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Old June 19th, 2007, 08:02 AM   #1
95geo
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biggest brakes

Im building the next set of axles for the tracker, im most likely going to be running a ford high pinion 60 front and a full floating 60 rear converted to semi floating and 40 spline. i will be running a 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern and 17" wheels.

I want the biggest rotors i can fit in the wheels. I think 13" is as big as will fit. I would like to make it happen with all auto parts store parts so i can replace them easily and cheaply. i need to keep the whole thing rotors/pads/calipers under $1k otherwise there isnt really a point in doing it since i can get the blingin' spidertrax stuff for that.

so far i think i want to stick with chevy single piston calipers because its a PITA to find master cylinders that are big enough for 2 pistons and will fit the tracker booster.

does anyone know how big the dodge ram rotors are and also the ram srt-10 rotors?
suggestions
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Old June 19th, 2007, 08:36 AM   #2
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The non-SRT stuff is posted here:

http://www.misfitoffroad.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=8056
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Old June 19th, 2007, 08:54 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyJ View Post
ya, i remembered that stuff after i posted....... Im just looking for more options at this point




-------------------------------------

2001 Dodge Ram rotors are 12" and in 2002 they went to the 17" rims and 13" rotors.

The only thing that I am seeing is that the big Dodge rotors run a little thin compared to a stock chevy rotor, and even to a ford rotor which many use for 5x5.5 conversions with chevy calipers.

Too thin? I dunno. I'm running chevy K10 calipers with ford f150 rotors in the rear, and they are 0.030" under the K10 rotor discard fresh out of the box but are doing fine. I think that's what Jim is running, too.

The dodge only takes it another 0.080" for the 2003 big rotors, but is about the same as the ford for the 2001 rotors.

From Napa for 2003 Dodge 1500:
Item#: TS 48880073
Price: $32.49
Attributes:
# of Bolts:5 Bolt Circle Diameter:5.5"
Discard Thickness:1.039"
Height:2.655"
Outside Diameter:13.23"
Thickness When New:1.102
Vented / Solid:Vented

From Napa for 2001 Dodge 1500 4x4:
Item#: TS 4886917
Price: $39.99
Attributes:
# of Bolts:5 Bolt Circle Diameter:5.5"
Discard Thickness:1.118"
Height:2.885"
Outside Diameter:12.11"
Thickness When New:1.18"
Vented / Solid:Vented

And finally a 1987 Chevy K10:
Item#: TS 4885608
Price: $35.49
Attributes:
# of Bolt Holes:6 Bolt Circle Diameter:5.5"
Diameter:11 55/64"
Discard Thickness:1.215"
Height:2.304"
Outside Diameter:11.86"
Thickness When New:1.285"
Vented / Solid:Vented

Well, let's add the standard 1982 F150 4x4:
Item#: TS 4885611
Price: $31.99
Attributes:
# of Bolt Holes:5 # of Bolts:5
Diameter:11 23/32"
Discard Thickness:1.12"
Height:2.704"
Outside Diameter:11.72"
Thickness When New:1.185"
Vented / Solid:Vented
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Old June 19th, 2007, 10:48 AM   #4
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Don't want to drill 5 holes?
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Old June 19th, 2007, 12:14 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 99grandtj View Post
Don't want to drill 5 holes?
well... theres a couple reasons.

rotors cost $40.00 why put $50.00 of machine time into them if i can get exactly what i want off the shelf and at an auto parts store on the other side of the country?

have you ever tried to drill holes in brake rotors? they arent the softest material and on top of that you will most likely have to ream them because the studs press into them and the hub itself.... again, a waste of machine time.

if i were to drill holes what rotor do you suggest using?
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Old June 19th, 2007, 01:25 PM   #6
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Ok makes sense, just thought the stock rotors are pretty big, why change them.

Plus no one has trouble stopping with the stock rotors, even with 44"+ tires so 37's ain't nothing
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Old June 19th, 2007, 02:11 PM   #7
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my brakes work "good" now. when people say they work good they probably meen they have the power to stop in the distance needed, not lock them up in any situation....

im spending tons of money on new axles so im going to make sure they are exactly what i want. I have been wide open in first gear on a rock face and starting to slide back, i hit the ground with the wheels still spinning (automatic) breaking my rear axle (housing and shaft), if i could have stopped the drivetrain from spinning it wouldnt have broken anything. That is just one of many times where i wish i had the brakes to stop the drivetrain quickly.

now make the brakes wet and everyone who has "good" brakes now has horrible brakes that the engine pushes through.

your tires go up 30% in size, so should your braking ability. that isnt taking into account the added weight or whether the stock performance was up to par or not.

go test drive an H3 and you will see what good brakes feel like.
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Old June 19th, 2007, 02:21 PM   #8
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I don't drive anything gm :tonka:

Rotors only get you half way there though. Clamping force has just as much to do with it. Don't cheap out on the calipers either.

Do the 03 dodge rotors but you will most likley have to bore the center to fit the 60 hub also though.



Oh and hydroboost
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Old June 21st, 2007, 01:18 PM   #9
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well after chewing it over a bit im just going to spend the coin on these when the time comes

picture stolen from "SuperRanger" via pirate:
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Old June 21st, 2007, 01:36 PM   #10
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If you can't go much bigger on your calipers/rotors because of space, you might think about upgrading the booster/master cylinder. I kept the original brakes on my CJ, but recently bought a setup from Vanco that included their custom mounting bracket, a Chevy half-ton booster, a 1978-1982 Corvette master cylinder (huge), and their custom operating rod. The whole thing cost about $350. You might call themouth Gate, CA, at: 800-256-6295 and see if they can do anything for your vehicle.
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Old June 21st, 2007, 01:45 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by OldSailor View Post
If you can't go much bigger on your calipers/rotors because of space, you might think about upgrading the booster/master cylinder.
already done, I have a dual 1 1/16 master out of a subaru....... I should have said that up front

ill probably end up with the 4 piston 1.75" bore calipers and the 14" rotors (i need to do some math to be sure),

all 4 or just the fronts?
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Old June 21st, 2007, 02:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
all 4 or just the fronts?
Based on what you said about stopping the drivetrain asap to save axles, I would suggest all four.
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Old June 22nd, 2007, 08:13 AM   #13
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I have some C&C 14 bolt drums that I will sell for $600 each. They are really big.

Why are you taking a FF axle and making it semi-float? I have one of those semi-float 60 housings left from the ebay buy if you need a good semi-float housing.
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Old June 22nd, 2007, 08:30 AM   #14
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I have some C&C 14 bolt drums that I will sell for $600 each. They are really big.

Why are you taking a FF axle and making it semi-float? I have one of those semi-float 60 housings left from the ebay buy if you need a good semi-float housing.


i am considering it mostly because of weight, also why im going to do the spidertrax brake setup.... just a guess but im going say its about 20lbs lighter per wheel than factory style disks and calipers.

the more i think about it i might do a 35 spline SF 9" rear. thats probably about 100lbs lighter than a FF 60.
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Old June 25th, 2007, 08:45 PM   #15
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stock cobra rotors. i got them the rotors fairly cheap and the calipers cheap from a mustang site. wrong bolt pattern and probably to big rear calipers too.
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