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Old February 15th, 2006, 03:50 PM   #1
mschaffer66
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Default "Super" 35 killing hubs fast

The Bubicon has a "Super" 35 in the rear, pause for laughter....

Detroit locker, 4.56's, Warn Hubs, 35's and whatever makes its it a "super" 35.

When we got the axle it was known to be freshly rebuilt with new hubs. Not more than a few days after driving it the passenger hub started going out. It wasn't an immediate break like you would expect with a hub. It would just pop in and out of engagement while driving, and pop out while making right hand turns.

I replaced the hub and the problems went away.

We did some light wheeling in the snow and after a few more weeks of driving on the road the same problems are starting again. once again on the passenger side.

Does anyone have any idea why it keeps blowing out the hub...other than the fact that the tire size is like 4" bigger than recommended. To me it doesn't seem like it should be crapping out this easy, specially with only road driving. And why is it always the passenger side? Could there be something else in the drive line that is messed up causing more stress on that lockout than the other one?

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Old February 15th, 2006, 04:04 PM   #2
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So, the rear has a FF kit? You have lockouts on the rear? And you say it keeps locking and unlocking? Are you srue you are not confusing thatwith the Detroit Locker?
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Old February 15th, 2006, 04:27 PM   #3
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Yeah its also a full floater, rear lock outs.

Pretty sure i'm not confusing it with the Detroit. I had the problem before, diagnosed it to be a bad hub, replaced the hub, problem went away, now the problem is back.

I'm 90% sure I could throw a new hub on and the problem would once again go away...i just don't want to keep putting an expensive bandaid on the problem. I guess no matter what I do to the 35 its a bandaid until i can get a better axle out back for it.

I suppose my main question is with that combo should I be blowing up hubs street driving it and not hot rodding it?
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Old February 15th, 2006, 05:08 PM   #4
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The Super 35 kit isn't a FF at least Superiors isnt, are you sure its not the Warn FF kit? Not that this helps you fix things, but I'm just confused as to what aftermarket kit you have.

Last edited by Roadhouse; February 15th, 2006 at 05:12 PM.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 05:23 PM   #5
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5 x 4.5" or 5 x 5.5" FF?
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Old February 15th, 2006, 05:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadhouse
The Super 35 kit isn't a FF at least Superiors isnt, are you sure its not the Warn FF kit? Not that this helps you fix things, but I'm just confused as to what aftermarket kit you have.
Ok, i guess I was told it was a Super 35. Apparently that was wrong. It must be the Warn FF kit. They are 27 spline hubs so i guess that would rule out the Super 35...duh.

5 on 4.5
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Old February 15th, 2006, 07:44 PM   #7
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http://www.warn.com/truck/axles/jeep...ing_axle.shtml

I think I found my problem right there in the ()'s
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Old February 15th, 2006, 08:22 PM   #8
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guess you answered your own question. the min. that i would look at upgrading is to a D44. now they have been available in TJ's for some time so it shouldn't that hard to find one at a reasonable price.

just my input.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 08:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mschaffer66
Not recommended for tires over 32")
I dont think the 3" difference is going to be that big a problem. Unless you are beating on it. Hell I run 38.5" Swampers on a D30 and it has held up.

35's should not be tearing up a warn upgrade axle kit.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 09:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Throwin Mudd
I dont think the 3" difference is going to be that big a problem. Unless you are beating on it. Hell I run 38.5" Swampers on a D30 and it has held up.

35's should not be tearing up a warn upgrade axle kit.
the hubs are out of a POS Ford Ranger. Anytime you add a Ford part to a Mopar vech you'll have problems.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 09:35 PM   #11
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Yeah I think I would have been better off keeping the stock 35 in there.

I've got 2 directions i'm looking at to replace it with something better.

Either D44 with the Super 44 ARB kit or an 8.8 and either an E-locker or ARB.

I kind of like the D44 idea, the way it looks it would be about $500 more than going with an 8.8, but you get 33 spline chromo shafts.
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Old February 15th, 2006, 10:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky
the hubs are out of a POS Ford Ranger. Anytime you add a Ford part to a Mopar vech you'll have problems.
This is the issue right here. Those are weak hubs.

Locking hubs on the rear, no matter what size, are adding another weak link.

If you are going to run a rear full floater, then run drive flanges, which, probably aren't available for that one. The Warn Dana 44 does offer the biscuits, tho...
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Old February 15th, 2006, 10:15 PM   #13
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Might also want to check the housing, if its bent, that might be loading the hub internals funny and wearing them out very fast..
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Old February 15th, 2006, 11:12 PM   #14
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Try and find flanges... those lockouts are plastic, and not even close to big enough for your tire size.
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Old February 16th, 2006, 06:23 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyevil
Try and find flanges... those lockouts are plastic, and not even close to big enough for your tire size.
Yeah thats what I am thinking too for the time being.

Thanks guys
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Old February 18th, 2006, 11:20 AM   #16
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http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...04/offroad.htm

I found this article while trying to figure out a better solution to the Ranger hubs. From the way it looks the Ranger hubs aren't the right hub to be running anyway. Warn makes a little bit beefier version of the 27 spline ranger hub for D35 applications.
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Old February 18th, 2006, 11:39 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mschaffer66
Warn makes a little bit beefier version of the 27 spline ranger hub for D35 applications.
stop polishing a turd
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Old February 18th, 2006, 06:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones
stop polishing a turd

Not really, it was more like trying to find something to put a bandaid on a problem. The turd was a free turd, a free turd that was almost new and came with a detroit and 4.56 gears already installed.

And to be honest its not a bad axle if you wanna keep the tire size down, like 33's.

Either way the axle is going to be coming out after next weekend. I'm getting an 8.8 for it.
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Old February 19th, 2006, 08:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Yeah I think I would have been better off keeping the stock 35 in there.

I've got 2 directions i'm looking at to replace it with something better.

Either D44 with the Super 44 ARB kit or an 8.8 and either an E-locker or ARB.

I kind of like the D44 idea, the way it looks it would be about $500 more than going with an 8.8, but you get 33 spline chromo shafts.
I don't weld, and aren't much of a brake guy, so I went with the S35 myself.

Having strengthened shafts (to correct the most glaring D35 shortcoming) has given some degree of greater comfort that I could make it home at the end of the day, but it's caused me another potential issue. What if I do break a specialty shaft that doesn't have spares readily available (if at all?). Some day, I'd like to upgrade the entire axle to something strong enough with stock axle shafts (i.e. 8.8 or D44) so that I could deal with breakage much easier.

I may have "polished the turd", but it was worth it for me, gaining the extra peace of mind and traction (by adding the Detroit locker, something I would not have done with stock D35 shafts). I explored numerous 8.8 / D44 options and all would've been $1000+ more than what I paid to get the D35 done along with the regearing to 4.56 (the 3.07s had to GO).
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