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Old July 25th, 2007, 01:53 AM   #21
Never_Evil
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A few thoughts from me. Firing order in the correct direction, Ignition coil integrity, too much slop in the chain (crank will rock back and forth before the cam catches/distributor spins, plugs in wrong heat range/bad, plug/coil wires with too much resistance, igntion box dying. If i think of more i will put it down.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:11 AM   #22
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Just Give It To Me
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Old July 30th, 2007, 08:57 AM   #23
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Did you ever get this problem solved? I got a E150 conversion and every now and then it will do this, but not all the time. Just wondered what you found.
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Old July 30th, 2007, 09:45 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
4 things to make a motor run

Fuel - check the pressure into the carb, might have to plumb in a gauge. Also verify visually that the fuel is spraying thin (not drops) out of the carb and isn't flooding the motor. The motor will actualy idle ok a little lean, but won't idle very rich.

Spark - Timing light on the tip of each wire near the plug with show all cylinders are getting spark (timing is another issue). However a timing light on 1 cyl will show if the chain jumped.

Air- Have to assume intake is ok... anything in the exhaust that could be plugged?

Compression - run a compression test and a leakdown test.
X4398457
Perhaps swap out a duraspark box too....might not have enuf powah to ignite the spark plugs when they are in the cylinders under combustion pressures...also check to see that you have the ignition system wired properly. I saw in your above posts that you swapped out from a points system..Make sure you have 12V to the duraspark box when the key is in START. I made this mistake when I was swapping mine out - the engine would sputter when you returned the key to the run position cuz I didn't have 12VDC to the ignition box in the start position
You have eliminated all of the common problems, just smore things to check...

Last edited by Cartman; July 30th, 2007 at 09:50 AM.
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Old July 30th, 2007, 10:00 AM   #25
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but it was running really good and all of a sudden it started missing.

gotta order the accel cap and rotor, can find em around here.
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Old July 30th, 2007, 10:39 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by zjkid View Post
but it was running really good and all of a sudden it started missing.

gotta order the accel cap and rotor, can find em around here.
Normally I'd just replace the cap & rotor with one from any auto parts store..just make sure it has brass terminals NOT aluminum!
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Old July 30th, 2007, 10:39 AM   #27
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I'd say its somting electrical. Good luck with fixin it
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Old July 30th, 2007, 11:53 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjkid View Post
this thing is giving us major headaches. we put on a different carb, same result, new distributor, same, no valves stuck closed. wtf
I don't think it is fixable.............sounds really bad,...........I think you should sell it to me instead of trying to fix it.
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Old July 30th, 2007, 01:16 PM   #29
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how bout you find one exactly the same as we got that runs good and no rust. then ill give it to you.
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Old July 30th, 2007, 08:15 PM   #30
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did you check for bad valves? with a vacum gauge, Is it only missing at idle or all the time? try using a ohm meter and check all the spark plug wire resistance. If all else fails i have a ignition scope in livonia.
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Old July 30th, 2007, 09:36 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerted86 View Post
did you check for bad valves? with a vacum gauge, Is it only missing at idle or all the time? try using a ohm meter and check all the spark plug wire resistance. If all else fails i have a ignition scope in livonia.
1. did a compression test and #'s came out normal
2. missing all the time
3. ohm meter done

whats an ignition scope?
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Old July 30th, 2007, 09:41 PM   #32
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This is going to sound crazy, but my guess is that your upper timing sprocket is wore..........they use nylon around steel, and when it gets to a certain point of wear, the engine acts like it is running out of fuel or missing. (early Ford 302 issues)
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Old July 30th, 2007, 10:02 PM   #33
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tis not a nylon timing gear. it was rebuilt back in the 80's and it is metal, along with a double roller timing chain.
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Old July 31st, 2007, 03:35 AM   #34
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After reading everything again, is it running but just super poor, or is it not starting all together?

If its super poor but running, twist your distributor in either direction to get the best idle

If its not starting, your pick up coil in the distributor could have broken, vacuum advance not working properly, Oil sending unit not hooked up to ignition. Very slim chance you blew a head gasket.

Take your ignition module and ignition coil to (local auto parts store) and they should be able to test to see if its a good module or not. Check all connectors for dirt, corrosion, broken connections and good grounds.

If nothing else proves to be the problem you may need to take the intake and heads off to further explore your engine.

good luck
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Old August 6th, 2007, 05:22 PM   #35
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hook a vacum gauge to a port with un restricted vacum. Let the engine idle, See how much the needle on the gauge bounces if there is lots of movment than its a bad valve, A compression test will not always show a bad valve. The ign scope show the pattern and the kv of the spark on every cylinder letting you identify if it is mechanical or a ign problem.
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