That would look bitchin.
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Old February 5th, 2006, 12:28 PM   #12
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Here is a link about Truckman's truck.
It is a sweet ride that he put alot of time into.
http://www.therangerstation.com/gall...onDionne2.html
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Old February 5th, 2006, 12:43 PM   #13
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Original and very professional looking. Thanks for the pics!
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Old February 5th, 2006, 12:50 PM   #14
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Thanks for posting the pics, Mike, I couldn't find any...
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Old February 10th, 2006, 12:32 PM   #15
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Added body lift section to "Getting Engine to Fit".

CC, could I get this moved to FAQs? I didn't see it up there when I first posted this. Thanks!
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Old February 19th, 2006, 01:10 AM   #16
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Heres the 302 im planning on putting in my 88 b2,im go to use a 2"or 3" body lift so i have some room,have not desided yet..
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Old February 19th, 2006, 01:24 AM   #17
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Thats a bitchin looking engine. I like the red.

I'm gonna try to locate the engine mount location bolt diagram next weekend on where to drill holes for the engine mounts. I was actually thinking about your swap just a few days ago and realized I never got that up there.
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Old February 19th, 2006, 06:11 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ledd
[B]
  • C-4 / C-5
Near as I have read, these 2 transmissions are very interchangeable. I've never been much of an automatic guy, so my will to find a ton of info on these is limited. But I do have some. Supposedly, the C-5 and C-4 look almost identical except for a hump in the C-5's oil pan. The C-4 is a 3-speed transmission. I'm told some Ranger's and Bronco II's came with a C-4, and other V8 C-4 versions will fit as well. The C-5 I believe is a bit stronger. This info is really vague, if any of you can help with this it would be much appreciated.

The C4 is a three speed tranny - and can be built up to be very strong, I know some mustang people have them behind 800+ Hp engines without any problems. The C5 tranny is basically a downsized version of the C4, and is also a three speed tranny. It uses the same basic internals as the C4, but has a smaller size to fit into compact vehicles. If you've got a C series tranny in your ranger (which is very rare) you've got a C5 (the C4 wasn't offered in the Ranger/BII platform - RBV platfrom). The C5 was only produced from 82-86, and is quite rare all together - it was only available in RBV's from 83-85. While they may be as strong as the C4 in stock form, I dont think the bell housing pattern will allow them to be used with a V8 (as far as I know, it was only bolted behind the 2.9/2.8 engine, which has the same bolt pattern as the 4.0 OHV). However, the 4x4 model of the C5 is very desirable because it will allow you to swap it's tail shaft into a C4 when doing a V8 swap, and keep the 1350/1354 transfer case found in the RBV based vehicles. Advanced adapters also offers an adapter for the C4 with stock internals to the RBV T case....Typically the shifters for trans swap will be routed through the floor - if you wish to retain the column shifter, you'll have to fab something up

The AOD trans is another option when doing a V8 swap. Built from 80-93, the tranny is a fully hydraulic overdrive unit. The strongest versions were found behind F and E series vehicles from 92 and 93, but anything after 88 found behind a V8 is worth using in a swap because it will have the updated lube system. Advanced adapters makes a tailshaft adapter to retain the stock RBV T case for this trans as well.

The AODE is an electronic version of the AOD trans, and was made from 91 up. There are a few different versions, some wide ratio and some close.

The C6/E4OD trans can also be used during a swap, but will be extremely tight under the ranger body. I've seen it done, and every truck has had a 3" body lift and extensive firewall modifications to make the bell housing fit. The E4OD is an electronic overdrive version of the C6, and unless you're swapping in a big block, you probably don't need one.
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Old February 19th, 2006, 08:50 PM   #19
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Thanks Chris!!! Added to the C4/C5 section and credited to you!
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Old March 13th, 2006, 02:49 PM   #20
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FINALLY!

Added the dimentions for the mustang mounts. I would have had pictures, but our digital camera seems to have been misplaced >_> ...
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