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Old July 7th, 2007, 11:45 AM   #1
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Default Drag Link rebuild

The steering on my 85 4runner is getting a little sloppy. I ordered a drag link rebuild kit. I have an 80 axle laying around and figured I would try to take it apart to see what I was in for before I tear into my daily driver. It looks like I am going to need a giant straight bladed screwdriver to take this apart. Has anybody rebuilt a drag link on a yota?
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Old July 7th, 2007, 03:00 PM   #2
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I've only taken them apart. Yeah, its like a 3/4" wide screw. Mines all hi-steer now...
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Old July 7th, 2007, 03:40 PM   #3
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will that axle from the 80 fit on my 92?
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Old July 7th, 2007, 09:44 PM   #4
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I think the solid front axles are all about the same except the later ones have a beefier housing. I am taking it apart for spares.
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Old July 7th, 2007, 10:46 PM   #5
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You'll also need heat to get that screw out. Hate those things. I have a giant flat blade looking socket that goes on a 1/2 drive ratchet or impact. I usually adapt it down to 3/8 and use my 3/8 impact to get them apart.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 10:49 AM   #6
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Take care of that thing, mine cost me a tire when my seperated and put the pitman arm threw my side wall.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 11:31 AM   #7
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It wasn't so bad. Took spare one apart to see how it worked then took one off of 4Runner. Had to use spare drag link as one of the sockets was siezed in the one off of 4Runner. The worst part was getting cotter pins out of spare one. I stopped at the tool barn on M59 near Howell and he had a 1/2" drive screwdriver bit that fit perfect. I'll have to throw that in my Toy tool kit with the 54mm snap on socket I had to buy to do the wheel bearings. No heat no bfh. It definately tightened up my steering.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 03:47 PM   #8
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I wonder if it's possible to find a different part with maybe a hex(allen) in it instead of the slot.I'll hafta look next time I'm at the hardware store.Matchin the tread would be the only hard part.hmmmmm....
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Old July 9th, 2007, 09:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by incogrhino View Post
I wonder if it's possible to find a different part with maybe a hex(allen) in it instead of the slot.I'll hafta look next time I'm at the hardware store.Matchin the tread would be the only hard part.hmmmmm....
now that's an idea....but that would be a damn big allen bolt...like a huge ass set screw.
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Old July 10th, 2007, 03:22 PM   #10
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yep, I just hate the slot.That and maybe in 20 years I could actually get it apart again.Ahhh, but with out the slot, there is no where to run the cotter pin threw.hmmmm...
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Old July 10th, 2007, 06:22 PM   #11
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Cotter pin? Ones I worked on didn't have a cotter pin. Maybe that's why they were all f-ed up.:tonka:
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Old July 11th, 2007, 11:40 AM   #12
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You could always drill thru the new part for the cotter pin. I really had no problem with the slot and truck is 22 years old. I would not want to do it without the 1/2" drive bit. I used anti-sieze when I put it back together. I don't think it has been in Mi that long. It was clean and kinda low miles 92K when I bought it 4 years ago. I had to take drivers seat out last night it went from being one of the most comfortable to an backache pretty quick. All of the welds were broken on the parts that the pivot brackets bolt to on the upper part. I don't think I have to worry about that after I welded it back up. I think it is telling me to lose some weight. Have to take it back out though it will not recline now and my head is in the roof.
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