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Old July 7th, 2007, 01:59 PM   #1
xjrehab32
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Default 28 spline 9" strength

i bought a narrow 9" and i am planing on putting it in my jeep with 35's, how well do you think it will hold up if i lock it? i have a set of 31 spline shafts and longer 9" housing with a big bearing also. help me connect the dots...
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Old July 7th, 2007, 02:13 PM   #2
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I would upgrade to 31 spline, the 28's are pretty weak
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Old July 7th, 2007, 03:14 PM   #3
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i bought a narrow 9" and i am planing on putting it in my jeep with 35's, how well do you think it will hold up if i lock it? i have a set of 31 spline shafts and longer 9" housing with a big bearing also. help me connect the dots...
Guys run the Versailles axles all day at the drag strip. The 28-spline axles are cheap enough to replace if you break one.

Was the axle narrowed or is it a narrow axle (stock)?
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Old July 7th, 2007, 03:18 PM   #4
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Guys run the Versailles axles all day at the drag strip. The 28-spline axles are cheap enough to replace if you break one.

Was the axle narrowed or is it a narrow axle (stock)?
to tell you the truth, i have no clue. it looks stock, i pulled it from a junk yard. how difficult is it to remove the bearing ends and replace them with the larger one?
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Old July 7th, 2007, 03:30 PM   #5
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to tell you the truth, i have no clue. it looks stock, i pulled it from a junk yard. how difficult is it to remove the bearing ends and replace them with the larger one?
Not very, but you'll need an alignment jig to that they're welded on straight.

If it's from a junkyard, chances are it's stock.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 11:30 AM   #6
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I would go with the 31 splines.... i'd also upgrade them to , to mossers or somthing so there stronger. If you use the 28 spline and buy a locker than later want to upgrade to 31, you will need to replace the locker for a 31 spline. Do it correct the first time and be done with it. Also have you thought about doing disc brakes ??? I did and its a great mod! Uses full size truck dana 44 rotors from the front of a 78 ford. If you need pics and more info PM me and i can help yah.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 02:32 PM   #7
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I would go with the 31 splines.... i'd also upgrade them to , to mossers or somthing so there stronger. If you use the 28 spline and buy a locker than later want to upgrade to 31, you will need to replace the locker for a 31 spline. Do it correct the first time and be done with it. Also have you thought about doing disc brakes ??? I did and its a great mod! Uses full size truck dana 44 rotors from the front of a 78 ford. If you need pics and more info PM me and i can help yah.
Might as well go big bearing ford with 35-spline shafts then.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 03:59 PM   #8
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Might as well go big bearing ford with 35-spline shafts then.
I was gonna say that but if you don't want a spool then you have to upgrade the 3rd member too. But really it is the best route to go.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 05:04 PM   #9
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I would go with the 31 splines.... i'd also upgrade them to , to mossers or somthing so there stronger. If you use the 28 spline and buy a locker than later want to upgrade to 31, you will need to replace the locker for a 31 spline. Do it correct the first time and be done with it.

I would have to agree with this statement. Big bearing would def be the way to go. You know you're gonna want to upgrade later, so don't buy parts twice.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 06:25 PM   #10
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Honestly, in the long run, an 8.8 would be a better value for you.

Doesn't have such a low pinion, disc brakes, etc...
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Old July 12th, 2007, 02:15 AM   #11
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I wish i went 35 spline as it wouldn't of cost me any more money since i bought mosser shafts.

Reason for going 31- spline is you can pick up stock 31 spline shafts from the junkyard cheap and carry those incase you brake one.

But KillerB and I can NOT figure what my axle came from since NOTHING would fit it... went though somthing like 4 sets of mosser shafts befor sending in the stock ones. So i can't even get a set of junkyard ones for a spare

oh and if your interested...pics of my dis brake setup :)







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Old July 12th, 2007, 11:31 AM   #12
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How do you bleed that with the bleeder not being the highest point?

How do you get the caliper off there with the inner brake pad under that lip and a clip inside the piston?
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Old July 13th, 2007, 01:37 AM   #13
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Bleeder is the highest pint??

These are the easiest calipers to work with :) The two bolts you see ... well the inner pad has a hole in it where the bolt goes through to hold it in place. Than the outter pad has a lip that goes over the bolt. Its a sliding caliper. Take the two bolts off, and slide the caliper off.
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Old July 13th, 2007, 10:37 AM   #14
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Bleeder is the highest pint??

These are the easiest calipers to work with :) The two bolts you see ... well the inner pad has a hole in it where the bolt goes through to hold it in place. Than the outter pad has a lip that goes over the bolt. Its a sliding caliper. Take the two bolts off, and slide the caliper off.
The side pic doesn't look like the bleeder is the highest point (not the bleeder itself, but the point where the fluid enters the bleeder). The piston housing looks higher than the bottom of the bleeder which can cause air to get trapped.

I know how the calipers work, but the inner pad has a clip that goes inside the piston so you can't slide the caliper off when the pad is trapped under the edges of the bracket. Or did you not use the clip?
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Old July 13th, 2007, 12:51 PM   #15
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i didn't use any clip?? The pads arn't going anywhere though???
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Old July 13th, 2007, 02:03 PM   #16
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i didn't use any clip?? The pads arn't going anywhere though???
There's a clip that's supposed to go on the inboard pad so the pad moves back with the piston. It doesn't *have* to be there, but could cause the pad to wear quicker if it stays against the rotor.

For the air pocket thing, see the attached image. The bleeder hole in the piston chamber is lower than the highest point of the chamber so there's no way to get the air out.

Let me say that I'm not trying to knock your setup, I'm just pointing out an area you may want to look at. You can keep it the way it is, but you'd have to raise one side of the caliper to bleed it properly (unless the angle of the picture is totally throwing me off, in which case nevermind).

I'll have to look at redoing my setup because I used a slightly different caliper and have it down a bit farther to sit the bleeder up high and ended up running one of the caliper bolts into a rock (no damage, but the potential is there).
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Old July 13th, 2007, 05:34 PM   #17
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ok i get what your saying... This was a pic. taken during setup. The axle wasn't set to the correct angle. Just there to roll the frame around. I'll have to go look at it somtime today or tomorrow how it sits now and take a pic and post it.

As for the clip.. mabey i do have it lol? but cannot recall putting one in. I guess i should look into it as if it makes my pads last longer....

The caliper i'm using is off an 88 k10 i think. Rotor is from a 78-79 ford f150 front.
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Old July 13th, 2007, 08:52 PM   #18
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The caliper i'm using is off an 88 k10 i think. Rotor is from a 78-79 ford f150 front.
Mine's a little different because I use a Chevy wheel bolt pattern front and rear.

I used a newer style front Chevy rotor/caliper.
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Old July 13th, 2007, 11:39 PM   #19
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But KillerB and I can NOT figure what my axle came from since NOTHING would fit it... went though somthing like 4 sets of mosser shafts befor sending in the stock ones. So i can't even get a set of junkyard ones for a spare
How wide is the axle?
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Old July 14th, 2007, 12:49 AM   #20
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not sure.
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