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Old July 3rd, 2007, 09:09 PM   #1
TurboChris
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Default Need some advice on an axel swap!

I have a 91 wrangler 4.0 stock. I was going to swap to dana 44 which I currently have a dana 35 rear and a dana 30 frnt. But I was advised if I go to a 44 it isnt much harder to go to a chevy 3\4 ton set of axels. A guy told me it was over kill but I think it is planning for whats ahead.
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Old July 3rd, 2007, 10:09 PM   #2
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What you need to do first, is state what your plans are.

And tell us what your Dana 44 is out of. CHevy 3/4 ton axles could cause you a lot of trouble, given that the front differential is on the wrong side...
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Old July 3rd, 2007, 10:48 PM   #3
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I would avoid 10 and 12-bolts in general.

8.8's will probably piss you off when you swap one in and then start breaking your D30 front a lot, as there aren't any swaps other than a Rubicon D44 that make maintaining the 5x4.5" pattern easy. Some people end up running a 5x5.5" D44 front with adapters on the 8.8 rear, but then their wheels are useless. You run into a lot of cost just to end up with medium-duty stuff. If you're going to stay light and under 35", 8.8's and a non-disco HPD30 with chromoly shafts will probably serve you well.

Narrow-track FSJ D44's are a very close match on spring perch spacing and a good width (~60.5"), but the required 1980-up D44 is kind of a turd among its D44 peers since its low-pinion and non-flat-top.

78-79 F-250 HPD44/D60's are an exact spring perch width match, reverse-cut gears, have flat-top knuckles, dual-piston calipers, a strongest housing, and have SOA factory perches. If you want to plan for the future, this is what I would buy as the HPD60 front from the same year range is a bolt in if you ever get to that point.


Buy the axles that are the best for your plans. THEN buy rims and tires. Many people fukc themselves because they blow $ on shit to make their Jeep look nice that is useless when it comes time to upgrade because the patterns don't match the new axles.
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Old July 4th, 2007, 11:54 AM   #4
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Hey guys thanks for all the help. I dont plan on getting to crazy with my jeep but every time I say somthing on that line it back fires on me cause well I have to face it I like having fun. Once again thanks ...
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Old July 4th, 2007, 12:32 PM   #5
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I would avoid 10 and 12-bolts in general.

8.8's will probably piss you off when you swap one in and then start breaking your D30 front a lot, as there aren't any swaps other than a Rubicon D44 that make maintaining the 5x4.5" pattern easy. Some people end up running a 5x5.5" D44 front with adapters on the 8.8 rear, but then their wheels are useless. You run into a lot of cost just to end up with medium-duty stuff. If you're going to stay light and under 35", 8.8's and a non-disco HPD30 with chromoly shafts will probably serve you well.

Narrow-track FSJ D44's are a very close match on spring perch spacing and a good width (~60.5"), but the required 1980-up D44 is kind of a turd among its D44 peers since its low-pinion and non-flat-top.

78-79 F-250 HPD44/D60's are an exact spring perch width match, reverse-cut gears, have flat-top knuckles, dual-piston calipers, a strongest housing, and have SOA factory perches. If you want to plan for the future, this is what I would buy as the HPD60 front from the same year range is a bolt in if you ever get to that point.


Buy the axles that are the best for your plans. THEN buy rims and tires. Many people fukc themselves because they blow $ on shit to make their Jeep look nice that is useless when it comes time to upgrade because the patterns don't match the new axles.
PP glad to have you back you have a good wealth of knowledge
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Old July 4th, 2007, 10:23 PM   #6
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78-79 F-250 HPD44/D60's are an exact spring perch width match, reverse-cut gears, have flat-top knuckles, dual-piston calipers, a strongest housing, and have SOA factory perches. If you want to plan for the future, this is what I would buy as the HPD60 front from the same year range is a bolt in if you ever get to that point.


Buy the axles that are the best for your plans. THEN buy rims and tires. Many people fukc themselves because they blow $ on shit to make their Jeep look nice that is useless when it comes time to upgrade because the patterns don't match the new axles.
im running a 9"/hip. 44 combo out of a 78 f150 and am very happy with it.
its a little more work for you than the 3/4ton but a good strong lighter compromize, that can be had for cheep
my 2 cents
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Old July 4th, 2007, 11:57 PM   #7
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im running a 9"/hip. 44 combo out of a 78 f150 and am very happy with it.
its a little more work for you than the 3/4ton but a good strong lighter compromize, that can be had for cheep
my 2 cents
Picture's 14-16 here are why I don't recommend that front axle to anyone. More work for less strength (cast tubes), no flat-tops, thin-wall knuckles, and 1/2 ton brakes. I'm not trying to shit on you, it just doesn't stack up to the F-250 if you have the choice.

