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Old May 21st, 2007, 09:48 PM   #1
Sandals
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Default Vehicle Painting......

Today I was reminded of the cheap way I painted the YJ last time. I sanded the factory clear down and spray bombed it. But 2 years in the texas sun, 3 michigan winters, and 2 illinois winters have it all peeling away back to the factory color.

My current plan is to start with a 220grit on my regular orbital sander and work my way through the old paint with different grades.

I will state, I just want this to look decent and not start to peel off. I am alll for cutting corners :)

I dont plan on sanding down to bare metal as that is overkill for a trail jeep.
I just want to get down to a decent base.

Then I'm thinking of doing a Black filler/primer and a wet sand to even it out. The body has plenty of dents, dings, crinkles etc, i'm just looking to even out scratches etc.

After the primer I think 2 color coats? or will I want more? I'm not doing clear as everytime i've clear coated something it's sucked.

Final color is going to be a metallic dark blue.

Original color is metallic forest green
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Old May 21st, 2007, 11:27 PM   #2
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You can use 80 grit on a sander to really get badly scratched areas nice and feather edged, then move out to around 320 grit over the whole body. You want nice transitional edges from bare metal to original paint. This is called featheredging. Spray an etch primer or an epoxy primer first, then a normal 2k urethane primer. Wet sand the body from about 800 grit to 1000 grit. After that, CLEAN the body well!!!!!!!!!!!!! WASH THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY with warm soapy water and rinse well. Get a product called wax and grease remover, all differnt brands have different names, but the counterman who sells your paint to you will know what you want when you tell him "wax and grease remover". Clean the body well over a few times with the wax and grease remover, wipe it on with one damp rag and wipe it off with another clean dry rag. Next you will want to blow off the surface with compressed air and use a tack rag to remove any dust particles. Spray your basecoat and clearcoat, paying CLOSE attention to recommended Paint and clear flash times (the times between spraying coats) 3-4 coats color should cover nicely. If using a heavily metallic, remember to slightly shake the gun while spraying to keep the metallics agitated. After you clear coat it (3 coats is good) keep it in lockdown and go back the next day. CLEANLINESS IS KEY TO A NICE LASTING paintjob.
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Old May 21st, 2007, 11:45 PM   #3
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I was going to give some advice but on second thought painting a Jeep is a big job. Removing trim, interior parts taping shit off not to mention the mess from over spray bugs and shit in the paint(unless you use a booth) and the cost of materials. I would expect to drop 400 or more on primer, thinner, paint, sandpaper and tape(9 bucks a roll). plus your time 30 hrs or more. I would consider taking it to Maco or somewhere cheap. jm2c
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Old May 22nd, 2007, 12:00 AM   #4
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Roller and bed liner.
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Old May 22nd, 2007, 08:48 AM   #5
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Roller and bed liner.
X2 this says your hardcore!
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Old May 22nd, 2007, 09:24 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by XJToivo View Post
You can use 80 grit on a sander to really get badly scratched areas nice and feather edged, then move out to around 320 grit over the whole body. You want nice transitional edges from bare metal to original paint. This is called featheredging. Spray an etch primer or an epoxy primer first, then a normal 2k urethane primer. Wet sand the body from about 800 grit to 1000 grit. After that, CLEAN the body well!!!!!!!!!!!!! WASH THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY with warm soapy water and rinse well. Get a product called wax and grease remover, all differnt brands have different names, but the counterman who sells your paint to you will know what you want when you tell him "wax and grease remover". Clean the body well over a few times with the wax and grease remover, wipe it on with one damp rag and wipe it off with another clean dry rag. Next you will want to blow off the surface with compressed air and use a tack rag to remove any dust particles. Spray your basecoat and clearcoat, paying CLOSE attention to recommended Paint and clear flash times (the times between spraying coats) 3-4 coats color should cover nicely. If using a heavily metallic, remember to slightly shake the gun while spraying to keep the metallics agitated. After you clear coat it (3 coats is good) keep it in lockdown and go back the next day. CLEANLINESS IS KEY TO A NICE LASTING paintjob.
Thatís the funniest thing I have read in awhile. Plus He wanted a single stage color so he does not have to clear coat it.



I would put three-four coats of this color below. The extra coats of color will help with trail scratches.

Try this for a color:

GM 1989 WA8970 DARK SAPHIRE BLUE POLY (29) #3968
http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.asp...89-gm-pg01.jpg

PPG # 3968
MATRIX # 3863
DuPont # B8706
Sherwin Williams # 35866


FYI: The colors that show on your computer screen will appear totally different than the actual color with the link I supplied. I hope this helpís; if not PM me and I can get you in the correct direction.
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Old May 22nd, 2007, 11:21 PM   #7
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I don't see it as funny?

I only went to college for 2 years so far and have a degree in auto collision repair and refinishing and worked in a high end, high production shop for a year, but I guess I don't know the FIRST thing about any auto body work at all.


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Old May 22nd, 2007, 11:51 PM   #8
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:dunie:
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Old May 23rd, 2007, 08:56 AM   #9
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I don't see it as funny?

I only went to college for 2 years so far and have a degree in auto collision repair and refinishing and worked in a high end, high production shop for a year, but I guess I don't know the FIRST thing about any auto body work at all.

Wow, Sorry to step on your toes XJ. I am also new to this automotive painting stuff. What you posted did not sound like what Sandals wanted to do.

