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Old March 20th, 2006, 11:39 PM   #21
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I'm pretty sure the standard ones have 2 cylinders, never heard of a 3 cylinder one. Unless they're something totally different than what I'm thinking.
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Old April 24th, 2006, 05:29 PM   #22
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Take it from an X heavy truck mechanic. You’re on the right track but you don't need the heavy weight of the pipe. You can use plastic line for everything after the tank.
I would run one line to a manifold if you want one and then to a tank. I would then run most of the lines off the tank.
You also could, if you wanted to spend the money, feed the tank with steel breaded line. This is basically how 99% of the Semi-trucks are setup. The steel breaded line is really due to the heat.

Just thinking about weight and complexity. Also Just My Opinion
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Old April 24th, 2006, 08:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spur
Take it from an X heavy truck mechanic. You’re on the right track but you don't need the heavy weight of the pipe. You can use plastic line for everything after the tank.
I would run one line to a manifold if you want one and then to a tank. I would then run most of the lines off the tank.
You also could, if you wanted to spend the money, feed the tank with steel breaded line. This is basically how 99% of the Semi-trucks are setup. The steel breaded line is really due to the heat.

Just thinking about weight and complexity. Also Just My Opinion
What kind of plastic line? Could you get a link with pictures and connectors? Steel braided line?

I'll definately add this as an alternative. Also, could you get some pics of the semi setup? I can put them up online - Leddemo@Gmail.com
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Old May 1st, 2006, 12:44 AM   #24
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Great write up.

I'm rebuilding a 4.3l to put in the jeep and it is setup with a R4 compressor. I know nothing about this compressor. Tried googleing it for on-board air use but came up with nothing. Has anyone used this compressor for on-board air? Will it work? Will the bearings go on account of no lubrication? Since I already have the compressor and I have no other use for it in the jeep just wondering if it will work for this setup.
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Old May 1st, 2006, 12:56 AM   #25
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Very nice write up, Oh and I agree with your Ferris ideal, no on campus!
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Old May 1st, 2006, 06:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stone
Great write up.

I'm rebuilding a 4.3l to put in the jeep and it is setup with a R4 compressor. I know nothing about this compressor. Tried googleing it for on-board air use but came up with nothing. Has anyone used this compressor for on-board air? Will it work? Will the bearings go on account of no lubrication? Since I already have the compressor and I have no other use for it in the jeep just wondering if it will work for this setup.
Yup, that one will burn out. The oil travels in the freon and since there is none, there will be no oil.
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Old May 1st, 2006, 09:01 PM   #27
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Yeah, they need to have some sort of oil resevuar or tank of sorts. If you really want (I think this will work) is to find an in-line oiler thing they use for air tools that releases a meetered amount of oil into the hose so you do't have to keep re-oiling your air tools while under constant use. That might help, but I think it may only prolng the inevitable failure, I'm not sure how much oil it would require/how much oil the meter thing can supply. IF it would work like that and circulate throughout the pump. And then you would a need a hardcore seperator to get it all back out.
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Old September 18th, 2007, 10:17 AM   #28
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I'm running the Sanden from my XJ for onboard air. I cut a hole through the firewall into my glove box for the intake and ran a soft line from the compressor along the drivers side of the uni-frame (with the brake lines) to the 5lb tank in the rear of the jeep. Put a switch on the dash that engages the clutch and rely on the popit valve on the tank to relieve pressure (doesn't usually blow). Builds about 100-120lbs of pressure in about 2 minutes at 800-1000 rpm (idle). For oil I just squirt in a bit of air compressor/air tool oil every now and then into the intake line. Been running it like that for about 8 months and it hasn't burned up yet.

Last edited by MrGrey; September 18th, 2007 at 12:04 PM.
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Old September 18th, 2007, 11:02 AM   #29
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Waayyyyyy too overcomplicated, in my opinion. Just get an electric compressor designed for air suspension, found here. http://suicidedoors.com/AirManagement.php
My personal favorite is the Viair 480, for air suspension. It fills a larger tank faster, and is capable of 200 PSI. (not that anyone needs that much pressure for wheeling, unless you want to reseat a tire FAST, and possibly injure someone.)
And if you're the mischievous type, it would be fun to hook it up to a pneumatic tater cannon. :tonka:
You can get a compressor, 5 gallon tank, and all the fittings there for around $250 shipped, and there's no fabrication required. Just wire it up, plumb it, and you have onboard air that will work regardless of your engine's ability to run. (although the electric compressors use a fair amount of power, you may consider a second backup battery if you're wheeling alone)

Last edited by dngrous_Jeep; September 18th, 2007 at 11:06 AM.
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Old September 18th, 2007, 11:38 AM   #30
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it's overly complicated if you're rigging one up thats not stock. Alot of engines used these so factory brackets are out there. That means you already may have everything set to go. Custom mounting one is the hard part, converting it to air and everything else is easy.
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Old September 18th, 2007, 11:48 AM   #31
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Here is my setup. I have a tank that I carry around and a 75' air hose.



I used my factory compressor. The main thing is trying to find a water seperator that can stand the heat of the engine compartment. My bowl cracked and really reduced the amount of air reaching the tank. The highest rated filter I have seen is rated to 175 degrees, far less than the normal engine compartment.

I plan on relocating the filter to the air tank. I used a small compressor filter for the intake.

Recently though, the air filter snapped off and the main plumbing broke at a fitting.
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Old September 18th, 2007, 01:58 PM   #32
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Ill have to snap a picture of mine. I used a lawn mower air filter and a section of 1/4 inch hard air line for my intake. I just tapped the end for a bolt and drilled a bunch of holes along it's length and it works pretty well.

BTW, a one-way unloader valve before the pressure switch makes the whole shebang work better.
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Old September 18th, 2007, 02:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawierider View Post
BTW, a one-way unloader valve before the pressure switch makes the whole shebang work better.
The pressure switch that is in my pic has a built in unloader valve. It automatically vents when the swich cuts out. It has a peice of soft copper from the switch to the check valve.
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Old November 28th, 2007, 12:50 AM   #34
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Wow!!! this is a cool thread good info can you help tell me were to get pressure switches ,no one around my area knows what I'm talking about ?
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Old December 3rd, 2007, 10:21 AM   #35
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I got mine from a local hardware store. It has a threaded base on it for air fittings (pipe thread) just thread it onto a T-junction in a line and hook up your wires. Mine is a switch intended for a 120 shop comressor but it's just a glorified relay and has worked ok so far.

You can get varying pressures but I think mine comes on at 90 psi and shuts off at around 120 or so.
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Old December 10th, 2007, 06:58 AM   #36
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thanks
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