The 9" rear is fine.

Last edited by PävementPounder; July 5th, 2007 at 12:01 AM.
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Old July 5th, 2007, 10:23 PM   #8
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Hey one more thing I am fixing my jeep right now rearend took a poop on me. How do you set the pinion angle for the rear end. It is a fix to keep me running till I get differnt (Bigger) axles..

Last edited by TurboChris; July 5th, 2007 at 10:25 PM. Reason: Also what you guys are saying is I should go to a f250 axle set up over all it is my best bet?
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Old July 6th, 2007, 06:54 AM   #9
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Hey one more thing I am fixing my jeep right now rearend took a poop on me. How do you set the pinion angle for the rear end. It is a fix to keep me running till I get differnt (Bigger) axles..
Please define what "took a poop on me" means. If you are setting the pinion angle, are you saying that the "poop" was your spring perches breaking off or something?
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Old July 6th, 2007, 07:23 AM   #10
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When I bought the Jeep the guy I bought it from drove it around with no gear oil in it so the spider gears froze up in the currier. I thought about going to a bigger axle now but Id rather just get it going now and buy everything I need then do the big switch.
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Old July 6th, 2007, 07:48 AM   #11
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Okay, it sounds like you may not know what "pinion angle" actually is. If you didn't move your spring perches at all, your pinion angle has not changed. If your Jeep is stock and you have not added lifted springs, there is no reason to change your pinion angle.

What have you done so far? Tell us exactly what you did to start repairing this problem. Have you taken the carrier out?
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Old July 6th, 2007, 08:10 AM   #12
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Well I had to put a whole differnt rearned in it because I couldnt find a axle out of a 91-95 wrangler so I went with a cheroke rear end and ther is a big differance in the twos curriers. So to save mone I just took my axle out and I am swaping it with another.. Also I had 307 gears and now I am going to have 410. But I can swap the currier in the frunt. Well as far as I can tell the are the same up frunt. And I do know what pinion angle is but I dont know how to set it I have an angle finder.
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Old July 6th, 2007, 08:11 AM   #13
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Well the currier isnt differnt but the way the axle is held in and the spider gears.
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Old July 6th, 2007, 08:34 AM   #14
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Well, this is the only thread you have ever created, so you didn't look for a YJ axle very hard. You didn't even make a post for one in the Wanted Forum. How about you tell us where you are located so we can see if there's someone near you that can help you out with fixing this or perhaps get you a D35 rear for your YJ?


Anyway, so you removed the entire rear axle from your YJ and are replacing it with an XJ rear of some type, so you're welding on new spring perches, correct? Still using the stock YJ driveshaft and slip yoke? You didn't specify which model XJ axle it is, so you may have a driveshaft length difference to deal with. If you still have the YJ axle, measure the angle between the pinion and the spring perches and duplicate it on the XJ axle. Or, bolt the XJ axle in with the perches unwelded so you can rotate the axle to the correct angle, tack weld the perches in place, take the axle back out, finish the welds.

For the front D30, I think you're going to have to set up the gears since you're swapping a pinion and carrier/gears from another housing, so the existing shimming is useless. I suppose its worth a shot to throw the pinion and carrier in as-is to see what pattern you get, but don't just expect it to be correct the first time. Read this thread so you understand what you're getting into:

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=34529
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Old July 6th, 2007, 09:06 AM   #15
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Correct I didnt post a thread because I didnt find out about this untill I had already bout the differnt axels. But I have d30/d35 with 307gear. I bought d30/d35 out of a xj. year unknown.. Mine is a 91yj. Im in east muskegon. Ive been talk with a jeep guy out in my area but I really wanna learn for my self and for the most part I under stand and I have been doing the work. I gotta say I am doing a good job for not ever having anyone show me befor . I was never a wrench head but I always liked to get into it but didnt have anyone to show me . But I can do some killer body work that I learned on my own.
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Old July 6th, 2007, 09:06 AM   #16
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And once again THANKS for your time.......
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Old July 6th, 2007, 09:22 PM   #17
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Picture's 14-16 here are why I don't recommend that front axle to anyone. More work for less strength (cast tubes), no flat-tops, thin-wall knuckles, and 1/2 ton brakes. I'm not trying to shit on you, it just doesn't stack up to the F-250 if you have the choice.

The 9" rear is fine.
thats why i wrote "compromize"
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