Again if you or Sandals need some help or info PM me and I will be more than happy to assist you anyway I can.
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Old May 23rd, 2007, 04:47 PM   #10
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Bulter is the best taper at Macco has had is years . He does a great job with a roller too! Not bad for a 5th grade drop out that types better than he talks.
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Old May 23rd, 2007, 05:01 PM   #11
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Roller and bed liner.
x2

A guy on SoFo's trail clean-up Saturday had his whole Jeep Linex-ed. Looked good and heavy duty.

I had a Camaro I started refinishing. I stripped all the paint, used some PPG bare metal treatment and then went over it with PPG epoxy primer. It sat for @ 10 years like that and never started rusting anywhere. I got that advice from a street rod builder up here that won the Riddler Award a while back so I guess he knew what he was doing.
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Old May 23rd, 2007, 09:10 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by XJToivo View Post
This is called featheredging.

GET THE fukc OUT!!1

He wants to sand and spray, let me sum up what you said by "Yes sand it, but make sure it done clean."
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Old May 23rd, 2007, 10:45 PM   #13
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do it cheap with a high density foam roller, rustoelum in a couple gallons, paint thinner,.

you thin the rustoleum (or tremclad) into a nice thin paint with the thinner (pure mineral spirits). then start rolling it on your jeep. (after your perp it of course!@!!)

do the first coat and let it completely dry, then do a seceond coat. completely dry. wet sand it.

reapeat until you have even coverage and it looks good. wedsand it down. then buff it with a high speed polisher

and you just spent about 100 bucks if not less. but it takes about a week to do.

tips - do not shake the paint otherwise it will have bubbles in it.
- you must let each coat completely dry, usually about 24 hours.
- really let it dry completely this is imperitive to the finish.
- you don't "need" to primer because its rustoleum.

i have known about this paint job for a while now and i have seen some with good results. and hot rod just did an article about it which is pretty imformative.
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Old May 24th, 2007, 11:37 PM   #14
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Fuck you to those who belittle me. For those who would like to know proper info... I guess I'll just keep my info to my self, as my intellectual knowledge is not great enough for the likes of you people. Adieu.
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Old May 25th, 2007, 12:08 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by XJToivo View Post
Fuck you to those who belittle me. For those who would like to know proper info... I guess I'll just keep my info to my self, as my intellectual knowledge is not great enough for the likes of you people. Adieu.
Will you still fix my "B" post?
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Old May 25th, 2007, 12:18 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by XJToivo View Post
Fuck you to those who belittle me. For those who would like to know proper info... I guess I'll just keep my info to my self, as my intellectual knowledge is not great enough for the likes of you people. Adieu.

Is this pointed to Me? Did you not see my post from above on May 23rd, 2007 08:56 AM
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Old May 25th, 2007, 01:04 PM   #17
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Is this pointed to Me? Did you not see my post from above on May 23rd, 2007 08:56 AM
i think it was more pointed at bmf mike because he a a douche bag.
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Old May 25th, 2007, 04:05 PM   #18
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When I repainted my CJ7 from yellow to black all I did was an 80 grit sand of the entire body with my sander and then did a wet sand of 320 grit. I then scrubbed everything down with mineral spirits twice. After cleaning I rolled the rustoleum semi-gloss black on with one of those high density foam rollers, wet sanded again and rolled it again. If I remember right I did put a third coat on it. Here's a pic of what it looked like about 6 months after painting.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old May 25th, 2007, 09:37 PM   #19
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i think it was more pointed at bmf mike because he a a douche bag.
hahhahahaha, go have another cupcake, cupcake.

xj you know exactly what you are talking about, you described how to do it in a very professional, time consuming way, I just think that is the exact oppostie of what he wants :tonka:
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Old May 26th, 2007, 04:31 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by jared View Post
do it cheap with a high density foam roller, rustoelum in a couple gallons, paint thinner,.

you thin the rustoleum (or tremclad) into a nice thin paint with the thinner (pure mineral spirits). then start rolling it on your jeep. (after your perp it of course!@!!)

do the first coat and let it completely dry, then do a seceond coat. completely dry. wet sand it.

reapeat until you have even coverage and it looks good. wedsand it down. then buff it with a high speed polisher

and you just spent about 100 bucks if not less. but it takes about a week to do.

tips - do not shake the paint otherwise it will have bubbles in it.
- you must let each coat completely dry, usually about 24 hours.
- really let it dry completely this is imperitive to the finish.
- you don't "need" to primer because its rustoleum.

i have known about this paint job for a while now and i have seen some with good results. and hot rod just did an article about it which is pretty imformative.

This is how I am painting my Jeep right now. "The $50 Paint Job". I'll see if I have some pictures on my computer of my progress. The best part about it is you DON'T need to sand down to bare metal, OR prime the car at all. You don't even need to clear coat it when you are done. You sand it down with 400 grit and then get to painting. The paint self levels so there is little to NO orange peel if you spray it. If you roll it, you will have orange peel that you need to sand down before rolling on another coat.

If you are interested in doing it this way, check out these forums and look at the results. You don't have to roll it on either. I am spraying mine and it looks AWESOME. However, if you don't have the resources to spray it, rolling it on works JUST as well.

The guy who started it.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

How I found out about it. If you look through the pages, a majority of the people are getting really nice results.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555133

Last edited by Chief Brody; May 26th, 2007 at 04:39 PM.
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