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Old February 15th, 2006, 05:51 PM   #1
victorymike
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Default Body rot repair.

I just accomplished something that I am a bit proud of and wanted to share.

Driving to work last week I noticed that I could see the road thru the side of my tub. On closer inspection it had the typical rot by the driver's side wheel wells. I didn't care how ugly it looked...mainly that my floor was staying wet with potential to rust out the floor pans in the near future. I've never done body work before and was worried what I'd get into but it needed to be done. So I hacked away at it with my die grinder and welded in some patch panels. Not too bad for only having access to an arc welder, if I do say so myself. However, I did get some heat warping on the front panel. I used 1/8" scrap sheet metal laying around at work and whatever rattle can paint we had...thus only had gray primer (4 coats) and green pearl auto paint (3 coats).

Pic of both patch panels. Yeah...I see the rot on the windshield frame and I am planning on a repacement frame/glass in the near future.

This is all that was left of the rear panel I cut out...after removing what load-bearing paint there was.

The front panel...only slivers were left after cutting it out and I threw it all away before taking the pic so no comparison. I also had to repair the framework on the backside of this panel by welding in gussets.


The metal that I welded in was about 3 times as thick as the sheetmetal body and it sticks out. I think it adds character to my old Jeep.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 07:10 PM   #2
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I'd have been more imressed if you had welded the same thickness metal as the body, to the body with an arc welder
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Old February 15th, 2006, 07:18 PM   #3
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No grinders handy? Or black primer??

You might want to go out about another 5 inches or so, some rust will come back very quick.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 08:45 PM   #4
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Of course I had a grinder and I used it. I cut until I had perfect metal to weld to, ground the paint off and tacked and tacked and tacked until I had a solid weld. Ground the welds down and retacked where I saw holes and low spots. And no...I had no black primer. I wasn't looking for perfect...just less of a Flintstone-mobile.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 09:06 PM   #5
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Do you have a DA? I would recomend goin down to the metal a little farther out and re-applying the primer, and if you got black primer, it stillwouldnt look perfect
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Old February 15th, 2006, 09:19 PM   #6
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Whats a DA?

I painted past my welds and all bare metal a few inches all around...over the original black paint. I am not a body repair tech...this is my first attempt at anything like this. I am just clueless. Let me know what works best to keep it from rusting again really soon. I am open to any techniques recommended.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 09:46 PM   #7
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Dual Action Sander, Palm DA would be best here. That inch and a half that you went out wont be enough, you need to take it out a little farther. Take the edge down off the green primer to black as well, then get some black gloss primer

When you are taping it off, use autobody paper/tape. It has the tape on one side and then paper so you can mask things off easier. But instead of placing the straight line of the tape right next to what you are painting, try a feathering technique. Try to use only four or five sheets of autobody paper, and when you put the first piece of paper down, put it down so that the paper covers the spot you will be painting and the tape is about 2 to 3 inches away from the main area that you want to paint. Then pull the paper back but do not crease it . leave it rounded. and then tape the paper down. Do the same thing all around the area to be painted.

When you start spraying as you hold the can and start to paint, not much material should hit paper and gradually get to max material flow then have it closed again before you hit the other side, this is kind of feathering, the best I can say over the net.

Any questions let me know
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Old February 15th, 2006, 09:48 PM   #8
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Thanks very much...I'll give that technique a shot. The longer I can keep the view of the road out the windshield (and not thru the side of the body) the better.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 09:54 PM   #9
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read up on auto refinsihing, you want to featheredge the line between bare metal and paint. primer it, block sand it, and paint it. should not see any ridges that way.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 10:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
read up on auto refinsihing, you want to featheredge the line between bare metal and paint. primer it, block sand it, and paint it. should not see any ridges that way.
I think he is trying to stay away from using paint from what I can tell, so I tried to give directions to do the best with primer
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Old February 16th, 2006, 04:08 PM   #11
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I don't have a DS. I don't have info on body repair and I am not looking for perfection. Oh...and I live in an apartment and have no place "inside" to work on it. Basically, I do the best with what I have...and that isn't much. I'll see if I can borrow a DS from somebody and I'll re-rattle can it and feather the edges. Maybe I'll splurge and buy gloss black as opposed to using what paint I have on hand. But to be honest, the color doesn't matter to me.
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Old February 16th, 2006, 07:19 PM   #12
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Paint it camo....that hides a lot of shit
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